steveb
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Posts posted by steveb
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I've just rewired my Eunos to use toyota COP's, changed settings to direct ignition, all 4 ignition channels are set to ignition, put appropriate dwell times in. Turned the key and it started, but only running on 1&2. Used the ignition test function and 1&2 fire fine, no life from 3&4. I checked wiring for continuity ecu plug to COP plug and all fine, checked ground and power all fine. I'm a bit stumped, it appears to be a software problem as it appears although the ecu should be firing channels 3&4 it isn't. Any suggestions? cheers Steve B
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Any ideas? Its really annoying having to route around under the dash to unplug the display every time I want to connect the laptop.
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I have just found that if I have my Link Display plugged in and try to plug my laptop in then the laptop can't find the ECU. If I unplug the Display and try again the Ecu is found all ok. Is there a solution to this, I don;t really want to be unplugging the display each time I want to make ecu changes? Thanks Steve
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I just bought a display link to plug into my G3, I want to totally remove my instrument cluster and use the diaplay instead. I've been told problem may arise with the lack of an odometer, as it maybe a requirement for MOT for a road car, I also currently have a mechanical speedo, I can get a digital sender form a later model car so getting a speed signal i've not been worried about. Is there an way a G3 + display combo can record mileage? If not do you know of a simple odometer solution? thanks Steve 1997 Mazda Eunos Turbo G3 + Link Display
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Got it working, thanks for the help. Had to reverse the LC-1 output.
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ok i'll take another look thanks.
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I can't get this working, I've moved my wideband to AN1 with voltage points reversed as (5v as voltage point 1 and 0 as voltage point 2) described (why does it need this doing?), when logging it correlates with my WB gauge so all fine. With CLL OFF the cars fine but if i enable CLL it tries to make it run too lean, I'm only allowing it 10% change from the map as its very close anyway, but for idle for example it goes straight to -10% and takes AFR to 16:1. Altering the dither voltage in the cll menu doesn't make any difference, so any suggestions? thanks Steve
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never mind, realised i need to hit enter, not click to next box
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Hi ashley, i've swaped the volt 1 to wb ~1 and volt 2 to boost adjust, selected cll, selected stoich mode and the other boxes appear. Trouble is say I enter a dither voltage (or anything else for that matter) as soon as i click out of the box it reverts to 0, it won't save any changes. cheers Steve
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I've just tried altering the settings on PC link ready to sway the wires over tomorrow and it won't let me store any changes under the CLL menu, I select stoich mode on but then can't edit anything?
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Ok, so how do I do this setup, do the LC-1 calibration the opposite way round with LM Programmer or in PC link swap voltage points A & B or both? P.S what sort of dither voltage should I give for the LC-1 being used for CLL Thanks Steve
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I have a boost adjust pot on AN Volt1 and Wide band O2 on AN Volt2 with an LC-1, I'd like to run cll but can't unless I swap boost control to AN2 and loose the Wideband input, bit of a shame really especially with the LC-1 having simulated narrow band. I'd have thought most people would expect CLL as a standard function and spare channels for other applications. I've been happy without it, but having it available but not really practical annoying. I did consider an upgrade to the PLUS, but on a 4 pot it seems overkill, benefits I can see would be sequential injection & the ability to do the above with the PLUS having 6 available inputs, but then I'd loose the on-board MAP sensor, so basically not worth it for the extra cost/ hassle involved, the ecu, fitment & an external MAP sensor being required. For a 4 cylinder car thats been converted to turbo from normally aspirated the G3 LEM is almost perfect,..
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Hi guys, I've had my car cut out twice now, once putting my foot to the floor in 5th at 60mph on smooth motorway revs build, boost build then dead - I start coasting and it cuts back in as if it never happened. Then again whilst datalogging 4th gear after flooring it through the gears sudden total loss of power and with in a fraction of a second all normal, the data log looked normal, not near any limits etc. Chatting to a friend he said hes experienced the same. Any ideas, its as if its doing a random hard cuts?
