Mikau
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Posts posted by Mikau
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Seems to have done the trick, little bit of tweaking and more appropriate injectors would help I'm sure but it's loads better.
Only thing I'm unable to pin point at the moment is the Neutral/Park Switch. I see it's available over CAN but what signal is the Link expecting? I'd assume "0" for Drive and "1" for P/N? If a physical connection is required/preferred that shouldn't prove too difficult to make happen.
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2 minutes ago, Adamw said:
So is it no longer running a Toyota throttle?
Your Park/Neutral status doesnt change at all in your log. Either the HTG is not sending that status or you have not set up the ECU to receive it.
Apologies, it’s equipped with a Bosch 68mm DBW.
My assumption was Gear input was enough. Park/Nuetral is not configured on either side but I am able to assign an output via Can on the HTG.
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Currently the Gear Input is via Can as this car is currently equipped with an HTG Controller that's sending the signal. Is there a work around for this?
I'll re-enable idle Ignition control, and give your suggested tables a shot.
APS and TPS were calibrated prior by myself. I have Pedal Inputs to be sent as raw voltage via Can to the HTG (Stream 8) and sent back to the Link (Steams 9&10). They use a throttle control modifier they have dubbed "DBW Mod" to handle the cuts and blips during shifts. This being the case I was informed that Limp mode is triggered immediately at "Key On" unless in setup mode, I've yet to try tackling this problem myself.
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Currently trying to fix/correct my lack of DBW Idle. Long story short discovered the Tuner had left Idle configured as a CL IAC/Stepper and it had always idle hunted/surged. (From day one the car has been DBW) Wanting to correct this after discovering how wrong it was I took it upon myself to try and learn how to set this up proper with the help of several posts here on the forum and an HPA specific video.
Now while that's all fine and grand, I'm no tuner. Currently the car surges around target idle in both OL and CL, with the occasional bogging like the ecu has lost it's place. Upon putting the car in gear it also drops to about 5-600rpm, adding 1.0-3.0 to the Park/Neutral Step-up Table only seems to effect Idle when out of gear. I'm sure this is a clear misunderstanding on my part.
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
2JZ-vvti
Bosch 2200cc Injectors - I'm sure this alone doesn't help with idle but for the time being new injectors aren't in the budget
Pump - Aero 3.5 Brushless
BC 264 Cams
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I wanted to update this as the problem did come back, turns out the USB boards in my Lenovo laptop were dead/dying (apparently common for the L14 and similar years). Luckily the USB-C port is unaffected as far as I can tell, so a simple adapter and all is well for now.
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22 hours ago, Adamw said:
I havent seen any issues on the couple of win11 PC's I have. Do you have any dual tables set up Fuel/Ign/Boost/Throttle etc? Can you attach a copy of your tune?
It might just be this laptops installation of Windows enterprise edition (was a recycled/secondhand university staff laptop), can't say for sure.
What I can confirm is that reinstalling/rolling back to Windows 10 seems to have done the trick. I do however appreciate the help from yourself and Ko trying to make heads or tails of all this. Both on and off theres no sudden drops of response or studders taking place now.
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3 hours ago, Adamw said:
I think just unplugging the CANF will be the only test you need to do to confirm if it is something in that, there may be a stray copper strand or small solder bridge inside etc.
I was able confirm with and without the CanF connected the problem persists.
Luckily a more computer literate friend came by and noticed a huge spike on the laptop itself in CPU usage upon connecting to the link and almost max memory usage taking place. He suggested rolling back to windows 10 as that’s what was originally on the laptop when this setup was in the other chassis last year.
I’ll report back with results.
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16 hours ago, Adamw said:
Sounds like you probably have a cable connected to the CAN1 port that has the rs232 pins connected, this will interrupt pc comms. You need to use a CANF plug and have only CAN L/H pins connected.
I currently have the CanF plug in use and wires in place for only Can H/L. Ive yet to make it back to the shop but will remove the plug completely tonight to compare differences.
I’ll also pull the CanF plug apart and inspect for anything unusual. If nothing is found visually is there a way to test the rs232 pins themselves to confirm anything for you? -
17 hours ago, koracing said:
Ignition noise - non-resistor spark plugs - usb driver issues/PC laptop issues. If I ever have issues with connectivity on a G4+ I just go to the serial cable connection.
Solid point on drivers, I’m less skeptical of the ignition or physical hardware of the laptop as it was the native laptop from the previous chassis this was in prior.
By serial connection are you referring to the plug next to the harness headers on the body of the ecu?
15 hours ago, Adamw said:If you dont start the engine does it remain connected and responsive?
It will exhibit similar behavior when even the engine is not running I’ve discovered.
I did find a CANBus network collision in my new HTG setup that I thought was addressed. At the moment both the chassis, RealDash and HTG seem content. Not sure if perhaps I still have an issue and it’s related to this? -
First off - Not sure if this is the appropriate page but being as this occurred on a G4+ Fury it seemed the most appropriate.
Recently finished a car, all is well. Fire car up, connect, all goes as usual for the first 2-3 seconds as live data shows up then UI goes unresponsive on PCLink and the whole PCLink UI for that matter. After a minute or two data feed comes back with a slight delay for roughly another 2-3 minutes then proceeds to go unresponsive again. 50/50 shot after that if PClink comes back or goes unresponsive. Restart PClink and repeat.
Is there anything that might be causing the USB connection to not be happy that I'm unaware of?
