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DomsE36Garage

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  1. Hey guys, thanks very much for the tweaks. I only made the changes Adam suggested to see how they'd go, so far so good I think! Obviously can't test too thoroughly being stationary but initial rev tests seem to be looking promising! After a rev it drops down to about 1000-1200rpm and settles from there, so that seems like it's behaving really well in comparison. Now i'm not familiar with checking logs, but I took a quick log post changes that I'd like you to have a look at to see if it's looking better from your end. Thanks again guys, really useful information and confident I can tweak f
  2. Thanks mate, I'll try to process all that and certainly utilise your tips if I can figure out what I'm doing haha! @Adamw, is there a simple video showing me how to modify and commit these values? I've watched your other useful videos about similar things, I just don't want to stuff anything up. Also I'm sure there's an easy way to modify the values in a batch rather than me changing a value one by one!
  3. Thanks Adam, I'll give it a try over the next few days and will report back. Much appreciated!
  4. Adam, unfortunately I couldn't get it to replicate the stall exactly. It was however struggling a little bit to get back to idle when I was out there revving it. See attached log. E36 stalling - no stall.llg
  5. Yeah sorry Adam, thought of that after posting. Just popped out and grabbed the log and tune for you mate, the last 30 seconds was where I was just revving it and letting it die. See attached. Please note, the car was professionally dyno tuned by a Link dealer, and i'm not very familiar with the PC Link interface, so bare with me. It's also 9pm at night here, so won't be able to test things out till tomorrow Thanks in advance. AaronDomio_E36_Bosch040_3582_180kpa_98_04 Current 2020 Tune.pclr E36 stalling.llg
  6. Hey guys, after a bit of help/suggestions. My turbo E36 325i (M50B25TU w' Garrett GT3582r) running the Link G4 pnp runs beautifully at full noise and can take me around a track at 100% all day long without issue. However, if I put the car into neutrel or put in the clutch to come to a stop, the car will stall completely. It looks like the rpms drop pretty low (around 500rpm) and try to climb again but stalls out post revving...see attached video. I'm not sure if it's ecu related or potentially vacuum related etc. Hoping for some good suggestions on where to start. https://
  7. Cheers Adam, keen to hear how you go with the BT CAN setup. At the moment I just charge my dash to 100% before I go out for a race day and works ok so far
  8. Yeah awesome Mario, instructions would be great. I might look into this. Out of curiosity, how do you charge your tablet when hooked into CAN? Does it free up the USB port for normal charging? I still haven't successfully managed to charge whole sending data to the tablet.
  9. I had similar issues with mine too, I had to plug a mouse and thumb drive etc into the OTG cable and tablet before it picked up the OTG connection. So you are best off rebooting the tablet and testing until you can get the OTG cable to pick up a usb device on your tablet. Once you are succesfull with that, try it in the car again and make sure you have the car turned to accessory or whatever activates your ECU. Hopefully realdash will then detect the ECU. I'm now 4 OTG cables in with no success on getting the USB and charging to work too, so it's just advise to say the issue is likely with you
  10. @Adamw Ok, so I did the wire on ECU pin 50 to ground and got a really weak spark on Cyl 1 coil and plug...so that's a good sign my wiring hack is working. I tested the same thing on Cyl 2 and got the same small little spark so that's good. I then plugged in the ECU and ran the ignition test on Cyl1 - No spark at all >>> Ran the ignition test on Cyl 2 - Really strong spark. So looks like I might have a Cyl1 igniter issue on the ECU. Can you tell me which and where the igniters are on the ECU and if the faulty/shorted one can be repolaced? I really don't want to have to buy an
  11. Yeah awesome, thanks Adam i'll try it out over the next couple of days to see how I go.
  12. Ok, looking at the wiring schematics: Green - ignition/12v power?? Black - signal to ECU Brown - ground So it looks like the black wire trails back to the ECU on pin 50 (i'll check continuity between pin 50 on the ECU plug and the black wire on the coil plug) How do I check 12v on the green wire? do I just test to a ground point to display voltage? For the brown, i can ground that to the engine no issues.
  13. Not sure how to do this (i[m not electrically minded, so hints would be great) Also not 100% sure how to check this either. I did a continuity test on all 3 coil plug wires, and two of the 3 have continuity to ground on the engine, the 3rd wire doesnt. (Test may be irrelevant but I get the same results on the working coil plugs) If the ground wire is either brown or green, yes, I checked continuity back to the motor succesfully.
  14. Is there an igniter for each coil on the ECU or a single igniter for all coils? I traced the wires back to the potential short and replaced them. I also replaced the coil with a working one and it's still not firing, I wonder if the short did damage the igniter, so if so, how would I check that?
  15. So with the car running, I removed the plugs from each of the coils 1 by 1. Unplugging each coil made the engine sound different EXCEPT for Cylinder 1. So I suspect Cylinder one isn't firing at all, plus Cyl 1 is the closest to where the fire was, so I was initially drawn to that cylinder. I'll try a compression test first to make sure that cylinder is OK, and then I guess I have to start testing coils and wires etc, but certainly sounds like that's where the problem lies. I can send you a log output of the session when the fire occurred, and then the session with the missfire if y
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