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Hi there. I have made a video with me speaking in it as this is easier for me to communicate. I just watched the videos. I set it on 500 mbit and 1mb speed and neither worked. Video part one with key on and engine not running: Video part two with key on and engine running: Here is todays log file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/114o_Oyq0JKOmm9_u3AmDZ-gLUhOTPBv_/view?usp=sharing Here is todays tune file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1i-WUxILxtm1EgrcVMGbvqVwhqlH5EN03/view?usp=sharing Kind Regards Rex 0220 435 947

Hi there. I have a brand new link can lambda. I updated my Link G4+Blue Storm to the latest firmware. Then the can lambda connected according the to settings on the leaflet in the box. My issue is the can lambda will not stay connected. I double checked all the wiring. I can be sitting there with the key on and go to the place in PC Link where the button says search for can device. It finds nothing even though the setting are correct. If i reach under the bonnet and unplug the 4 wire deutz connector and plug it in again then it finds the device sometimes. I only have the one Can Device (no dash can devices) so the high and low wires go from the Link Ecu round connector straight to the deutz 4 pic connector. High and Low on one side of the connector and 12v and ground on the other. I have the 12v coming from a dedicated relay which latches when the key comes on. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need a resistor somewhere? What can I do to keep the can lambda connected? Here is a google drive link with some tune files in and also some log files in. I hope this helps you see it cutting out. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pp4wM4pFTMkU1Yl46146KXpDlvy9JF8r?usp=sharing Kind Regards. Rex PS the idle adjustments that you helped me with Adam work a treat. Thanks.

When I start my engine the ISC does not work for 2 or 3 seconds. Shortly there after it can be heard buzzing and it works well. When I bring up the runtime values under the idle speed section for those 2 or 3 seconds it reads "hold startup". (This is best scene in the included video below.) How do I get this to stop pausing or holding the ISC from working for the first 3 seconds? I would like to reach in start the engine without touching the throttle. I have included these files to help: A video of the ISC and engine running: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wyTpuCvPeLZkuJpm6 A link to download the logfile i made: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y12jSkMNcKiNwPSdbt2GdPzCgSbWe9bY/view?usp=sharing A link to the current tune file I am running: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cmSzE6f5nUXg-TsbjhOMKHG7qOVtXU7k/view?usp=sharing A link to a picture of the 2 wire ISC valve I am running: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DlnouyxJvGlbLyHOaxxV-JoD8hqbPcvP/view?usp=sharing A picture of the kit car: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N85LZAGclyNySr2wy_qg_q-8S_eLtLU_/view?usp=sharing Thanks for your help. Rex The engine is a 3sge 5th gen beams, ecu is a Link G4+ blue Storm. The ISC is a 2 wire ford unit of a modeo.

Hi Adam. You were on the money. We had a broken wire going to the pin 5 the main 12v into the ecu. So happy to have fixed that. Thankyou!

Hi there. Today I fitted a 2 wire idle solenoid. See this home made diagram for how I wired it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/tdKZiHYr5ULXunk99 I wired it to AUX 3. When I started the engine the voltage reads 20v or more and is in red. If I rev the engine it cuts out and I get a fault code over voltage. When I put a digital multimeter on the battery when the engine is running and reving it never exceeds14.5V I can hear the isc solenoid working. I can change its buzzing frequency by changing the HZ rating on Aux3. Why is the ecu getting an over voltage warning? Here is my base map file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fdBHZ_bsjZiL7_IMMZSvGYMOzxKqApBj/view?usp=sharing The ecu is a Link G4+ Blue storm. Thanks Rex

Can I convert my Modeled tune to a Tradition tune just by toggling it in the settings? The engine is a 3sge 5th generation beams and the ecu is a G4+ blue storm. I ask the question as I have the car somewhat road tuned already after some hours of using my can lambda and the autotune function but am now thinking of going to a tradition style setup. Will the tune carry over if i change it in the settings to Traditional? Or do I need to start again? I heard that maybe I could speak nicely to link and they may be able to convert the file? Any thoughts on this?

