[Aux output LED warning light "leaking" ground]

Option-4
connect the led to the relay and trigger the relay with aux.I did so

[Buzzer connection wiring...]

Hi all
this device hooked up from inj6 aux. Works well, comes into play where I want. But there is noise , for example, it makes noise with the wiper switch. Is this because of inj aux?

I had previously tried with aux 5-6. At that time there was a slight noise as long as the ecu was open.

Is there a way to clear this noise? I need your help with this.

Thanks.

[Buzzer connection wiring...]

Thanks.

[Buzzer connection wiring...]

Hi
As I mentioned, I have a 6-32v buzzer.I want to connect it to one of the aux outputs and use it as a warning for shift light and low pressure.
The help file has confused me.
With GP Output If I connect the positive end to the ignition and connect the ground end to the AUX inj6, would it be right?

[Ecu crash car stop...]

I finally solved the problem.My vehicle has no problem with grounding.Everything and all these problems are due to the fact that the spark plugs are not resistor.I've installed the resistor spark plug everything has improved.
Thank you to everyone for help.

[Ecu crash car stop...]

15 hours ago, Gregconboy158 said:

A main problem is you've used ground for coils from the thermostat housing. Change this to one of the dizzy bolts or end cap bolt next to the dizzy. 

 

What are you using for crank and cam sensors too? I see no dizzy on there and also no cam sensor bracket/wiring 

 

As Adam has said too, you've got the ground in the wrong place. It should be on the threaded part next to where it is. You're doing nothing where it is right now because of the rubber. 

I was using the hondata cpr before I started using link ecu. And in his installation, he said that the coil should be grounded from the thermostat housing.Maybe the wrong place but i had to comply.I'm gonna try to ground it from where you said it.

I replaced the crankshaft sensor with b18c1 oem. This mounted on a crankshaft pulley. I use holley (554-125) with fly magnet on cam sensor.

you're wrong about grounding there because that bolt is directly in contact with the engine block.I added a picture there.

Thanks.

8 hours ago, Richard Hill said:

A simple, tried and trusted solution for earths is :-

main engine strap goes from chassis to engine block (normally one of the engine mount points) 

Coil on plug earth goes from head to a splice to each coil on plug ground ( I usually use an inlet manifold bolt as this does create a very low resistance path to the spark plug earth strap.

  

I'm gonna try to ground it from where you said it.Thanks.

 

5 hours ago, cj said:

Its not quite as bad as that, there is still a 6 or 8mm thick bolt/stud underneath that nut which has its other end in the head, so there is a reasonable path to ground through this. 

 It would still be preferable to ground it to the block directly as you don't know how much contact that stud has with the block or what its made of. What I've done in situations like this is make a second new cable with rings on both ends, and sandwich one end under that factory ground location, and the other end to a better location on the block - any of the block side engine mount bolts is usually good.

 If you wanted to be scientific about it, put your multimeter on volts (or use a scope if you have one), connect one end to the engine block and the other end to that that nut on the top of the cam cover, and see  if you register any voltage differential when the engine is running. Repeat the same test between the battery negative terminal and the block, and a third time between the block and the ground pin on each of your coils (you'll need to back probe the connector as it must be running as normal). This will definitively tell you if you have coil grounding issues. If you run the same test from the engine block to the ground pins on the ECU you can also verify that the ECU is seeing good ground / not overloading the ground wires too.

I'm gonna try this.
Especially with a voltmeter.
thank you for your description.

 

2 hours ago, Adamw said:

Can you just move the ground strap to one of these two bolts?



Of course.I will do this.I will try.
Im sorry I could write because of the time difference.
I'll let you know I'll try them all.
Thanks.

[Ecu crash car stop...]

I have grounded the coils directly through the thermostat.The coils are powered by the ign output on the distributor socket. 
Actually  I always suspected the power there.I'm going to check the power there.
We have discussed a lot with friends about the main motor grounding strap, but the factory has done it like this.
Also, the bolt to which the earthing is connected goes to the engine block.I added a pic.The service manual says it should be where it should be.
I'il make a general check and let you know.Thanks.

 

[Ecu crash car stop...]

Recently I connected 4-5 analog and aux equipments.I suspected them, but I canceled the connection from all of them , but I did not make a change from pclink.Could it be software source?

I have a question.
If I want to get a log, will it be saved when the ECU closes?

[Ecu crash car stop...]

58 minutes ago, Adamw said:

I havent seen this before so I have asked engineering if they have any thoughts, I probably wont have any info from them until tomorrow..

What does it have for an ignition system?  Have you only had this happen when the laptop is connected?  How regularly does it happen?

Hi Adamw
I am using carpc. This morning I closed the pc and tried it again, it was again. Doing even when not connected to any pc.
I use the honda (k20) coil in the ignition system.I didn't get over 6000 rpm for about 30km this morning , it stops the engine every time.

[Ecu crash car stop...]

Hello everyone
I have my ek civic turbo and I bought CIVICLINK (98) - # HC96 +.plugIn ecu...
There is an interesting problem for about 6 months.I'm going on the road , when I want to speed up (5500-6000 rpm), ecu is disconnected and crash. Ign off-on is running after the engine again.I am getting the error messages as in the picture below.
I saw the same problem here another title it was written about there are aux inputs. I removed all the equipment in the external aux input. I suspect the PC is connected i'll try this without pc connection in the evening.
I did the latest version update the problem did not improve.
I need your help with this problem.
Thanks.

[Engine won't start , no rpm , no trig2 signal]

Some of my friends said the signal might be noise.
is there so much noise in the picture?

[Engine won't start , no rpm , no trig2 signal]

trig1 error has repeated the problem.
I bought a new sensor because I thought it was due to the sensor (cherry gs100502), this sensor did not make as much error as the other.
occasionally, I get 2-4 trig1 error (with boost) like 5000rpm , It does not do after 5000 rpm.

I am adding the pclr file , would you please check?

The first starter is working late too , what is the reason of this?
Thanks!

cherry ferrıos.pclr

[Engine won't start , no rpm , no trig2 signal]

I connected the cam sensor to tdc +.The problem is caused by this. There's no problem connecting to CYP-
thanks everyone

 

[Engine won't start , no rpm , no trig2 signal]

Hi all
(I apologize for my good english ability.)
Ecu: g4+ civiclink 96-98

Engine: b18c car obd2b
I'm trying to cancel the distributor , I bought a new crank wheel and sensor for running ckp distributor (add pic files) 
For the cam signal , I did the reference operation myself on the pulley.(I added the picture to it)
I made bi holders against the pulley, I connected the sensor.
I use a proximity sensor (omron E2B ) this light illuminates when the sensor sees the object and sends a voltage between 11-11.6v from the signal cable. When I want to observe from PCLink, there is no problem in trig1 but I can not get trig2 signal and rpm.
trig2 settings in the picture
I need your help thanks everyone

problemlog.llg