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Re: Nissan Pulsar Vzr(SR16VE) with G4 Storm HELP!!!


Eddie Long
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I recently had a fully forged SR16VE engine build done with far too many aftermarket parts to list.The engine has been stroked to a 2.2L. I had broken in the engine over the last 1600kms with the revs limited to 3800rpm and on May 4th went to get the car tuned on a dyno where the engine was built. These guys had never worked on an SR16VE engine before and as the day rolled on the guy doing the mapping became increasingly frustrated with the mapping of this engine. The car was given back to me at the end of the day after 48 dyno runs,very poorly mapped with a terrible cold start up idle and the car doesnt rev anywhere near to where it should. Hp is way down from where it should be,I figure the car should be making around 250hp when it is at present making 216.8hp. If anyone out there has tuned a built SR16VE or SR20VE engine and mapped it using the Link G4 storm,could you please give me any information about the mapping of the engine as I have been left to do all the research and find out where these guys are going wrong with the mapping! Thank you! Regards Eddie

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Ideally Kieran if I could put you in contact with the guy who was doing the tuning of the car so you could set him right on the mapping of the engine. It is alot to ask I know bt at least the guy would know exactly the right questions to ask you!This way we could cut out you asking me questions that I cant answer,passing them onto him and me passing the answers back to you. OR Any mapping info you can give or any suggestions/tips on tuning the engine! Well this is a list of the parts and work done and the car is nowhere near the power it should be and is not idling as it should,not reving as it should,it will rev to different levels in different gears.The car is just not right and I am very unhappy with the results. I have no clue of how to map of tune,I am not a mechanic so I cannot answer really technical questions about it. I just spent a fortune on parts, machining,building,and supposed tuning the car but it is just a seriuos disappointment!!! Tragic dyno results from 2.2L SR16VE build, HELP PLEASE!!! List of mods Head:Ported and polished,Skimmed by 1mm N1 cams and new shims Hks adjustable cam gears Brian Crower dual valve springs and ti retainers Supertech oversized valves Supertech bronze valve guides ARP headstuds Block: Honed JE 86mm custom pistons notched for oil squirters 12:1cr Manley H beam rods K1 SR20 92mm crank ACL race bearings New VE water pump ARP Mainstuds Intake:Custom 3" cold air intake piping HKS Super flow filter N1 70mm throttlebody N1 Plenum ported N1 intake manifold ported and back injector holes blocked Other parts used: New timing chain kit and N1 tensioner Nissan VVL multilayer head gasket New intake and exhaust gaskets New valve cover and spark gaskets and valve grommets New crank seals New Pcv valve Nismo universal FPR and bracket. Sytec fuel pressure gauge Deastchwork 370cc injectors Mitsuboshi ribstar belts Walbro 255 fuel pump Magnecor KV85 spark leads NGK Iridium max plugs Fidanza flywheel SR20 215mm Competition clutch New VE rotor arm and distributor cap Fujisibo 4-2-1 header 5Zigen de-cat 5Zigen Pro racer cat back Standalone ecu Link G4 storm I'm sure there are other parts/mods I havent put in but I cant think of them right now I had done a 1600kms break in on the motor and brought her up to be tuned/mapped yesterday the 4th May These guys had never worked on an SR16VE engine before,built or tuned/mapped! The guy had the car on the dyno from early in the morning (around 9-10am) and did 48 runs on the dyno and 3/4's of a tank of fuel by 7:30pm. He stared trying to sort the cold start up and idle issues and then went on to sort the high and low idles for the Nct car emssions tests. So,aparantly all was sorted by lunchtime and after lunch was only the few power runs left to do on the dyno. The car would only rev to 8500rpm and would start misfiring. I was told that there wasnt a problem with fueling or the airflow but for some reason she was losing spark! As it was 7:30Pm I was left with the car to drive the two hours home with this dyno read out a> I a nutshell I was left with the car in the way it was and left to find out myself what could possibly be wrong as they were completely stumped! The car has a terrible on idle from a cold start,very low rpm and moving from 1000rpm to 500rpm to almost cutting out. I havent driven in first gear for long but in second it redlines at around 7500rpm,3rd about 8500 and to be honest I havent wanted to rev the car out too much as I dont want to do any damage to the engine if the ecu isnt mapped/tuned correctly! If I go over a bumpy stretch of road the car gets very bucky and I also noticed when going around a bend in the road at about 40kph I dropped from 4th into 3rd and again it was bucking badly. I have very little mechanical knowledge so have no idea whats gone wrong or where to go next,I've just paid for a job to be done and done right and this certainly is not the case. I had the car compression tested today and from the dissy side compression was roughly Cyl 1 = 225psi Cyl 2 = 225psi Cyl 3 = 215psi Cyl 4 215psi Comp tester was in bar so thats why they are roughly around those numbers, 1 = 15.5bar 2 = 15.5bar 3 = 15bar 4 = 15bar. These numbers are probably not the most accurate as I'm not sure the engine was at full operating temperature,I will do a more accurate compression test today and post the results then! One last thing to note is when the mechanic was putting back the Magnecor spark leads I noticed they weren't even nearly sealing around the top of the spark chamber leaving it possible for dirt to get in! They are 8.5mm and my old spark leads were Nology hotwires which are listed as 9.9mm. I'm sure this isn't right but surely this couldnt be the root of the problem or could it. a> I reckoned with all the mods,parts and machining processes done that I would surely get around 240-250 hp figure. I told the guys doing the mapping this and because they couldn't get anywhere near that figure on the dyno I was dismissed as being full of shit,escentially! Can anyone out there who has any ideas of what might be the problem please let me know, or anyone who has tuned a VE motor using a Link G4 Storm I woul be very grateful for your input! Regards Eddie

