oversteer

No doesn't work for IC Temp, and Crankcase pressure, just shows 0 for temp and 29.4 for crankpress, should be 30 and 0 at the time. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NwGuFPcbtIPSnDFMVbRRbMY0Hgye5Q2N The 2 "new CAN" files are your configs with the rest of my tune and display latest version, so please mod from there... The 2 other files are my current configs that work, temp displays correctly, but won't show negative numbers, is there a way to pass this temp reading to dash as actual temp(not the exhaust cam deg I'm using now) so it will display positive and negative numbers? And crankcase pressure has been fudged in Cal table 1 so the display shows InMg correctly on dash, as a plain conversion from Kpa to InMg by dash takes the absolute Kpa number(ie 80 Kpa)and shows that in InMg... when actually its 20Kpa of vacuum that needs to be converted ! Problem with the fudge is that i can't read positive crankcase pressure ! Is there a better way of doing this ? (has to be ! my fudge is ugly) Displaying +ve and -ve pressure in InMg would be best, or Kpa if that can't be done. Thanks

Ok they are quiet different than what Adam listed above, I take it that 8v should be 1.52ms ? Where did you find those figures ? Always run higher fp with large injectors it can help produce a better atomisation at small openings and also for higher capacity, calcs say I need maybe 2600cc to for hp goal !

Plug lead break-out thing to get timing light to work with COP is at dyno room, so I can't check that right now.... unless you know of some trick to get timing light to pick up on cop with out putting lead between coil and plug !? Car seems to run the same after moving cam sensor.... the link does use the crank 12 teeth for actual timing events does it not ? So it must still be using the same ref otherwise it would be 30 degree's out ?

OK cut and re-welded cam sensor bracket, moved sensor ~5.5mm anti clockwise, result looks pretty good on scope... good enough Adam ? Moved scope ; Original Scope ; Trigger scope log in google drive link folder above.

OK thanks, it would be the cam grinder that didn't base time the cams very well.... seen it before with his cams, always trouble to set-up ! So 7 degree's on cam will get me dead in the middle of zone, so maybe if i modify the cam sensor mount I can move it 2-3 degree's and it should be enough !? Looking at trigger scope the best direction to go to get away from crank trigger is to fire the cam sync later ? So roll it around clockwise from current position around 4mm from a quick scribble on a piece of paper, something that can be done in car !

That's not easy to do to this motor, only way i can think of right now is to hope there is enough adjustment on cam wheel degree slots and maybe move the cam belt over a tooth......any way to tell how many degree's i need to move cam sync ? Pretty much impossible to degree cams with engine in car.... its drop engine trans and cross member to get it out, hmmm. further.. This engine actually has 2 tone rings on crank pulley, one is 12 tooth and the other is 1 2 3, an called "sync" in FSM, does the cam sync have to come from the cam wheel ie half crank speed ? any way to use a single tooth on crank 2nd tone ring to sync ? Would have to be a better signal with not cam/belt issues..

Not with a Thunder, it can to Hi and Low.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NwGuFPcbtIPSnDFMVbRRbMY0Hgye5Q2N Should trigger scope, tune file and a log file with some data...

Latest tune file to set-up can stream....would be better to use that previously posted one ... EG33E851.0.pclr

Any comments of the trigger scope ? Can better trigger levels be worked out from log ?

trigger scope without any changes since last log(although i did a little touch up to ethrottle and ing to make it run better while i was driving!) After that i changed the dead time and it made world of difference....idles better than it ever as ! ... trying to upload 74K log file, says only allowed 20Kb....I assume its adding up previously uploaded files, so deleted one above, still says 20Kb ! Will convert trigger scope log file to picture ... trigger scope after changing deadtimes with a nice idle, had to add a lot more fuel back in, 4ms setting and 10+ to fuel table.

OK will do trigg scope when i can. Just looked at log, you can see the error counter only increases at idle, at any sort of load and rpm no errors get counted....

No I have not sorted the issue with the EMP pump, full speed is all i need for upcoming race so I haven't tried to play with that, but will in future !

The dead times I'm using were detailed by you here -> They are the same as detailed elsewhere for those injectors, yellow bullet iirc... should I go with the ones you suggest here ? Trigger errors in log i suspect is because the way it idles rich on E85, its pretty rough, last time on dyno on 98 it did throw a couple of trigger errors so levels were adjusted and it was better... I may need to move sensor air gap a bit, I did set them up at .5mm, which depends who you talk too may be a little close.... any suggestions on what gap to use on a subaru mag sensor ?

Have installed the larger injectors and switched to E85 ready for power tune, and are having a bit of trouble getting less fuel at idle and light cruise..... Running Siemens Deka 220lb with 550cc per cylinder on a 6cyl Subaru, switched the tune over that was running 630 Siemens Deka's with pump 98 which was tuned fairly good to run in engine, changing master fuel number from 10ms to 3ms and injector dead time numbers the car is .7 lambda at idle or cruise, give it a bit of load and rpm and its in the .9's so it drives ll right. Changing fuel map or adding -ve fuel trim does nothing to reduce inj pw any further.... Have also changed the "min effective pulsewidth" number to 0, if its set to 1.5ms the actual pulsewidth is around 3ms minimum....which is lots of corn juice out the pipes ! Is there something I'm missing here ? On the face of it I would think this may normal, big sloppy injectors on 550cc a cyl and can't get idle lean enough, however I have another subaru here, 4cyl 2.35 ~585cc a cylinder running slightly less compression(8.1 vs 8.3 for 6cyl) and a M800 that will idle in mid .9 lambda, same fuel pressure. Tune and short log attached... e85 220d s.llg

Get a chance to look at this Adam ?

