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Usav8or

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Posts posted by Usav8or

  2. CAN link sensor

    in G4x

    Posted

    On 2/26/2023 at 4:35 AM, Adamw said:

    Error 16 & 33 are the usual indications of a power supply issue.  Are the wires at least 20AWG and connected to a source capable of ~8A?  You should have the cap fitted if its powered from a circuit that has other inductive devices on it.

    The CAN Lambda unit is wired as displayed in the "Preferred" diagram, and the wires are all 18AWG and less than 20" in length. The power source to the relay is the positive power post in the engine bay that's connected directly to the battery in the trunk. There are no other devices on the circuit.

     

    Looking at the "Alternative" diagram, does that method eliminate the separate relay for the CAN Lambda, and use the main relay supplying the ECU?

    Thanks for your help.

    CAN Lambda Faulting still PC Datalog - 2023-03-22 10;54;20 am.llgx

  3. CAN link sensor

    in G4x

    Posted

    Hi All, I might be having the same issue. The CAN Lambda is setup using the "Recommended" wiring arrangement without the 22uf capacitor. The sensor will provide a reading at times, then it seems as though you put the project away for a few days and it won't work again on restart. I'm getting 2 error codes. 16 "Heated Too Long" and 33 Open Circuit APE-IPE. If I add the capacitor between the power and ground error code 16 remains and the second error changes to 34 Open Circuit RE-IPE. The O2 sensor came in the kit and is new. The wiring harness is all new, as are the main, fuel pump, and CAN lambda module relays. 

    errors 16 33 PC Datalog - 2023-02-24 8;39;02 am.llgx

  4. Trigger issues

    in G4x

    Posted

    Problem solved after some investigation. The BMW s50 cam sensor was changed from a reluctor to a 12v hall effect sensor following a TU. Now it starts and runs at idle. Next up is working out a fuel table. I don't suppose anyone has a fuel table or base map for a BMW s14 they'd like to share.

    Thanks,

    Jeff

    runningTriggerScopeLog.llgx

  6. Trigger issues

    in G4x

    Posted

    The Cam sensor is a Hall sensor, and the crank is a reluctor. I've double checked the connections to both and everything checks out fine. However, it doesn't seem like either trigger is getting power during the crank. Is there a setting somewhere that will cut power to the sensors, or should there be a digital input (ignition switch) setup to tell the ecu when the ignition switch is in start or run? We're not using the ECU hold power feature on this build so the ignition switch in DI has been set to "Always on." Should it just be set to "OFF." Attached is the last trigger scope attempt of the day, hopefully I did it right this time. 

     

    Thanks, Jeff

    TriggerScopeLoglast2.llgx

  7. Trigger issues

    in G4x

    Posted

    Thanks, I’ll have to look at it again in a day or two. I’m not doing something right. Is there a way I can look at the capture after it’s been saved? I’ll also need to get a definitive answer on the construct on the trigger wheel they had made. I suspect it looks like the VAC wheel, but made out of steel and without a magnet, just the 2 missing teeth. Thanks again for your time and assistance. 

  8. Trigger issues

    in G4x

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Adamw said:

    That scope shows no signal at all.  Are you sure the capture button was only clicked when the engine was cranking - and not before?

    Also, looking at a pic of the VAC cam trigger kit, it looks like an aluminimum disc with a magnet in it, so most likely the sensor is a hall effect rather than reluctor.  

    I'll try this again, and I'll ask about the trigger wheel.  Thanks, Jeff

    TriggerScopeLog888.llgx

  9. Trigger issues

    in G4x

    Posted

    Trying to help out a friend this time and were having some issues with getting the crank and cam sensors setup on a BMW S14. Attached is a trigger scope that looks to me like neither sensor is getting much of a signal. Both the Crank and cam triggers are VAC Motorsport products, though the crank trigger wheel was special made elsewhere for some sort of clearance issue with a cover. It is still 36 minus 2, just a slightly smaller diameter. I've had to lower the arming thresholds down to .2 in order for the ECU to pickup a signal. The current setup is a BMW S14 with direct spark ignition (LS4 coils I believe) and OEM injectors. The alternator belt isn't on yet, so its powered externally at this point. I'm not a tuner by trade, but I did successfully get my E30 with an M20 going a few years ago using a G4+ Thunder. Were still in the early stages of configuring the details, but any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks

    999.llgx BMW 2002 M2 Configuration.pclx

  10. CAN Assistance with Aim MXS Strada

    in G4+

    Posted

    Thanks again, I haven't been able to check everything yet, but the EGT data and fuel consumption data transferred easily. The GPS speed needed a multiplier of 15 in order to record accurately. The fuel level I'll be watching over the next couple of weeks as I burn some, but it seems to be functioning fine. The Oil temp looks like it needs a multiplier as well. I check into that later. The important data streams I wanted are the speed and fuel, and they are working well.