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Yep confirmed 8/95 the ECU pinouts totally changed on mx5/eunos/miatas becoming 3 plug and the 2 plugs 26pin & 22 pin that remained the wires were all jumbled up. So the Adaptalinks not so plug & play, going to have to try and compile pin diagrams and un-pick the plugs on my loom and put them all in the pre 8/95 configuration. I guess LINK wasn't aware of this, so wouldn't have an appropriate 8/95 - 12/97 1.8 Eunos pinout diagram?
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I've just been searching and found this :- http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instructions/ecu/OBD2_rewire.pdf My car has 3 connector blocks so is the OBD2 setup, is this my problem? The Adaptalink only takes 2 connectors, so are pins in the wrong place? If it is an issue I won't have fried anything other than fuses would I ?
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Ok I have a problem, on turning the key to the ON position I blow the Fuel Injection 30A fuse. I'm a bit concerned the Adaptalink isn't suitable for my September '97 1.8 JDM Eunos,..
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I was being dull, I'd only turned the key to the first position, to 2nd position the diagnostic socket gave 2 posible sources I took the brown wire.
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Stuck again, can you suggest a 12v switched supply for the boost control solinoid on the turbo side of the engine bay? The ones suggested on the mx5 clubs appear now to be dead since pluging the G3 in, I'm assuming the original middle ECU plug thats no longer used was the stock diagnostics port inputs, thats were people are suggesting I take power from.
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Thanks Ashley, yes virtually unused in the UK, I've ordered the recommended Bosch Sensor that is a push in fitting with securing bolt as the local engineering firm said they could knock a boss up for that in a few minutes. My local LINK dealer said they would have used a hella AIT sensor instead, so I thought i'd go with the recommended Bosch item intead (also cheaper) thanks Steve
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I have just come to get a boss to weld into my IC pipe for the delphi air intake sensor supplied by Link for my turbo mx5. I thought the thread looked like M16 x 1.5 mm but it isn't. Can someone tell me what thread it is? I'm suspecting 3/8" NPT (18tpi), can someone tell me if this is correct?
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Ah ok, I see. So all I have to do is take one wire from the solinoid to Aux2 pad, the other to 12V ignition for the boost control & to loose the AFM take one wire from the delphi AITsensor to Iat-ext pad & other wire to the gnd pad and move J5. thanks Steve
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I just received my G3 & plug-in adapter, all looks fine. Only question I have so far is the boost control solinoid. The G3 manual is for general wire in installation and it says:- "Auxiliary Output connects directly to one terminal on the solenoid to provide an Earth. The other terminal on the solenoid must be connected to an ignition switched (key on) 12 V source" but as I'm using the miata adapter, where do I connect to?
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So no sequential injection, not the end of the world I was hoping to run sequential to improve emmissions for the yearly tests, i'll still be putting the CAT back in then. I have spoken to someone about the injectors I have on order and he thinkes they are high impedance the same as stock injects? So I shouldn't need the ballasts. Thanks for your help I'll pace the order steve
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Ok I've found the answers :- It does have an onboard 2.5 bar absolute sensor good for me
I can get a bosch AIT sensor with it
I can get a boost control solinoid with it
I can get a adaptlink so its effectively plug and play all fantastic !
But two new questions, the Eunos uses batch injection as stock, can I convert it to sequential injection with the LEMG3?
Does it need low or high impendance injector or does it not matter?
Direct Ignition with G3 LEM - can't get 3&4 to fire?
in Link G2 G3
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I've had it suggested that the OEM Mk1 MX5 cam angle sensor triggering system is in-sufficient and I'd need a crank trigger wheel to sort this out? I notice in the G3 trigger setup page it also lists MX5 OB2, is this the mk2 setup that has an OEM trigger wheel? If so, if I bolt on the setup from the mk2 will this work?