cj.surr

I wanted to share my success using a bluetooth adapter since I have not seen any other posts about using one on this forum. So far I have only tested it with an Android tablet and RealDash. It has been working perfectly. Connection is fast and very reliable. There is no noticeable lag on the dash interface. 
 
There are a few advantages of using Bluetooth over USB for a tablet dash.
1) The usb port on the tablet is freed up to be used for charging (this can also be used to automatically turn the tablet on/off with key power)
2) The usb port on the ECU can be dedicated to the Laptop usb cable for tuning (dash cannot be used simultaneously with laptop, but less plugging/unplugging)
 
This is assuming that your Link ECU has separate tuning and CANBUS ports.
The Bluetooth Adapter I have been using is one made for Megasquirt MS2/MS3 – PerfectTuning is the manufacturer. https://perfecttuning.net/en/accessories/26-bluetooth-adapter-for-ms2-and-ms3.html
There are a few other BT adapters for megasquirt, they are all likely the same Bluetooth chip and work the same. The Megasquirt uses a DB9 connector for serial connection, so that is what comes with the BT adapter. In order to connect to the Link you will need a Link CAN connector http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2 These connectors need to be soldered and can be somewhat difficult due to their small size. Cable pigtail is also available but fairly expensive.
The following is the pinout on CAN connector, the BT DB9 connector and where those wires need to end up. This can be wired a few different ways. Either the DB9 connector on the BT adapter can be mated to with a female DB9, or it can be cut off and hardwired (or use a different style connector). The two serial wires will go to the CAN connector on the ECU (TX to RX, and vice versa). The 5v and GND wires will need to go to a 5v power source. Do not use the 5v supply from the ECU, the BT adapter can draw up to 30mA. 12V DC to 5V power supplies are very common, it is the same voltage as USB chargers. What I did was buy a USB charger and hardwire a USB cable pigtail to make the connection. I used and like this model:



I recommend powering the 5v power supply from the ACC terminal (radio power) on the ignition switch. This way there is still power to the Bluetooth with the key in position 1 (ignition off). This will allow you to power cycle the ECU without killing power to the Bluetooth adapter – leaving it wirelessly connected to the tablet. This means that the dash will be live in about a second instead of 5-10sec.
 
In order to use the tuning port to connect a laptop, either the CAN connector must be removed or a 2 pole switch/relay must be put on the serial wires coming from the CAN connector. The switch must be within about 20cm of the ECU, otherwise the serial stream may become active and not allow the laptop to connect. Once the laptop has been connected, the ECU must be restarted to allow the serial stream to become active again. Hopefully in the future this can be changed by Link so that the serial stream is reactivated upon laptop disconnect.
If there is interest and the forum allows, I could possibly make and sell a plug-and-play Bluetooth solution for the Link G4+. Cost would likely be just a little more than the Perfect Tuning adapter.
Here is a video of my dash on a “cold start” – Powered up and connected in less than 10 seconds. Realdash can be set to allow the tablet to sleep when charge power is killed from the tablet. It works well as a OEM style dash and I don’t need to manually touch the tablet at all.
 
This is what the inside of the PT BT adapter looks like. 
Blue = 5v
Orange = GND
Grey = RX
Yellow = TX

I wanted to share my success using a bluetooth adapter since I have not seen any other posts about using one on this forum. So far I have only tested it with an Android tablet and RealDash. It has been working perfectly. Connection is fast and very reliable. There is no noticeable lag on the dash interface. 
 
There are a few advantages of using Bluetooth over USB for a tablet dash.
1) The usb port on the tablet is freed up to be used for charging (this can also be used to automatically turn the tablet on/off with key power)
2) The usb port on the ECU can be dedicated to the Laptop usb cable for tuning (dash cannot be used simultaneously with laptop, but less plugging/unplugging)
 
This is assuming that your Link ECU has separate tuning and CANBUS ports.
The Bluetooth Adapter I have been using is one made for Megasquirt MS2/MS3 – PerfectTuning is the manufacturer. https://perfecttuning.net/en/accessories/26-bluetooth-adapter-for-ms2-and-ms3.html
There are a few other BT adapters for megasquirt, they are all likely the same Bluetooth chip and work the same. The Megasquirt uses a DB9 connector for serial connection, so that is what comes with the BT adapter. In order to connect to the Link you will need a Link CAN connector http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2 These connectors need to be soldered and can be somewhat difficult due to their small size. Cable pigtail is also available but fairly expensive.
The following is the pinout on CAN connector, the BT DB9 connector and where those wires need to end up. This can be wired a few different ways. Either the DB9 connector on the BT adapter can be mated to with a female DB9, or it can be cut off and hardwired (or use a different style connector). The two serial wires will go to the CAN connector on the ECU (TX to RX, and vice versa). The 5v and GND wires will need to go to a 5v power source. Do not use the 5v supply from the ECU, the BT adapter can draw up to 30mA. 12V DC to 5V power supplies are very common, it is the same voltage as USB chargers. What I did was buy a USB charger and hardwire a USB cable pigtail to make the connection. I used and like this model:



I recommend powering the 5v power supply from the ACC terminal (radio power) on the ignition switch. This way there is still power to the Bluetooth with the key in position 1 (ignition off). This will allow you to power cycle the ECU without killing power to the Bluetooth adapter – leaving it wirelessly connected to the tablet. This means that the dash will be live in about a second instead of 5-10sec.
 
