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Posts posted by Rossobianconero

  1. We wire a e46 m3 engine, and the stock ignition coil is a dump coil, so you will need a igniter module on the wiring. It was a US market m3, I dont know if have any difference with other markets.

  2. 7 hours ago, Rozsko said:

    well. with this G4X plugin, this was the first pull I did, and for sure it requires a little more tuning :) , but since the MAP and the RPM is pretty much the same, or at least there is very little change in them, I can't think of anything to change. TPS is 100%, MAP is about 180kpa, RPM is between 6600 and 7000, injector pw is constant.

    Anyhow, thanks a lot and here is the current map and the log. Initially I did not attach as the log is much bigger then the max size up-loadable.

    log: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMliznkSsVYslxlLGg?e=xWhA3B


    2020.06.16 - knock table gains.pclx 370.32 kB · 1 download

    there you have it, like Adamw said, it just need more tuning. Usually you need to take quite a lot of fuel at higher rpm because like Adamw said, the efficiency of the engine drop (maybe no so much in a high na revving engine)

  3. if you keep having this problem I will say that switching the trigger wheel to something that allowe you to run the engine without cam sensor, could be a good option. Just run semisecuential injection, as you already run wastespark like the stock engine. 

  4. 6 hours ago, adilaj2002 said:

    Does the fuel do engine temperature coz i have rich fuel 

    lambda .75-1.05 should make a big difference in engine temp at low load, like cruising at 120km. and like Adam said, either the fans...

    maybe realy retarded ignition timing? but I have never see that cause you ussually run a lot of advance when you are cruising...

    if you post a log file and the rom of the ecu maybe we can help.

  5. when you say below 110, are you taking about actual engine temperature (C?) or are you talking about vehicle speed?

    either way if you post a log and the rom file from the ecu we can have a look.

  6. On 4/23/2020 at 4:47 PM, hung_lo said:

    I have a BP6D 1.8 VVL engine to install in a 1991 Miata.

    I was wondering if the MX5X will support VVL and what additional components I will need (expansion loom - XSL?)
    I will be using the original Miata harness and adding plugs/wiring for the additional components.

    I've been recommended by all who have done this swap to use MS3, but I prefer Link products as I am more familiar and have had 0 issues with them in prior vehicles.

    Thank you in advance.

    I have a couple of customers with the 1.8 VVT engine, they run great on the LinkG4+ wiring ecu. And they upgrade from the MS ECU actually, one of them because of a faulty regulator on the alternator. Without warning the alternator start to make spikes of voltage, and burn the MS ecu... We wire in the Link (without knowing about the problem), after just a few seconds of the first start, the engine shutdown. Looking at the log, we saw voltage of over 18V, the ecu cut the fuel and save everything, the ecu never burn like the MS. I have work with MS ecu, and have customers with them on, I really don´t like it...

  7. On 4/28/2020 at 1:44 PM, RPS13180SX said:

    Hi all, noticed that my car has been running very rough on startup for a little bit, my auto sparky said that the iac valve has quit after 16 years, tried cleaning it and putting it back on. He mentioned that they can tune the vehicle without the iac valve, is this recommended?

    Any help is appreciated, I am waiting for s13 iac valves to come back into stock at efi solutions australia, but they wont have them in time before my tune is booked

    Yes, you can run the car without the IAC, when is cold it ussually have lower rpm that when at temperature, but I have run my SR20DET with a Storm with and without the IAC working. Is a good thing that the Link software let you do a lot of things to get the correct idle, I have other customers with SR20DET and others Ecu brands without IAC and they work OK aswell. Is better to have it but, you can get around it.

  8. you want to read lambda? if so doesnt have to be from a Can device, you can just buy a Aem X series wideband and you use the 0-5V signal, you just wire that correctly to the extreme and you are ready to go.

