PitBull

Yes, is there a release date Scott? And will it have a stand-alone gauge option? I do like the idea of using CAN for the lambda sensor. The AEM-X series does have that and certainly talks itself up quite a bit. Davidv: I have actually had my O2 sensor wired up on the accessory circuit so it's on even when I'm just listening to the radio. I wasn't really sure if that was the best thing for it, but over all the years it did not seem to affect it in the way yours were. However, when I wire up the new one, I will make the effort to wire it so that it's only on when the key is in the RUN position.

What is the general consensus of what controller/sensor works best with the Link? I don't want to say money is no object, but I'm prepared to spend money to get something that is going to be solidly accurate and long-term reliable. I currently have an AEM UEGO wideband gauge/controller combo which I've had for 5+ years. It has always given me a consistent, if not not totally accurate, readout on the gauge. I make this statement because for years I ran it with the stock ECU (which used the NB sensor) and the values on the gauge appeared to correspond with my expectations (i.e. 14.7-ish when in closed loop, 11.5-ish or richer when in boost at WOT). However, in trying to utilize it's 0-5v output with my Storm I get inconsistent results. First off, the calibration voltages in the AEM instructions never give me a result where the AFR readout on the Storm matches what I'm seeing on the gauge. However, even after meticulously setting the calibration table through trial and error, the readout on the Storm seems to drift vs. the AEM gauge readout. I do have the AEM gauge ground connected to the Storm's sensor ground. So my guess is that my AEM controller's 0-5v output is not stable, so I'd like to replace it. thoughts? PB

I got this all hooked up and it seems to be working as expected. I can control the Aquamist's flow by varying the Aux output's PWM duty cycle with a 3D table of RPM / MGP. I also have the Aquamist's flow meter output (0-5v) connected into an Analog input so I can monitor flow at the Link and the Aquamist's failsafe output connected to a Digital Input. What I'd like to do now is log the Aux Output's PWM duty cycle along with the Analog Input of the flow so I can see the relationship of dutycycle vs. flow. Howver, I can't find a way to graph the Aux Output PWM DC. Can anyone point me to what parameter will display the Auxiliary Output's current PWM DC?

Thanks, yes this is what I'm hearing from multiple sources so I'll try it this way and let you know how it works out...

Simon, Just to clarify -- I don't want the Aquamist to use the engine's fuel injectors as it's Injector Duty Cycle reference. I want the Link ECU to be able to provide that PWM signal to the Aquamist control unit from an Auxiliary output totally independent from the fuel injection. What I was trying to determine though is if the Aquamist needs its (+) wire (that is supposed to go the + on the injector) actually connected to the injector 12v. Or if I can just connect it to a switched 12v source... I posed this question on the Aquamist forum and I did get a response. It said: You just need to send the PWM signal to the green wire of the grey harness. No need to use the green harness. Set the THRES to minimum (fully CCW). Ideal PWM frequency: ~30Hz. The red wire goes to a switched 12V source, active at the pre-crank or run key position.

I have a Storm G4+ but not the "black" version. The factory wiring diagram shows the injectors are connected to the ECU on one side and a "EFI resistor" on the other side and then to the "Ignition Main Relay" However, I have a JDM engine swap so I'm not sure that the factory wiring diagram is going to be accurate. I don't know if it helps you, but the engine is a 3SGTE from a Toyota Caldina. The swap originally used the factory ECU but I now have the Link which I purchased from a vendor that sells it with a custom "plug and play" harness. I'll pull the tune off my laptop later today and send it over. Thank you greatly!

I have a Link G4+ Storm currently driving a 4-cylinder so each of the ECU's fuel injector outputs are driving a fuel injector. As for how well I want to control it....I want to control it with as much accuracy as possible as I plan to cut back on the gas as I add methanol so I want it to be pretty consistent. Are you saying that I should connect the Red(+) wire on the Aquamist gray connector to one of the fuel injector's +12v wire and the Green(-) wire from the Aquamist's gray connector to the Aux output on the Link? Would I not want to just connect the Aquamist (+) to the 12v out on Link?