In order to use the tuning port to connect a laptop, either the CAN connector must be removed or a 2 pole switch/relay must be put on the serial wires coming from the CAN connector. The switch must be within about 20cm of the ECU, otherwise the serial stream may become active and not allow the laptop to connect. Once the laptop has been connected, the ECU must be restarted to allow the serial stream to become active again. Hopefully in the future this can be changed by Link so that the serial stream is reactivated upon laptop disconnect.
If there is interest and the forum allows, I could possibly make and sell a plug-and-play Bluetooth solution for the Link G4+. Cost would likely be just a little more than the Perfect Tuning adapter.
Here is a video of my dash on a “cold start” – Powered up and connected in less than 10 seconds. Realdash can be set to allow the tablet to sleep when charge power is killed from the tablet. It works well as a OEM style dash and I don’t need to manually touch the tablet at all.
 
This is what the inside of the PT BT adapter looks like. 
Blue = 5v
Orange = GND
Grey = RX
Yellow = TX

Why don't you see it being added? There's nothing overly complicated about it - it just averages a few sensor signal values. 10 year old Megasquirt software allows you to set an individual smoothing value for each input. 
Restrictors are not always practical/effective to add, such as in a water injection pressure. 

I see, I wish that it would always ask if I wanted to load write the changes to the ecu, no matter how large. Because when it just loads the config out of the ecu and doesn't notify about anything, it's easy to think there were not any changes in the tune file. Then you carry on, tuning the config loaded from the ecu, until you realize there is no filename associated with the open tune file. Then you have to open the old file and see what's different, plus the changes you've recently made to the config file that was automatically loaded.... I've lost a good bit of time this way. 
 
If it's not possible for PCLink to ask if you want to load a tune with large differences, there should at least be a dialog that notifies what's going on (tune uploaded from ECU is replacing the open tune).

Another way to work around the missing inputs on the Thunder (or to divide an input frequency down on other ECUs) is to use a CMOS 4018 IC.  No external components required and can be powered from the ECUs +5 Volt supply.  To divide by 10, the inverted Q5 output is fed back into the data input pin.  I used this last week to divide by 8 on a fury (I fed back the inverted Q4 pin to data)
Hope this helps,
  Richard.
 

I see, I wish that it would always ask if I wanted to load write the changes to the ecu, no matter how large. Because when it just loads the config out of the ecu and doesn't notify about anything, it's easy to think there were not any changes in the tune file. Then you carry on, tuning the config loaded from the ecu, until you realize there is no filename associated with the open tune file. Then you have to open the old file and see what's different, plus the changes you've recently made to the config file that was automatically loaded.... I've lost a good bit of time this way. 
 
If it's not possible for PCLink to ask if you want to load a tune with large differences, there should at least be a dialog that notifies what's going on (tune uploaded from ECU is replacing the open tune).

The problem is the ecu uses linear interpolation between the cells in any table, yet a thermistor is highly non linear.  Since you have such a big gap between the 24°C and 94°C cal points it will be very noticeable.  The reason you see difference between voltage Vs ohms cal is because the voltage divider calculation will inverse the non-linearity affect (I suspect the voltage cal will be closer to reality than the ohms in this case).  You typically want no more than 10°C break points for a thermistor cal.
Pic at the bottom to show the effect, straight lines are your cal, pink line is more like how the sensor would behave.
I would suggest you try the pre-defined Hella 6PT calibration as that looks like it matches your sensor reasonably well.

 

@Adamw beat me to it while I was busy drawing graphs and eating dinner, but my graphs have more lines on them so i'm going to post it anyway
Neither number is probably right because of the interpolation issues. The real number at the point you mention is probably around 105F. Red lines show approx actual sensor response. Green are the values I calculated that you would have seen at the time the screenshots were taken. Yellow lines show the approx value if the sensor calibration had been more complete, vs where it crosses the white line of the calibration as entered. 

Just wire the relay(s) low side to an Aux out as a "fuel pump" and it will automatically turn off the relay if engine RPM is 0.

I think the problem probably is you due to not using a compatible trigger & VVT mode.  Your Inlet LH error counter is continuously counting up and the Inlet LH signal is reporting extra pulses.  Try setting trigger mode to M52 VVT and VVT mode to M52, this should work with the single tooth cam and 60-2 crank. Trigger offset and VVT offset may need to be set again with this change.  If that doesnt help please post another log and the tune file.
 
I suspect something is also mechanically wrong if this is the case, in my experience the 2 state vanos is usually near instant switching (less than 50ms at a guess), you dont normally need to consider cam position at all, usually just switch VE tables at the same time the vanos is activated. 

It doesnt do this. If you have configured spark as "direct", its always direct.