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Car wont idle after moving


TECH12

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So i have a a link g4+ extreme ecu, my tuner gave me a base map and at the time it would start and and idle fine. we made a few more adjustments and now  the car's RPM's fall like a rock when i push the clutch in and dies. i have to keep the RPMs above 1k to keep it from dying. My ecu is reading my TMAP sensors. i ran a vacuum test and we had a leak at the BPV and around the intercoolers. i plan on replacing it ASAP. 

 

I know the IDLE  is ran by the ecu from the inputs but is there any where in the software where i can where it's set at to run when it's suppose to idle on it's own?

update: My local Mini mechanic is saying the car is running too rich to idle.

 

Edited by TECH12
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Hi,

It sounds like you have someone looking at the problem now. Is the MAP sensor reading correctly?

For your idle control settings have a look at ECU Settings > Idle Speed Control. 

To see what the Idle speed control is doing open your runtime values window (F12 key) and change to the Auxiliary tab. There you will find 'Idle Target', 'Idle Position', and 'Idle Status'.

 

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Thanks, i'll have to look at the settings once i get ahold of the car again.  i asked him to look into the TMAP and MAP sensors. That's the area i was concerned with, the sensors going out or the wiring to them. during my rebuild i didn't move the TMAP from the manidold, and i left the vacuum tube on the other MAP sensor. He was asking if the OBD2 still worked to look up any codes. Since i have the link g4+ extreme with the latested firmware everything should be unlocked. Is there anything i need to set up through my computer to unlock it for him? The ECU has already been unlocked with the code from the dealer. 

 

2005 R53 MINI COOPER

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You may not always see a fault code or warning. What Scott was trying to get at was the available throttle by pass air. Even under abrupt/immediate deceleration of engine speed, the engine should have enough air to maintain a stable idle at a constant engine speed. If the engine doesn't have sufficient air through the throttle by pass then the engine will stall in an immediate manner.

If keeping your foot on the throttle tenables the engine speed to remain stable at about 1000 rpm, then this hints at what I was explaining above. Also, if the engine runs richer than it needs to be with fuel then this doesn't help the situation. It would be a great idea to fit a lambda meter to the exhaust system of the engine, this will help diagnose problems like this and similar.

Cheers!

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Thanks sardengineering. Yeah I have a innovate Motorsport lc-2 wideband O2 sensor running in the exhaust system. I need to get ahold of my car to see the tables Scott is referring to. But yes I have to ligtly press the throttle to keep the rpms at 1k. 

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Great, I think that you should be okay to resolve the problem going forward. The LC-2 is a good lambda meter and it should serve you well.

Thinking things over TPS (as well as MAP calibration) comes to mind since the application in question uses an Electronic Throttle? In instances where an E-throttle module is present the throttle opening itself acts as the bypass rather than an actual valve.

I haven't ever used the OBD-II output but if wired and configured correctly the OEM OBD-II port should work as normal. Within the software you can enable the appropriate CAN output as well as the stream being sent out to be OBD-II. The documentation shipped with your ECU or feedback from your dealer should help you validate the wiring from the ECU to the OEM OBD-II port.

Looking forward to a positive resolution for you, cheers!

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Here is a tale showing the current OBD data available from a Link ECU. To read the fault codes of the ECU you will need to connect via the tuning cable as the Link ECU has many fault codes which are specific to the brand.

OBD.PNG

Edited by Scott
Typo
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Thanks Scott, I'm going to be saving that image for future reference. i appreciate the help from everyone thanks. sorry for the delay i've been out of town. I just got my car back from my mechanic, he didnt see any issues with compression or vacuum leaks. i just pulled the injectors and they are bigger than what my map is set up for, so im going to get with my tuner and see what he wants to do. This might explain why its running so rich. 

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The table is from the PCLink help file, on the OBD page, Good to hear you've found something and are making progress. If you are using the 'Traditional' Fuel mode then reducing the master fuel setting will help. If you are using the modelled fuel mode then setting up your injectors correctly in the software should correct things.

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