sherm747 Posted April 13, 2019 Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 Hello, Quick brief of the story so far, i had a Vipec v88 on my 3rz powered corolla but have upgraded to a Link Xtreme. I sold the v88 in 2016 and the car has rested until now.I made a new engine harness and purchased the Link Xtreme but found I couldn't just load the tune into the new ecu. So i copied it all over manually and have tested injectors/spark etc. I am getting nothing from the Cam sensor, both the cam and crank triggers are standard other than the crank having a 12t disc instead of standard. The crank signal is working no problem as tested through the Trigger scope and the trigger signal for the crank is turning to yes while cranking. Can someone please run their eye over the trigger settings and maybe give me some things to try? I have tried a new Cam sensor and have triple checked the wiring, I have the signal wired to trigger 2 and the other side is to sensor/shield. I have attached a photo of the trigger scope and the tune is also attached. Thank you very much, Kyle Vance. luxy 13 4 19 420pm.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 14, 2019 Report Share Posted April 14, 2019 There is nothing wrong with your settings, there is definitely no signal from the cam sensor. What does it have for a cam sensor - is it inside an old distributor/CAS or is it a dedicated cam sensor. If you unplug the wiring off the cam sensor and measure the resistance between each pin to ground, is either pin shorted to ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherm747 Posted April 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2019 Thanks for the reply, It’s a dedicated cam sensor, one pin/wire shorts to ground the other doesn’t. I assume that’s the shield/Ground wire. Currently one wire goes to trigger 2 and the other is connected to shield/Gnd, is this correct? The cam sensor is the standard one that triggers off the inlet cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 Can you try swapping the wires on the cam sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherm747 Posted April 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 Yes i tried that and nothing changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 It seems like a wiring problem to me if there is no signal at all coming through. Another quick test you can do is swap the trig 1/2 pins at the ecu plug. Then if you get a signal on trig 2 and nothing on trig 1 it confirms wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherm747 Posted April 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 Ok great thanks. I have tried that, it did exactly as you said. Wiring wise i just have trigger 2 going to one side and both the crank and cam grounds joined with the shield into the shield/gnd pin next to the triggers, does this sounds right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 It appears the cam sensor signal is being shorted to ground somewhere. If you unplug the sensor and measure resistance between ground and each of the sensor wires coming from the ecu you should see near zero ohms on one pin and very high resistance on the other. Can you confirm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherm747 Posted April 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 I’ve just tested as above, had -0.4 on one wire and 46k ohmz on the other. Does this sound right? I ran two new wires from the ecu to the sensor and still nothing. I haven’t pulled apart the connector at the sensor end though so tonight I will and make sure they are terminated well etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 16, 2019 Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 33 minutes ago, sherm747 said: I’ve just tested as above, had -0.4 on one wire and 46k ohmz on the other. Does this sound right? Yep, thats about right. So are you sure the ground side of the sensor is connected to the ground pin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherm747 Posted April 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 I'm not entirely sure which side of the sensor is the ground side but i switched them over after trying to crank and it made no change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 16, 2019 Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 Earlier you said that one of the cam sensor pins had continuity to ground. Can you confirm that again, it looks like it has a mostly plastic body so its hard to imagine how it would be grounded through the body. Here's the pinout: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherm747 Posted April 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 Yep no problem, I'm away from the car but will be at the shed in a few hours, ill reply tonight and let you know. Thank you for all the help so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherm747 Posted April 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 I checked tonight and the sensor itself Doesn’t have continuity to ground on either side, just the shield/gnd side of the harness does. I’m really stumped on this one. Anything else you can think of to try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherm747 Posted April 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2019 On 4/16/2019 at 2:55 PM, Adamw said: Earlier you said that one of the cam sensor pins had continuity to ground. Can you confirm that again, it looks like it has a mostly plastic body so its hard to imagine how it would be grounded through the body. Here's the pinout: Do you have any more advice on this? I'm really stuck on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 18, 2019 Report Share Posted April 18, 2019 Not really sorry, we have proven the ECU trigger 2 input is working when we swapped the trig 1/2 pins earlier, so assuming there is actually a tooth on the cam and the cam is turning around then it is either the wiring or the sensor - there is nothing else involved. If you unplug the loom at the ECU end and measure resistance between pins A7 & A9 (gnd & trig 2), do you get the ~1200ohms that the sensor is quoted to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherm747 Posted April 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2019 Thanks Adam, i checked between A7 and A9 and had ~1186 so that's all ok. Over the weekend i removed the cam cover and physically waved a piece of metal across the sensor, this produced the below result. The air gap between the sensor and the pickup on the cam is large, its approx 8mm. The sensor is in the factory location so I assume that's as manufactured. The camshafts are the same as previously used so I know it used to work with the v88. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 30, 2019 Report Share Posted April 30, 2019 1 hour ago, sherm747 said: The air gap between the sensor and the pickup on the cam is large, its approx 8mm. The sensor is in the factory location so I assume that's as manufactured. No that doesnt sound right at all. The gap would typically be less than 1mm. If you are sure of your measurement then it must have the wrong sensor fitted. Did it have a missing tooth crank wheel before with the V88? It would still start with a missing tooth wheel and no cam, but it wont work with a multitooth crank and no cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherm747 Posted April 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2019 Yeah I'm definitely right with the measurement. Its the same sensor and cam as before, could there be a reason it worked before but not now? No its always had a multi tooth wheel on the crank. Thanks again for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 30, 2019 Report Share Posted April 30, 2019 Is your sensor about 30mm length from the flange to the tip like the drawing above shows? No I cant see a reason it would have worked with multitooth and no cam sensor, but Im also highly doubtful the cam sensor would have ever been able to generate a voltage with an 8mm air gap so it seems something has changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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