  9. 1 hour ago, Booston said:

    I know I should ultra rarely hit fuel cut but when I do it’s harsh, best way to soften it?

    or the other option is to detune the engine before hitting you fuel cut, let say you have your fuel cut at 7000rpm, you can lower the power of the engine before that rpm, so the driver knows that he is close or is just slower to hit, you can even rise the fuel cut to 7100rpm but lower the power output of the engine that no driver is gonna push the engine that high because is clearly not making any more power. Lower the boost, putting more fuel, or just taking a few degrees of the ign table, or all of them. Is just another way.

  10. 22 hours ago, Booston said:

    Thanks Ducie, I don’t want to view what’s going on ( mostly race car ) just want automation and safety.

    X could be on the cards then 

    I work with a lot of race cars, and usually my aproach is to leave it to the driver, I dont wont to shutdown the engine in the final corner if he is fighting for the championship, I leave that to him or her to decide, in that case the best way is a Dash, and make different alarms,  he or her can decide what to do and when. In those car I just make corrections to try keep everything undercontrol if something goes wrong. If is not that series the competition then aggresive protections is a good way to save the engine. 


    If you just need to turn on a light to warn the driver, you can use aux that under over X afr and X amount of load turn the light.

  11. 6 hours ago, Vaughan said:

    That reply was related to the part about using math on a 4D ignition table @Adamw.

    Had a play with using Lambda on a GP Limit table axis and it works perfectly when you are connected or have been connected and disconnected but doesn't appear to work correctly when being offline and loading a basemap.

    So a work around for the moment is just to set it up while connected to the ECU.

    Just checked the Math stuff again and it runs into the same problem.

    great info, the math is not a problem I was talking about two difference things, but is good to know that one connected I will have a chance to work that out, still would be great it they fix it. Save me a lot of time with some new projects to make all that configuration at home before going to the dyno.

  12. Well you didn't fix the problem with the the decimal in the tables, I say the other day about a table that I want to create (4D ign correction) using math, but didnt allowed decimals, I put a *10 at the end of the equation, and fix the problem but should be at the first place (easy fix anyway)... and now I was trying to make the GP limit table that I always use, with axis being lambda/boost, but doesn't allowe decimal in the lambda axis... making this GP limit useless. I know I can create another equation, put a 10* at the end and use that result for this GP table, but should be corrected in the software, the G4+ didn't have this problem.



  13. Hi,

    A friend want to install a link ecu to a Nissan HR16DE engine (rallycar) converter to traditional throttle, I know the software has the trigger pattern, what about the VVT that engine has... is a on of switch? or is a VVT that we are gonna need a pattern aswell on the software cause I didn't found one. I don't have the car in the same region to look at it.



  14. On 3/22/2020 at 1:38 PM, Coolbeans007 said:

    Nope I wired it to the other brown wire in my harness.

    and that brown wire of your harness is what?

    If you don't have ground on that brown wire the voltages that send through the 0-5v signal its going to be off. Probably thats why your ecu is reading odd.

  15. On 3/20/2020 at 12:16 AM, Coolbeans007 said:

    Ok first things first, I am no engine tuner, I recently got my ecu with a new harness for my 4age 16v. After getting the guy who made it to tune it, life was good. After doing a few tweaks like connecting the brake booster to my vacuum manifold the idle just dropped, it went from 1200 to 500 and would stall on cold start. I disconnected it and plugged it but the problem remained. I called up the guy who made and we tweaked it a little. At the time I didnt have a wideband so we couldnt see the afr. Now I have the AEM x series gauge. Its pretty good, except, it flat out doesnt send the correct lambda signal to my ecu. The gauge is correct but the ecu reads 1.227 at idle, all the time, even when reving which sometimes stalls it. It sometimes tries to work and it will go down. For example when the car is not on, the lambda read the same on the gauge and on the ecu. The gauge's lambda is very lean on idle, it usually is in the high like 1.6. I am running on pump gas. When I rev up and it doesnt stall the lamda on the ecu is bouncing all over the place. Ive checked my connections for the analog output of the gauge and all the wires are correct. The only thing I can thing of is I made a extension to the power for the gauge and I didnt ground it to the battery. I am running itbs with cop aswell. 

    When you wire the an+ to the ecu, did you wire the an- (brown cable on the AEM X Series) to ground?

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