I am trying to wire a two wire donut style (subaru) knock sensor to the G4+ Storm Blue stand alone ECU. I need help working out where the two wires from the knock sensor go. My engine is a 3sge 5th generation beams with VVT on intake and exhaust. I have the VVT intake position sensor on Digital input 1 and I have the VVT exhaust position sensor on Digital input 2. Where do i wire the knock sensor to? Does this ecu support knock detection? I don't have air conditioning or vehicle speed sensor (at this stage). Thanks for your help.

The link can lambda i installed today reads in lambda scale. Is that because I am using a modeled fuel table and not a traditional fuel table? Can I have it reading in the old scale 14.7 ... in the modeled fuel mode? I can just understand the gauge better. Second question is why does the lambda gauge fluctuate so much at idle? It swings back and forward. The third question is when looking at the logging the internal map has a spike up and down every few seconds like a cardeo graph at a hospital. Why are the spikes there. I am using the internal map sensor on the Link G4+Storm Blue.

Ok. 15mins later I reversed all the wires from top to bottom. Boom! it worked. I had the ground and 5v inverted and the idle and signal inverted. Great to have a win.

I have wired my tps and calibrated it. Tps voltage is high at closed throttle and then low at wot. It seems backwards. For example when I press F12 for runtime values with the throttle closed I get 2.56v and as I bring it to wot the voltage decreases. It is a four pin tps off a Toyota Altezza. Pin 1 on one end is sensor ground. Pin 4 on the far end I gave 5v from the ecu bottom row 3rd in from the right. Pin 4 I wired to the AN Volt 2. I upgraded the Link G4+storm blue to the latest firmware today. Maybe it need to configure something. Why does it seem backwards. I would expect low voltage at idle and close to 5v at wot?

Hi there. We have a Link G4+ Storm Blue wire in ecu. It is connected to to a Toyota Altezza 3sge 4 cylinder beams (in a Lotus 7 replica) on the oem crank angle sensor and the intake and exhaust cam angle sensor. The spark is extremely intermittent. We believe this is tied to an incorrectly configured trigger setup or potentially a faulty sensor. We have included an image of a scope showing trig 1 and 2. Trig 1 is crank, 2 is intake cam and di1 is exhaust cam. We have tested a wide range of trigger settings and at one point had it running on the Toyota 3sge profile but only for a short time. (the timing when checked with a light was perfect on the 3sge profile). Currently the spark fires very occasionally (every 3 revs or so but at the correct timing) and the detected RPM jumps all over the place although sometimes is holds a fairly consistent rpm of around 250. Could someone please have a look at the attached trigger scope and let us know if this is looking correct for a 36-2 stock 3sge timing ring. We have tried inverting it by swapping the wires and it didn't make too much of a difference except for being obviously inverted in the scope. 90% of the time it is super inconsistent but occasionally it seems to somewhat work allowing us to run the engine. This has us considering potentially a faulty sensor or wiring too close to potential interference sources? How do we calibrate/setup the correct offset (if required) between the crank and cams? Whats the minimum battery voltage before it will start to cause issues? Here is a link to a high resolution file: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2gaDSsJdY9M4PKML6 Thanks, Rex.

I have another question. I just wanted to take time to thank you for your volunteer labour. You are appreciated. Have a look at the below picture. It is a 3sge single wire knock sensor. I understand it get its ground by being screwed into the block. I understand the shield goes to the "A7" Where does the single wire go to? Do I Understand correctly that I connect the exhaust cam sensor to DI1? Would I be right in thinking I connect the knock single wire to AN1 as I am using the onboard MAP? Or does it go to a DL2 Knock sensor pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/bYTBRcSuePpugSNF6 Aux assigned to pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AjvQkq4ZWK7eLjju7 AN assigned to pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9pQWXGhTyefbetTaA ECU is a Link g4+ storm blue with a single A plug. Thanks again.

My car will have a non E throttle. I am wiring up my Toyota Throttle Position Sensor. It has 4 pins on it. Where does pin 2 on the below TPS which is labeled "Idle switch signal" go? I have the 5v and tps signal and ground connected. https://photos.app.goo.gl/KmCjjWMQLh7NipaV8 2nd question: What is the difference between "TP Main", "TP sub" and AP?

