AN Volt3, Trigger1 & Trigger2 port failure...

[Guest |586|]

No joy out here on the farm, upgrading my freshly overhauled '92 Toyota Celica Turbo Altrac... :cry:

Here is what my service tech & I have probed out (Background: full electronics service shop equipped, Amateur Radio /PC techies - we build core Net servers - 35+ years dealing with this crap).

Problem #1: AN Volt3 on ViPEC board fails to detect verified MAP sensor input voltage of 2.4 VDC applied to Pin 42 of ECU plug.

We probed wire #42 leading into ECU. Tests good w/2.4 VDC, & OEM boost meter on dash responds when -/+ pressure applied to the OEM MAP sensor. Have measured 1-5 VDC available @pin 42 of OEM ECU socket with vacuum/pressure applied to MAP sensor.

ViPEC shows failure to calibrate MAP. AN Volt3 constantly reads 0-Volts on PC display. Have constant error showing on AN Volt3. Clear the error & it returns.

Problem #2: No detection of Trigger 1 or Trigger 2, so we cannot run timing pre-start test. Trigger & ignition is setup according to ViPEC data for 3SGTE/ST185 engine, and confirmed by Toyota repair book. Settings double-checked by my techie & mechanic.

*** Ignition test works okay & we get timing light to strobe in test mode (only).

ViPEC Model: Toyota MR2 BB V1.0 - ST185

PCB Rev 1.2

Serial # 6653

Notes: PC Board was assembled into modified OEM ECU case on grounded PC-Server assembly workbench. Normal static-drain precautions were taken (wrist straps, grounded workbench, 60% humidity, etc.). Used our own header-expansion plugs, as we have a service bench full of them.

My ViPEC ECU came with obvious finger prints on it, right out of the static bag. (No big deal).

Performed ECU image update - same result. Need a copy of my ViPEC ECU settings file?

Clue? Head-scratching? Pointing & laughing? *sigh* :?

This freshly-overhauled show chassis is set up with JE ceramic coated pistons, Eagle rods, bored fuel rail, micro-balanced crank, ceramic coated valves, 800cc SARD injectors, WALBRO 255lph fuel pump, Forge BOV, gutted AFM, SPEC Stage 3+ clutch & 10 Lb chromoly flywheel, 3" stainless exhaust, twin wide-band O2 sensors, twin knock sensors w/Knock Box, ViPEC ECU, ASUS Eee Netbook, & Valentine One Radar/Laser detector.

[rayhall]

Please email me the map in the ECU. [email protected]

Ray.

[rayhall]

1. You have Cal Table 3 selected for the map sensor, but have zero in all the cells. This is why it is not working. The software has a map sensor pick list that has two Celica map sensors to pick from.

2. Trigger 2 VVT-i has Inlet/LH selected. This engine does not have a VVT-i cam.

I am getting you a map from a tuned car and will email it in about 6 to 8 hours time when I get it from the dealer.

Ray.

[Guest |586|]

My tech was trying all sorts of settings out of desperation, and I know that CAM setting was not what I had in there. The CAL sensor setting was to force *any* voltage reading we could into the setting. The Toyota MAP sensor was originally selected, to no avail.

We are all learning about the ECU complexities here. There are no ViPEC dealers or *qualified* tuner shops within 100 miles of our rural Kansas location, and I was hoping I wouldn't have to trailer my baby into Kansas City for a proper dyno tune... Just yet.

Also - We noticed the TVIS intake runner setting is supported, but couldn't locate it on the drop down menu. Was hoping to dump my MSD RPM switch in favor of a variable RPM setting via the ViPEC.

Thanks for the quickie reply!

I'll pass the AN Volt3 setup info over to my tech. We were *really* pulling our hair out today over a possible blown port(s) - as we are used to seeing that crap all the time in our line of work (building web servers).

I kept reading more & more statements on the OZ Celica Turbo boards concerning ViPEC products, so I took the hint and tracked down Cam Koole in Canada. Took a while to obtain the ECU, but then again, my overhaul has taken 9 months to obtain hand-selected components and 'Get 'R Done' - hopefully, correctly the first time.

I want to keep this rust-free original owner AWD show chassis in a stock-looking 'sleeper' format, so I can have 'olde fart fun' baiting the kiddies & slipping past their overly-plasticized ricers - while sounding like a cross between a screaming Banshee & an industrial vacuum. :twisted: (Hey, it's time for the old man to lay back and enjoy life...)

Here's the website URL, describing in detail what's been done to this chassis after 18 years of *extremely* enjoyable & trouble-free ownership:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3142834

Later...

[Guest |586|]

My tech & I spent all today dealing with my ECU plug pinouts, mapping all pins & verifying what we have to work with.

Here's what we discovered:

The actual ECU plugs I have in this USA ST185 (Celica Turbo Altrac 2.0 Liter) chassis measure out to what ViPEC has posted on the website as the ST205 ECU header, which means we are working with completely mis-matched pinouts.

Info off of the car's door:

Manufactured 11/91 (sold as 1992 model year)

VIN#: JT2ST88P4N0019179

C/TR: 040/FV10 Model: ST185L-BLMV2A

A/TM-737/E150F

This explains the strange goings on with the MAP sensor & Trigger problems.

Next up, is there a 'go between' socket converter that can be whipped up ASAP, or is this a return the present ECU

and wait forever+1 day, or do we end up butchering my harness and banging our heads on the wall?

My first idea was to unplug the pins from the Toyota harness and swap them around. Good luck with that one - not do-able.

Suggestions??

[rayhall]

I will ship Cam a ST205 plugin for you.

Now we know what the problem is I would like to comment on this.

- as we are used to seeing that crap all the time in our line of work (building web servers).

Automotive electronics are nothing like web servers. The components used and the circuit design are totally different. They will work at much wider temperatures and the circuit design has a large amount of filtering and protection from voltage spikes. You need to be doing something like welding on the car to do damage. All ECU are fully tested before shipping, and we do not get ECU failing for no reason. You need to drive over them with a truck to damage them...

Ray.

[Guest |586|]

I figured on that fact, but we see SO much failure in our line of work, that as 'old fart' techies it has simply numbed us out.

That's why I mentioned to my tech that we need to start looking for other reasons this is fudged up. We're pretty certain our end of the plug works, & I'm betting your end works - but we need to VERIFY the plugs & sockets are actually compatibly wired, & Toyota shipped so many global models out... Our model & what OZ & Britain received were different. And this is probably a contributing factor in this particular 'failure to communicate'.

Sure as heck, my hunch was right on the money. Didn't get very far down the back of the plug when I hear an 'aha' come from under the dashboard.

My mechanic poked his head in and calmly mentions this is a *very* common problem in his line of work. then he went back to banging on a Nissan with a dead ECU and a 'not correct' replacement that UPS just delivered to him. I didn't feel so bad after seeing that.

I don't envy your job one bit, with all the manufacturer's variables involved. But then I've had my day(s) with 'expurt' (mis-spelling intentional) noobe's screwing simple stuff up so badly, that I just have to wipe the slate & start over. :geek:

I'll be patient and get my add-on dashboard metering wired in, my short shifter set up, & the new HID's installed.

Thank you for your patience with me.