v8bloke
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Posts posted by v8bloke
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Thanks for the reply, Yes already checked supply to injectors and all good. Using Range Rover P38 coils, an ignition amplifier.
Was working fine last time out in 2019. since then I have changed both Trigger1 and trigger 2 setups. when cranking the ECU is seeing both. Could this be a problem within the ECU?
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I had my Extreme ECU installed by a dealer a few years before Covid and it seemed to work OK not had it running since. When I looked closely at the wiring it is very below standard so I have been trying to rectify.
The ignition powers a relay that supplies ECU 14v.
Aux1 test (on) powers a relay that feeds injectors and ignition.
Aux5 powers the fuel pump relay.
I have checked all grounds and other wiring and seem to be as link wiring instructions.
Tried to do an Injector and ignition test today but neither worked.
Settings seem to be ok where do I start looking?
Many thanks
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Thank you, very helpful.
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For trigger 1 I'm using a 36-1 Crank setup and trigger 2 I've just fitted a single lobe cam wheel with hall sensor. I am ok with wiring and the hardware but how do I calibrate the sensors position in the 720 degree engine cycle. G4 Extreme ECU. Many thanks
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I think i have found the problem. The battery! I took the sparkplugs out and with the engine cranking faster both triggers turned green.
Will try a new battery.
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OK, the continuity test was good for both crank and cam. The ECU has power (blue light on). When cranking trigger 1 and 2 in runtime values say NO. I have changed the crank sensor but still nothing. This engine was running fine last year so what could have changed.
Would be very grateful for any advice on this and maybe what to try next.
Thanks
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Thanks will try this at the weekend. cheers
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Hello chaps, I'm in need of some help please. Engine Rover v8 G4+ extreme. Engine has previously been running well. I fitted a dry sump system which meant moving the crank sensor slightly. I managed to adjust the settings accordingly and got the engine started and all good. car was left for about 10 months and now wont start. runtime values/triggers say NO Triggers 1 and 2 when cranking. tried to do a trigger scope but nothing. I have checked wiring and cant see anything amiss. the only thing that I have done since the engine started is fit an electronic speedo but cant see that being the problem. copy of the map attached.
Many thanks
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OK Thanks ill give it a try.
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Sorry for the newbie question.
After removing and refitting my trigger wheel due to new dry sump pulley installation I seem to have re assembled in a slightly different place.
I'm trying to alter my base timing but the existing settings are locked and wont unlock. Always goes back to previous setting.
Ca you please tell me how to unlock these settings.
Thanks
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Fantastic, thank you. Firmware now updated and switch now set to toggle.
Thanks
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Yes DI3 and DI4 switch to ground. In runtime values DI3 is set to Traction disable switch. When DI 3 is earthed it shows as active for about a second then turns off. I have tried another switch but still same. Both DI3 and DI4 are earthed at the same point.
have attached map.
Thank you.
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Thanks,
I have it all wired up.
Front Wheel speed is DI1 Rear is DI2, Traction disable switch is DI3 and to switch between traction table 1 and 2 is DI4.
looking at the runtime data spinning the wheels DI1 and 2 show as being active. switching DI4 to earth shows the switch as active but DI3 The traction disable switch only shows to be briefly active then goes back to off is this correct?
I would have thought that DI3 would remain active until switched back?
Thanks for the help.
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I find my track car runs slightly rich when driven on the road is it possible to have the closed loop function operated by a switch on the dash. If so how would I go about setting it up. Thanks
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Thanks,
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In the past I have paid for my Extreme ECU to be fitted and have been disappointed in the quality of the work so I would like to do this myself.
I am not very confident when it comes to wiring so please excuse the basic questions.
Fitted KA SP08-NPN-25-100-100 hall effect sensors. do these have to be connected to sensor ground or just normal earth? Pullup resistor set to OFF? Active edge rising or falling?
Using DI 1 for LF wheel speed and DI 2 for RR wheel speed. I'm OK with the calibration.
DI 3 is set to Traction disable switch. Pullup resistor ON? on level set to LOW? Rocker switch wired to normal ground.
Am I right in thinking that if I enable table 2 the Disable switch will switch between the two tables?
Looking forward to trying this out.
Thanks.
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Great Thanks.
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I have made the front trigger wheel with 12 teeth and really please with results. Moving on to the rear and things aren't as simple. My easiest (possibly only) option is to use the 6 bolts that attach the disc. will this work?
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks, no doubt I will have more questions as I proceed.
Cheers
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I would like to fit traction control to my 5.0L MGB. ECU is Link G4+Extreme.
Planning to have some trigger wheels made, is there an optimum number of teeth that I should use.
Thanks.
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Rev limiter
in G4+
My G4 extreme, the limiter is too harsh seems to cut fully. Could someone please have a look and suggest alterations to my setup. Normally asperated v8 5.0 in a light car.
Thanks
Mark
Injector and Ignition test not working
in G4+
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OK Injectors have 11.8v, when i touched the pin to earth with ignition on there was no click, nothing happened? I extended the wire and touched the block and still nothing! How is that possible? block has good ground, new battery and cables.