I figured it might help if I provided a clip from the install manual. Note there are actually two ways to connect the Aquamist to an injector. There's a + and - that connects to a "conventional" injector and another set of + and - that says to connect to "peak and hold" or Di injectors. I'm not sure which set of wires would be preferred to connect to the Link Aux output for control by PWM.

I have an Aquamist HSF4 kit water/meth kit. The expected method of connecting the HSF4 controller is to tap one of the fuel injectors so that it can determine it's water/meth duty cycle based off the fuel injector pulses. However, I would prefer to connect the Aquamist controller to a link Aux Output so that I can control it's DC independent of the fuel injector DC (using PWM and a 3D table). Does anyone have experience having done this? I am not sure on the wiring, but I'm thinking I'd just connect the Aquamist's wires (which are supposed to connect parallel to the fuel injector wires) directly to the link. The + going to the Aux output and the - going to ground? Or would the + go to 12v out and - goes the Aux output? Thanks!

Thank you for the response. Would the pull-up resistor be wired as described in this section of the help file? "Volt channels can be also be used to read the temperature from a Negative Temperature Co-efficient (NTC) temperature sensor. An external 1K pull-up resistor must be connected the ECUs voltage input pin and 5V. " Below the text is a diagram of the wiring where it shows the one side of the gauge grounded, the other side connected to the AnVolt and a 1k resistor connecting the AnVolt to the +5v output. I'm assuming this is correct but just want to double-check with you. Thanks PB

I have a fuel pressure sensor that came with a Prosport Performance gauge and I'd like to connect it to my Storm, but I'm not sure how to wire it up. The sensor has two connections which are labeled as: "Ground" and "Gauge". This has me confused because in the help file it says that pressure gauges get connected with 3 wires: ground, +5v, and signal Would the Ground go to sensor ground and Gauge go to an AnVolt pin and then set Input Units to "Ohm"? Or will this sensor not work for me? I found a data sheet on the sensor and it looks like the one that's described as "Floating Ground" if that helps... Thanks

I figured I'd post an update to this problem: Since I updated to the latest PC Link software version as of a few weeks ago, I have not had a single crash when going from AC to battery or vice versa...

Awesome...thanks!!!

Could there be the possibility to change the limit value from kPa to psi when the units are set to Imperial? It's impossible to view a graph of MAP vs MAP limit values when one is in PSI and the other is in kPa. Thank you PB

Ah ok. Is the fix to the PC software or ECU firmware (or both?) and will it be available immediately or with the next update? Can you comment on my other question regarding the MAP limit (status) parameter? Thanks! PB

When I have the MAP Limit set for a 2D table, values in the cells are displayed as either PSI or kPa (depending on the Units setting). However, when I switch it to a 3D table, I can only change the cell values in increments of 5 and the values displayed does not change regardless of whether or not I select Metric or Imperial, so I'm not exactly sure what the values in the cell are representing (PSI or kPa). Is something wrong with this? Regarding the MAP limit (status) parameter: I I know it can be either 0 or 1. But, does it go to 1 as soon as any amount of cut happens, or does it go to 1 when 100% cut is hit? Thank you PB

Unfortunately still seems to crash sometimes, but I've gotten into the habit of saving tune and logs prior to key off

I found settings referring to USB in the power settings so I disabled both. I should know within a couple days if it made a difference. Thanks!

I have PCLink running on my laptop. I can run it off batteries or with the AC supply plugged in. Either way is fine and perfectly stable. However, if I plug in or unplug the AC supply while PCLink is running, sometimes it will crash. It doesn't happen every time and I haven't been able to consistently reproduce the problem. Though it seems to happen when I least want it to (like after I've logged a good run and I forget to save it before disconnecting the power source) Any ideas why this is happening?

Thanks for the info. Scouring back through the manuals I see now where that is indicated. What "MAP Sensor type" should be selected when using the internal MAP sensor?

Currently my Storm is set to get it's MAP reading from AN Volt1 but I'd like to utilize the internal MAP sensor. Could you point me to where I make this switch in PCLink? Thanks