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Hi Eddie, 

 

There's a couple of things that could be causing issues... those Magnecor leads do look like they won't be helping the situation; they're clearly for a RWD SR20 with its taller cam cover.  Stock VE leads very, very rarely have problems and aftermarket leads are often a backwards step.  So the first thing to try & do is swap back the stock VE leads (if you still have them) or the Nologys, and then see if the miss is still there. 

 

Second thing is the Fujitsubo headers - if they have not been modified at all, they are a marginal improvement over stock and will be at their limit at 215whp.  Shortening the secondaries to ~100mm works wonders with these headers.

 

The third thing is the ECU may be picking up triggering errors at high RPM - however with this and the idle symptoms, nobody can actually say for sure without seeing the PCL file and a log of it behaving badly.  Do you have either of these?  Whereabouts are you & your tuner?

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I will be changing the leads as soon as I can get a set! I never had the standard leads as the car came in from Japan with the Nology hotwires.The Nology hotwires are damaged and were originally causing a misfire before they were replaced with the Magnecor leads. I am not 100% sure the header is Fujitsibo but here is a pic so judge for yourself! a> I can ask for the PCL file from the garage that did the work or if there is anything I can do to help find the answers let me know. I have the latest version of the links G4 storm software on my laptop and could hook it up to the ecu via the usb but I would be worried about messing something up on the ecu! Is there a way I can retrieve the info you want without messing with the setting on the ecu? I am living just outside Dublin in the Rep of Ireland and the garage is just outside Belfast in Northern Ireland.This is a bit of a disadvange to me as it is two hours drive from my town. One last thing,how much compression do you think I should be getting in each cylinder from this build,roughly 260-270psi? I measured 230psi on each cylinder yesterday on a dry test.Didn't do a wet test yet!

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Yep they look like Fujitsubo's.  Did you perform the compression test with the throttle wide open and all plugs removed?

You can definitely retrieve the pcl file without altering the settings on the ECU, just use the excellent help file in PCLink to guide you through the steps.

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All spark plugs were out ,dissy was disconnected and accelerator pedal was fully depressed when cranking the motor! I will have a look and see can I retrieve the pcl file myself! I am going to be having the car re-tested on a different dyno on Friday 13th with a guy I trust who has an excellent reputation and who does all forms of engine machine work! I will wait and see what he has to say to me after the dyno! Also I will get a new set of spark wires that actually fit. I wanted to get Nology hotwires for SR16VE but they are impossible to find on the net unless you can speak Japanese and buy from Amazon Japan! I might just go for a set of NGK leads on Nengun unless they are shite,do you think the NGK leads would be good enough?

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Hmm that does seem low then.  In comparison, I compression tested a stock SR20VE (10.3:1 static comp ratio) at 230psi.  I don't see any reason why NGK leads wouldn't do the trick, as long as they're the right length.

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Hey Kieran,do you have a base map pcl file for an SR20VE that I can show to my tuner? Once he is put in the right direction I am sure he can fine tune the map after that! I have been very busy the last few days and hadn't been able to download the Pcl file,I had attempted it this evening but wasnt too sure what I was doing plus it was getting dark so I had to quit! I will try and get it tomorrow! Cheers mate!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Eddie, sorry I've been very busy so have only just had a chance to look at your tune now.  By & large, the fuelling looks good.  The ignition map looks incomplete though, particularly in the WOT region - I wonder if the tuner was checking for knock, as it looks over-advanced at WOT & high rpm.  The dwell settings look backwards too, although I suspect that it's not running too little dwell at any point.

How did you get on with the other tuner?

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Well he only did a few dyno runs and I knew his dyno results would be lower because thats just the way he has his dyno set up! I went to him because he has his own time attack cars,he competes in time attack and race events,he is also a machinist/engineer so he knows his sh*t. He couldnt pinpoint exactly what was wrong but said that spark was breaking down even before 8000rpm,the said that the car was running very rich,he said the cam timing and also the ignition timing also needed attention. I have my NGK power cables specific for VE engines arriving this week and will fit them,maybe this might help the spark issue as the Magnecor leads were for a GA16DE(sourced by mistake by tuners). I am going to be sending the car back up to them for a week to tune the car properly. I am trying to get a base map pcl file for an SR16VE/20VE engine on the Links G4 ecu from a guy on the SR20forum! Here's hoping!

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NGK Power cable installed today,definitely a difference there alright,the car will rev to 8500rpm but thats where the limit is set to on the ecu. Between 2000-4000 it isnt as smooth as it could be but from 4000rpm to 8500rpm she revs up fast and smooth. I am sure when the ecu is mapped right she'll be a sweet little daily Vzr!

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