The engine is a 3sge beams out of a Altezza going in a Lotus 7 style car with a Link G4+ Storm blue. It will run Naturally Aspirated and in stock form with a single mechanical throttle body. I will run all the oem stock sensors I can use that came on the engine. I also purchased a Link Can Lambda. I think the diagram below is going to help. Here are my questions I have just to confirm what I have read in the manual: Does the the crank angle sensor go on trigger 1? Does the Cam angle sensor go on trigger 2? The engine has two cam angle sensors one on the intake and one on the exhaust because it has vvt on both intake and exhaust. Which cam angle sensor do i connect? Do I connect both? Do I need two? Without two how does the ecu know how advanced or retarded either cam shaft is? The crank angle sensor has two wires on it and a shield. Do I put one wire to Trigger 1 in the diagram below? Where does the other wire go to? Where does the shield connect to? When this engine is in the Altezza it runs a Mass Air Flow sensor. Can this be wired in to the Link or should I use the map that is onboard the Storm ECU? Does Link support Mass Air Flow sensors or just map? When I suck on the onboard map it shows no rise and fall. I have only done this statically on the test bench with the ecu live to my laptop and without the crank trigger turning. How do i configure the software to connect to the onboard map? I have used the Link supplies base map for the sxe10 Altezza and because I am not running Electric throttle body in the top right corner of PC Link there is an error saying the rpm has been limited to 1800rpm as there is a error concerning unmatched voltages of the throttle and the pedal. How do i configure the software to look for one single throttle body and one normal TPS to get rid of this error? Why are there two ground pins on the diagram below? I think they need to go on separate wires to a good clean earth on the cylinder head. But why two? When wiring injectors do I understand they get 12v straight to then from a relay and the ecu grounds them? Do I put inj 1 to cyl 1 and inj 2 to cly 2 and so on or do I use the 1342 firing order when connecting the injectors? With the ignition coils on plug do i connect hen ign 1 to cy1 and so on or in firing order? I have the whole setup in a suitcase with a battery drill spinning the trigger wheel. I will take it with me to Taupo for Christmas today. I really appreciate any of the knowledge you guys can share with me. Thanks Rex

Thanks for the reply. What I really was looking for is a colorful line style drawing to lift some of the confusion of fi ding where things go.

Does anyone have a picture of how to wire up link g4+ storm blue? I have the link install guide. What I want is a picture that I can run my eye down the lines to the sensors like ect and tps and cam and crank ect. It's going on a 3sge beams without the electric throttle body. My Ecu only has an "A" plug. Kind regards.

Thanks heaps.

Adam could I buy this and do the same job and not spend 550.00 on the link canbus o2. Does it just connect to a bosch 4.9. Can I then feed an analog signal into the g4+storm blue? Or is this a bad road and should I just go the canbus way. What dumb guage connects to the canbus o2?

Hi all. I am looking at purchasing this Aem guage for $100 and I have a question. If I purchase a Link Canbus 02 and connect it to my Link G4+ Storm Blue will it be compatible as a guage to display the air fuel ratio on the cars dash?

Hi. Can I run this Aem air fuel guage and link g4+ storm blue together. The guy says it supports a bosch 4.9 sensor. Can I take a feed off the back off the back of this setup and give the link a 02 wideband feed that is not canbus? Will it work. Does it go into a analog input on the link. This guage is 150.00 and I need to buy a 4.9 sensor to go with it. I see these on aliexpress for around 150. His reason for selling is that he is going to a digital dash.

Hi all. I'm looking to buy a canbus link wideband and 4.9 sensor. My Cel is 0220 435 947. Kind regards

Hi all. Does a older Link g4+storm blue do a Modeled Volumetric Efficiency tune? Or does it only do the conventional table style tune?

Does anyone have a spare Link Ecu to USB cable for tuning they want to sell? My Ecu is Link G4+ storm blue. I am based in Inglewood Taranaki.

Will the OEM crank and cam angle sensors on a Toyota 3sge beams engine work well with a Link g4+ storm blue Ecu or do I need to run a toothless wheel setup off the front of the crank damper. The blue Ecu I have has only an "A" 34 pin connector.

Good morning. Can a Knock Link device as shown in the picture be connected to a and Link g4+storm blue. The blue Ecu I have has only an "A" 34 pin connector. Why would I use it. Would it connect to a 3sge beams open knock sensor?