Ok thanks for your thoughts on this cj, I think the factory wiring should be fine, subaru have done pretty good job on 2004+ models. Just fitted VR38 coils to a mates 92 RS Lib running a M800, did some testing around the place and things were not great, 1v+ drop to injectors ! usual culprit the main relay actually tested good(been replaced couple years ago), ran another power feed from batt and 40A relay to run ECU, coils, inj and new earths to M800 and it was solid voltages all around, car was miss firing at 2.1bar+ >7200rpm on dyno(670whp, 6466 Ej2.35 E85), should go 700+hp @ 2.3bar now which is stout...owner wants 9sec 1/4 mile and 290Kmph+ on 1000m, clutch gearbox and driveshafts are on death row !

Back probing the ecu plug gave the same reading, as where i was testing before, But it seems the voltage reading low issue is with the AIM dash ! Having all three read outs side by side(MM, Dash, PCLink) its the dash display that's ~0.4v low, looking at the dash config the "volts" defined in the display is "internal", I assumed like everything else on the display page it was pre-defined as ECU ! Changing the dash config to ECU volts the MM, pclink and dash now read <0.1v different. Not sure why the dash would be getting that much voltage drop on ~600mm of 18g tefzel wire powered from main ignition relay circuit(just like ECU). Care factor of chasing that volt drop is low so it should be fine left alone ! On a slightly different but related note, would there be any benefit in upgrading the factory circuit/power feed that supplies Injectors, coils and ECU since I am now running low impedance injectors and higher power coils(vr38) ? I assume the low imp injectors would draw more current than the factor ones at rpm(is there a significant difference to peak and hold vs saturated?) And I have seen comments on vr38 coil kits for rb's and sr's etc which come with "upgraded" coil harnesses to handle higher current(although no mention of the rest of the vehicle wiring regarding higher current requirements/upgrades !) Testing voltages at injectors and coils etc checked out good testing at idle, can't see any issues, but I would think it would need to be done at rpm and load ..... just wondering if its worth it to add another fuse, relay and wiring that would end up far shorter and have better and less plugs/contacts than the factory stuff that was i guess not designed for this performance level !?

MM is clipped to the pins of a Deutsch plug used for bench powering ecu etc, that is spliced into the A5 and A34 wires ~40mm from loom plug A. I have been comparing the MM to laptop or dash. Seems a bit of issue with comparator network in ecu, anyway to fix ?

My thunder reads batt volts low by 0.4 volts, I noticed this when i first bench powered the ECU to set it up using a lipo jump starter pack, ecu showed mid 11 volts when pack as around 12v, but didn't think much of it, it still worked. Now i have ecu in car I was closely monitoring volts as my alt needs upgrading and does not keep up with fans, pumps etc etc, I have a billet 270amp(150 at idle) on the way. I have tested voltage drop across earths and power feeds from batt to alt to fuse boxes relays to engine block and ecu plug(all upgraded over factory my05 subaru wiring which is pretty good to start), there is no more than 0.1V drop across any 12v line and 0.02V across any earth, I have my Fluke MM(which is accurate and concurs with my lithium battery display and my other MM by 0.01V) probing the 12v feed and earth on loom plug A and the ECU shows 0.4-0.5V to lower, this gets worrying when batt is reading 13.2V and the ECU says 12.8/7.... Not sure its causing any issues, but its not right, is there any way of calibrating ECU ?

Did you get a chance to look at this Adam ?

Ok that's what RS3 saves it as, but if i do a export config i get the .zconfg file ! Attached. MXS 1.2 Strada EG333.zconfig

Hi Adam Can you help set-up the dash CAN data like you described above ? I'm needing to get another temp reading(AN4 Temp) to the dash, there are not any temp streams left that I can re-purpose to send this data, I have tried using other things like cam timing and it seems to do some math because the numbers that come through on the other end are not the same, tried using multiplier and offset but can work out what it needs! Link and dash config attached. mxs 1.2 strada eg333.aimcfg EG33AC1.pclr

Ok thanks for the info cj, I would of think the original ecu must get a speed signal from somewhere, maybe back from the dash through CAN ? I would greatly appreciate the info you have on the Subaru CAN bus ID's etc, I don't have a functional original ECU anymore as i cut the plug off it to make link harness ! It would be good to have the dash gauges functional and no error present, I do have the AIM MXS dash in the car, but that won't always be there for daily driving as I have had issues in the past with cowboy cops that see an aftermarket dash display and don't like it.... Cops in Western Australia have been a campaigning for a while now against modified cars, we have the toughesh laws in the country that basically don't let you do much with out full engineering and even then its very limited ! Cheers

Ok thanks guys, I have found the airbag DTC section in the manual which should enable me to get codes and find whats wrong. I did terminate/add resistor to the ECU end of the Subaru can bus, that actually made the fuel gauge respond to resistance at the tank end and stop flashing but it didn't clear the Err HC, I did not connect the Subaru can bus to the link, if i did does anyone know how to produce the can data to stop the dash error and make gauges work ? Also its not listed in the ECU pinout but i have been told in the past that there is a speed signal(comes from ABSHU) at the ECU plug....anyone know what pin that might be ?