    As you suspected, the fuel used can be reset along with the odometers on the counters page. It's pretty slick!

     

    I really appreciate your help.

     

    Jeff

  14. Can anyone help with an idle control problem

    in G4+

    Posted

    I am having a idle control problem that seems to only show up after and longer drive. Attached are links to the log and pclr file. After a drive that lasted about an hour today we stopped at a stop light and the idle dropped enough to shut the engine off and its been running rough ever since. This is not the first time and it seems to go away after it cools again. Please take a look at the log and see if your seeing something I'm missing, which is very likely.

     

    Thanks,

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/o9r0c10n3y4zcky/Idle Trouble Log.llg?dl=0

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/xw7t36gq85fw1dd/Idle Trouble.pclr?dl=0

  15. Lambda/AFR problems

    in G4+

    Posted · Edited by Usav8or
    additional information

    Thanks, I have a replacement O2 sensor for bank #1 arriving today. I'll see what I get with that and will check for an air leak while its up. Everything appears to be running fine though.

    Thanks

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/o12jrkwzkio9o99/AFR gone wild.llg?dl=0

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/5g18oguau7ov7dt/AFR gone wild.csv?dl=0

    So, I've swapped the 2 sensors and the problems follow. #2 goes dead and #1 now indicates an AFR ranging between 45-120. I'm not finding any air leaks either.

     

    The new O2 sensor on bank 1 seems to have fixed that problem. Now the one on bank 2 has completely failed and is only heating to 65 degrees. I have 2 more sensors on the way so I'll have a spare.

     

    Thanks for the help

  16. Lambda/AFR problems

    in G4+

    Posted

    Everything is current and up to date. From looking at the logs the problem started yesterday morning in the middle of an idle run. The only thing I can think of is something with the internal lambda controller was changed when I was configuring the CAN settings for the AIM MXS Strada I purchased.

  18. Lambda/AFR problems

    in G4+

    Posted

    I noticed a couple of weeks ago that my Lambda #1 was not giving any sensor information and the temperature is indicating a constant 32 degrees. Now the #2 Lambda is indicating an AFR around 45-50 at idle. Nothing has been changed in the last couple weeks except for an ECU update. Even then the lambda #2 worked fine. It wasn't until today the it started acting up. Any ideas?

     

  20. BMW E30 M20 Trigger setup

    in G4+

    Posted

    19 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Can you give us a pic of that, it doesnt sound like a good idea.  

    You shared the log right, I have downloaded it.  Nothing obvious jumps out at me except there appears to be a shit ton of fuel going in.  Have you tried backing off the master fuel etc?  You have 12% injector duty cycle at idle and the lambda is pegged full rich at 0.67.

    Never mind, my mistake check valve is for the brake booster. I guess I'll be fixing that on Monday. Like I said, their instructions arent the best.

    Thanks

  22. BMW E30 M20 Trigger setup

    in G4+

    Posted

    Ok, the MAP has been replaced with the BAP and put a one-way check valve on the MAP sensor hose. The ITB's have been balanced and the idle adjusted so it runs pretty well given that we haven't done a tune on it yet. The new problem we've encountered since these adjustments is it's harder to start and has a tendency to hydrolock after shutting it down. Any idea why?  I'd attach a log file, but it's too big apparently.

    Thanks,

    Jeff

  23. BMW E30 M20 Trigger setup

    in G4+

    Posted

    On 4/1/2019 at 10:05 PM, Adamw said:

    If it connects to each cylinder then that usually works well - it will just be the balance/sync making it look ugly. 

    If it is only connected to a single cylinder then it is never going to work well - if this is the case change the fuel load source to BAP so that the erratic MAP doesnt effect the fueling.

    I may be mistaken. Looking at RHD Engineering's instructions it looks like the vacuum line runs from the #3 cylinder throttle body then T's off to the MAP sensor and the vacuum block. I'll check with my mechanic tomorrow to confirm that's how he set it up.

     

  24. BMW E30 M20 Trigger setup

    in G4+

    Posted

    1 minute ago, Adamw said:

    Yep most likely.  So how is the MAP connected - does it go to some manifold with a vacuum hose to each throttle or is it just connected to a single cylinder?

    Good question, I believe its connected to a vacuum manifold block, but I'm not sure. 

  25. BMW E30 M20 Trigger setup

    in G4+

    Posted

    Could that be caused by the ITB setup that has still to be dialed in/balanced? The MAP sensor is the Link brand 2.5 bar model. Since there wasn't a Link 2.5 Bar listed in the PCLink software I selected the non-branded 2.5 BAR option. Should I use a differect option?

     

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