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About CMSport

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  • Birthday 08/15/1985

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  1. thanks for the response, Adam. I don't have an ISC - just an old style thermo-mechanical bypass - but would be happy with group N style setup on cyclic idle. I do understand the impact on boosted brakes with anti-lag but to what extent can I keep with the system connected? if I see zero pressure at the intake is this going to cause a rock solid pedal? or will it be the same as if I'd disconnected the booster vacuum signal? I'm not going to be throwing a whole bunch of intake air at it so I'd be surprised if it made any boost at all with the throttle closed...?
  2. Hey all... apologies if this has been covered already but I've had a search around and not found anything strictly relevant I have a setup with a relatively small turbo used for circuit racing but still suffer a bit of lag through apex on slow circuits. I'm not overly keen on the idea of a full AL system making huge amounts of boost off throttle, mostly from the point of view of preserving my turbo (read as budget). I gather it's easy enough to fit a DI switch and setup the basic AL function in the software but am I wasting my time faffing with this if I don't have any additional air being fed in? In addition to this, is there a simple way that I can use EGT's to limit ign retard or turn ALS off altogether if things get dangerously hot? If I were able to achieve 0bar or even slightly negative pressure on overrun then I'd be happy with that but if it seems very unlikely that this is achievable then I'll focus my attention elsewhere Cheers Tim
  3. hey guys excuse me for jump starting an old thread but I'm curious as to the IGN retard mode and value suggested above as it doesn't seem to agree with the logic in my head (which is usually the incorrect part!) my understanding was that the safest starting point was to set the IGN retard mode to 'degrees' and set the value to 0* so that there is no antilag effect as such, then start introducing retard, perhaps in 5* increments to begin with, until either temps reach a safe limit or the boost target is met. the above suggested method of jumping straight to an absolute value of 20* seems like [potentially] an awful lot of timing retard if say the tuned map at the chosen RPM is 40* to begin with any help for my brain here would be greatly appreciated Cheers Tim
  4. Thanks I'll give that a go in a few mins!
  5. Hey guys I'm feeling a little desperate... I've just been working on a car with a Monsoon ECU and had the battery disconnected and loom unplugged. Everything was running fine when I drove it in and nothing fundamental was changed only wired in two standalone gauges. When I plugged the ECU back in the engine cranks but won't fire. This is the second time this has happened. The first time I did nothing in particular to resolve the issue and it started again and ran faultlessly for a month or so. Am supposed to be racing tomorrow!! Hence the desperation Any help at all would be much appreciated! I'll trailer the car to the track if it won't start in the morning and keep trying
  6. thanks Adam... yes it's running flex fuel and I am in the process of converting the map to modeled but it's the way it's been setup so is what I've got to deal with for now I only asked about the effect of traditional mode with interpolation as it's currently running two maps in traditional mode in this manner therefore, if it meant that it wasn't actually ever looking for the second map because this function didn't actually work, then I would deactivate it. but I'll leave it as is for the time being
  7. one further kind of related question - I see that in the fuel setup help file it says that interpolate between can only be used for modeled or modeled multi-fuel. what will happen if traditional mode is used and interpolate between is selected?
  8. thanks Adam - that's pretty well as I had assumed, thanks. And yes, the other small relevant changes to fuel and corrections setup. cheers! Tim
  9. hey guys, I've got an ECU that's tuned and running well but it's been done in traditional fuel mode and there are a few things confusing me... the biggest thing is that I'm used to setting up tune files in modeled fuel mode and am wondering if I can simply change the fuel setup over to modeled multi fuel mode without creating problems with the fuel map?
  10. Ok well that's good news to hear! I was led off that scent completely because there was spark when I checked the plugs sitting on top of the engine and never thought that the igniter would be built into the ECU! Stupid of me to assume. Hopefully I'll have a clip to share of it running soon! Yup sure enough one little Fuji Electric ET 424 transistor tucked away on the board https://photos.app.goo.gl/p5XDzxzm3KzU246p7
  11. still no joy on either front... BUT... I'm willing to how my arse here a little... as it were I somehow overlooked the fact that the factory IGN wiring does not include an igniter and therefore the setup is currently wired so that IGN output 1 from the Link is directly coupled to the -ve on the coil. I have not looked closely at this solely due to the fact that there seems to be spark but perhaps only a very weak one??? should this setup work or do I need to add an IGN driver? I have plenty of them and my goodness that would be an easy fix if that's the culprit !!
  12. ahhh OK I didn't know about the 400rpm threshold. I've got an adjustable timing light so bumping it to 10deg is easy I'll try the timing tweak first then add some juice in the intake and see what transpires thanks again! Tim
  13. I tried wetting the plugs before fitting and this didn't yield any response but I haven't tried an alternative fuel, no. I would have thought fresh 98 would be more than enough but maybe a bit of ether wouldn't hurt.. it does occasionally 'pop' when I turn the key off after cranking which sort of suggests to me that it's a timing issue...? maybe I've looked at it too many times and can't see my own mistake just to double check... base timing on these engine's is normally 10deg BTDC but I've set a timing mark at no.1 piston TDC so, when I am setting the base timing at the distributor, the correct way is to go into the "set base timing" function and lock ignition timing to 0 degrees BTDC then adjust the dizzy to the TDC mark with the timing light, correct? there's no logic in my mind that I should be setting the locked angle to 10deg, right?
  14. *update* still banging my head against the bench with this one! have double checked the wiring to the ECU, drained the fuel system and cleaned, including the tank, pulled the head off and checked clearances then re-fitted and triple checked cam timing and the thing still won't fire... I'm sure something will jump out eventually but I'm really at odds. while the head was off I also checked the timing mark on the front pulley with a DTI, on no.1 piston, and it's bang on at TDC any other thoughts and ideas would be really appreciated!! related... I checked the TPS wiring again and it's a very strange setup. there's no +5v, only a sensor earth then I suppose an earth switch back to the ECU for IDL and PWR... is this normally how the switch type TPS operate?
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