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CCS

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Posts posted by CCS

  1. It took me a long while to get my idle on previous setup good and everything went down the drain because I needed to rebuild my engine and has the setup changed. Now I have to go through this process again and I hope to achieve prefect idling again and I hope to find an ultimate guide so it won't take forever.

    It took me long a time because I am not pro, I don't drive the car frequently and I don't have the opportunity to play with it frequently so its hard to retain the experience and knowledge gained. Here are some of the guiding principles and sequence I use, please free feel to comment or correct. For Open Loop.

    General

    • Stable Voltage helps with getting stable idle
    • Start with getting idle good at normal operating temp 80-110c.
    • Start with no auxiliary load, example AC off.
    • Start with no Trims
    • Start with no Idle-Up
    • Don't use vary E-Throttle Target for catching idle, Throttle plate won't move quick enough.

    Sequence

    1. Make the car idle without Idle Ign Control. Use Idle Base Position Table or use E-Throttle 1 Target? Get to a stage where the hunting is minimal.
    2. Set Idle Target, start with higher Idle Target so at least car idles. Table's value should drop as car warms up. Example: 1300rpm to 1100rpm.
    3. Turn on Idle Ign Control
    4. Smooth out ign within Main Ign and Idle Ign Table and the transition between Main and Idle Ign table.
    5. Engine generally idles better when richer. Smooth out Fuel Table.
    6. Try to achieve lower Ign at Idle Target, this is so that you have headroom for more power if needed
    7. Adjust Lockout values in Idle Speed Control and Idle Ignition Control
    8. Setup Idle-Up Tables.

    I can get the car to idle and non hunting idle pretty much. My main challenge is getting it to idle at the lowest reliable rpm and lowest ign so driver won't feel nervous all the time. AND not stall, hunt or undershoot and bounce. Specifically, I always have problem with rpm decel undershoot whenever when car is stationary and me stabbing the pedal or when at a decel speed coming to a stop abruptly, the tune catches gentle decel well but not abrupt and sudden decel.

    Lastly, ref to point 3 above, which is the correct way to idle the car? Use only Idle Base Position or only E-Throttle 1 Target or both together?

    Sharing of any guiding principles for Lockout values will also be helpful. I know help files have some.

    Thanks in adv.

  2. I am running ViPEC i88 for many years now. Going thru the specs I still it is fairly relevant. Should I upgrade? Especially considering that I might lose some channels if I go G4X? I am interested in the faster processor and especially when i88 is so old but I don't know it is worth the effort and how much material difference will it make?

    image.png.171546d60954a4496d197f6786266a5b.png

  3. I am deleting my OEM belt driven water pump and Thermostats, replacing it with EWP150 Electric Water Pump soon and like to seek advise on how you would run yours? Using which function. This car is 70% track, 30% road use.

    Should I use one of the Aux channel to run PWM? Is it necessarily?

    Or should I use GP Output? But, how do I overcome the issue of it switching on/off when the temp is at switch over point? Using Timer?

     

  4. With ref to below from help file. I am allowed to use 5 and 6 for my Wheel Speed. Is the help file wrong?

    ·Only Digital Inputs 1 to 4 can be used to measure engine position (used only for VVT Control).
    ·Digital Inputs 1 to 6 can be used for frequency measurement (eg speed signals).
    ·Digital Inputs 1 to 8 can be used for edge detection (eg Gear cut control clutch switch).
    ·All digital inputs can be used for general purpose switching signals (eg A/C request).

     

     

    ·LF Wheel Speed - (DI1 to DI6 only) Hall and reluctor wheel speed signals
    ·LR Wheel Speed - (DI1 to DI6 only) Hall and reluctor wheel speed signals
     
    ·RF Wheel Speed - (DI1 to DI6 only) Hall and reluctor wheel speed signals
    ·RR Wheel Speed - (DI1 to DI6 only) Hall and reluctor wheel speed signals

     

  5. I have a 2ZZ-GE with DBW throttle. Recently built an engine with stage 3 cams. I need some help with getting better idling.

    Basically, with ISC running Closed Loop E Throttle and Idle Ignition Control set, I am able to get reasonable idling, except Idle Base Position being a bit high, suspect it is due to my cams. However, I have this problem where the rpm will drop to stall when I shut the throttle quickly. In other situations where I let it gently drop it will catch idle well and goes to the target rpm.

    Some pointers on where to look will be great.

     

    idle.thumb.GIF.bb20a8eaa1b777a38b053147a

  6. In case anyone is trying to do the same or something similar. AiM released a new feature. Now you can build your own CAN message.

    CAN DRIVER BUILDER The CAN Driver Builder is a utility included in RaceStudio3, intended for developing a software driver capable to read a CAN datastream coming from an ECU or a different device. The driver produced can be used on one of the following devices: MXG, MXS, MXL2, EVO4S, EVO5.

    http://www.aim-sportline.com/download/software/doc/CANDriverBuilder_100_eng.pdf

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