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joshkoltes

Setup and adjustments

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Is there a wiring diagram from vipec that could tell me the bare bones basic amount of wires I'd need for this? It's to the point where it would be easier to start over by building a new wire harness and throw the Polaris one in the trash

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how do I permantly turn off my throttle safty switch? I can turn it off and save an.volt 4 which is preprogrammed to be the throttle safty switch, but every time I cycle the power it comes back. it is also one of the red fault code 19 anvolt4 above error high value. funny part is its totally gone unpinned from the ecu 26 pin plug and all the extra wires removed

fixed the voltage drop problem, it was the female sensor ground pin in the 26 pin connector wasn't making a good connection. but still I get the red faults. started it and now it functions correctly I think. it at least revs past 6000 rpm and for some reason the afr's are in sink. BUT I shut it down for a couple seconds to re arrange some wires and it wouldn't start again? it was acting like the first ecu when I would pull the rope, it would fire and that's it. I started recording and forgot to save it but what I saw was the bap would drop to zero when I pulled the rope and shoot back up after the crank. I did have the external battery plugged in. I tried it without the batt and same thing, then with the batt again and it started really rough like it was flooding. nursed it for a second and it cleaned up.

the problem repeated and I recorded it twice

Log 18-04-17 rough start.llg

Log 18-04-17 rough start 2.llg

Edited by joshkoltes

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that safety switch is certainly the problem. I can keep the power hooked up so it dosnt reset the anvolt4 back to throttle safty switch on and it starts right back up every time. as soon as I removed power it just fires and dies until I go back in and turn anv4 off again, then it fires right up

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I dissected my old throttle lever to remove the resistors, re soldered them together nicer and made a circuit back from the sensor gound to the tss pinout and it seems to work. I was concerned it might start but not rev up but I just tried it and it works. reading the help page sort of helped too. its reading 3.95 volts I believe.

now these red faults I'm still getting are bogus, nothing is failing, everything seems to be working like it should? as far as I can tell anyway? I'm going to go try ride it tomarrow see if I cant burn it down. ill have to do a bunch of reading since I have no idea how to make adjustments to the ecu? I don't even know what I'm looking for yet? I have a multi parameter gauge on my handlebars but this computer should read most of what it does, oh well itll be a good day for a walk back to the truck

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The red faults are just when analog inputs go beyond the fault settings you define. If for instance you disconnect a sensor this will happen.  It is unlikely anything to worry about.  You can disable them by setting the low to 0V and the high to 5V.  Then clear the fault codes after that.

MPdhtXZ.png

 

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I got ahold of turbo performance today and he told me the same thing, and showed me how to clear them. it seems to get rid of them I needed to click "clear ecu fault codes" under the ecu controls tab on the top of the page! and here ive been scouring the wire harness for weeks for no reason haha

he stayed on the phone with me for a very long time showing me how things work and I'm grateful, although its way more information than I could retain in one bite.

I got up to the hill late and made a couple logs, and it seems I either have a boost leak or my new turbo is toast. I should have tried more tests like securing the waste gate fully closed, setting my data logger to fuel pressure or selecting record oops,

it could be a fueling thing too, my secondaries never ran but I never got boost either but I believe the secondaries only fire when I reach a high enough kpa which was never achieved?

 

firsttunefallonface2.llg

firsttunefallonface3.llg

Edited by joshkoltes

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