OS is Windows 11 on a Thinkpad L14.To clarify this whole setup (2JZ, Harness and Fury) was transferred from a running car to another chassis. Nothing obvious is jumping out to me on what might be causing this so any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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On 12/26/2021 at 1:57 PM, Mikau said:
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays,
With the free time off work I've had time to start playing with Realdash more and have run into a bump with getting gear input to display properly. I'm currently using the DASH2PRO preset on the Link side of things and then I have the "Gear" on Realdash set to "Specific ECU Input" -> "Gear Shifter Position." Now in PCLink I can see all gear inputs correctly as 1-7, although on the Realdash side I'm only seeing "R" no matter what gear I might have the car in.
Edit: Although this might be more on the RealDash side I’ve had zero luck registering an account. Currently still waiting on support/admins to activate my account.Solved.
While setting up my custom layout in Realdash I selected the previously mentioned "Specific ECU Input -> Gear Shifter Position" this was incorrect and so was "Transmission -> Gear." The correct Gear Input in the Link preset was under "Body Electronics -> Gear." -
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays,
With the free time off work I've had time to start playing with Realdash more and have run into a bump with getting gear input to display properly. I'm currently using the DASH2PRO preset on the Link side of things and then I have the "Gear" on Realdash set to "Specific ECU Input" -> "Gear Shifter Position." Now in PCLink I can see all gear inputs correctly as 1-7, although on the Realdash side I'm only seeing "R" no matter what gear I might have the car in.
Edit: Although this might be more on the RealDash side I’ve had zero luck registering an account. Currently still waiting on support/admins to activate my account. -
Adam, moved GCU to CAN1 and we’re smooth on the tach again. Can only assume something I had in there upset the dash like you had guessed.
Thank you for the assistance!
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I’ll give it a shot and report back shortly.
That being the case on stream 2 (513) do you have any notes on what’s expected on bytes 2,3 and 6,7? As I have those assigned for AP Main and MAP currently as inputs to the GCU. Sounds like moving to CAN1 might be the move to make all around as you’ve suggested.
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2 hours ago, Adamw said:
No stream 3 is being sent on ID 1056. This is for the dash, it controls the coolant temp gauge, oil press gauge, CE light, and charge light. It shouldnt have RPM in there.
I believe when I needed to fit a second rpm signal in for the HTG controller I slipped it into the first free 2byte slot I saw. The multiplier needed in 513 for the dash would display 4K idle in HTG software, they lack the ability to scale/offset signals in their software atm I believe. Something I may need to request an adjustment for on their end.
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36 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Not sure it is relevant, but why do you have engine speed added to stream 3? It looks like Byte 1 is related to fault codes in my notes.
I had to add a multiplier of 4(iirc) to get the Mazda dash matched the the 2JZ rpm. The second output in stream 3 is for the HTG Trans controller which didn’t require a multiplier. Both co-existed prior to this hiccup without fault. I used a previous known hood tune with the same results.
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Sorry slipped my mind this morning.
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Recently my tachometer in my RX8 has gone rogue. I’ve checked the plugs to the back of the dash and verified the rpm via RealDash on CAN1 to match what Link is broadcasting.
The dash is the OEM Mazda unit and is currently on CAN2 and the CAN outputs pulled from a base file provided here on the forums by Adam. Just 48hours ago the tacho was silky smooth and now it’s very jerky and erratic. At some moments reading 500-800rpms lower while bouncing around. I had to take the frequency to 200hz (was 20hz prior) to get a semi functional Tach again.
CAN wiring still checks out and is properly twisted and terminated on both ends per standard practice. I’ve verified the signal on CAN2 with my HTG Trans controller that requires an RPM input to function and it matches spot on.
I have a replacement cluster in route as a possible fix if the current one is faulty. The only recent change in terms of CAN was the addition of RealDash but on CAN1 where as the OEM Cluster is on CAN2.
Anything I might want to put eyes on or double check?
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Adam is it possible to enable or add Internal Lambda Sensor (G4+ Fury in my case) to the serial stream for direct USB connections? Or is there perhaps a setting on the Realdash side that I'm unaware of?
Thanks.
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I’ll take your word for it Adam and appreciate the response. I’m away from my car/laptop at the moment I notice you mention turning CAN2 on? I’m new to PCLink but I don’t recall seeing anything in the configuration to enable or disable either CAN 1 or 2. Is this figurative or a literal switch in PCLink?
Thanks.
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In the final steps of wiring on my project and decided to use DI9/10 for CAN. From what I've gathered across multiple threads these two channels are required to be set to off in PCLink to allow bus data to transmit. I have 120 Ohms currently on the bus wiring (DI9/10 not connected) and was going to use the Fury as the end termination. Upon completing the necessary wiring to DI9/10 and retesting the leads I'm still finding a resistance value of 120 Ohms. Is only Can1 terminated internally or have I missed something inside the PCLink settings?
Acceptable TP/Target Error?
in G4+
Posted
Working on getting the DBW PID dialed in and noticed no matter how much I may sway the settings I always end up with 2-5% of TP/Target Error. Now realistically I wouldn't expect to ever bounce the throttle as shown in the log I've posted but occassionally taking my foot off the pedal quickly from full I can hear a slight bounce of the throttle blade and roughly 2-3% of error. Is this to be expected with the motor not running and is it an acceptable amount of error?
Throttle Body in Question is a Bosch 68mm
DBWPid.llg DBWPid.pclr