SchuKingR
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Posts posted by SchuKingR
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On 4/19/2023 at 2:42 PM, SchuKingR said:
Okay thanks for the explaination
I'm using the dual track sensor from the OEM mazda throttlebody. So the linkage shouldn't be the problem... maybe the sensor is dying. I try to source another one.
I will change e-throttle target as well. Once again thank you very much!
had the error at longer drives again. Changed to a contactless sensor then. Works flawless until now.
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Just wanted to share that I hopefully solved my problem. The auto tps calibration could not work, because there is a point, where the single lower throttle blade actuation switches to drive the upper two with it. At this point, the auto tps calibration thought, that the throttle is jammed, because of the more force needed to actuate the other two blades. So I started the auto tps calibration and gave the actuator a little helping push at that point.
So now only TPS main/sub calibration could not be finished, because it was at that point again. But I had the min and max voltages now, so I manually gave it more and more throttle until sub was at 100% and wrote the main % down.
After all of that I did a 20km test drive without any issues
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Yes. One sees the full range and one only like 40% or so. In the tps settings there is a setup for this. So the ecu knows that.
I will try to use my old voltage values from before I converted to E-throttle and see if this works. Normally it should work, because i never had any errors with the mechanical setup.
I forgot that I have this values.
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Okay thanks for the explaination
I'm using the dual track sensor from the OEM mazda throttlebody. So the linkage shouldn't be the problem... maybe the sensor is dying. I try to source another one.
I will change e-throttle target as well. Once again thank you very much!
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I have another log from today morning. One TP error at 5:29 and one minDC error at 15:46. Don't know why the minDC keeps getting lower and lower, but I fix this by adding another 5%.
I don't have any idea how to fix the TP error... can someone please help me or guide in the right direction?
Log: https://drive.google.com/file/d/154ohzquwaVrVoqAG0CtQolriRRFXnGJH/view?usp=share_link
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just wanted to give an update. I think with a 4% E-throttle up to 2000rpm and proportional gain at 3 and anti-stall at 5 it looks really promissing. Now I'm fighting some new errors, that I did'nt had before. First was E-throttle minDC fault. Fixed that by giving it 5% more DC. Now I have a TP main/sub error...
To calibrate TP main and sub, I turned off the E-throttle actuator and manually closed and opened the throttle and wrote down the voltages like I read in another thread with the S54 actuator, because auto calibration didn't work.
Today I did log my drive home and now updated the TP main and sub open and closed voltages as experienced in the log with throttle fully open and fully closed while driving. Is this the right thing to do or is there another better way?
Edit: just took a look at the G4X software. there a whole lot more for the idle/e-throttle stuff. I think I need a G5 to replace my G4+ Thunder
release date?
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Thanks! I will try that, hopefully tomorrow. But what I don't understand, why lower the anti-stall gain? Or could this have caused the strange idle stuff in my garage?
and yes, I think the 4000rpm thing was a trigger error.
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Back from my test drive. It's heaps better than before. Car just stalled once where it wasn't fully warmed up. Most of the time it drops down to like 450rpm and then climbs back up.
Some weird stuff happend at the end as I parked the car in my garage. First it was idling well and all of a sudden the RPM starts to wave up und down as well as the TP. Could this be my idle proportional gain is set to high? Gave it a little throttle blip and the wave was gone.
Log file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/14BZJMqfH0i8A46M1iejsa_pzS7_3AwHR/view?usp=sharing
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hey guys. first of all thanks for the hints, I will try to go for a test drive tomorrow with the changes. I think I didn't tune the accel enrichment yet, so I will try to add a bit there. At 16:21 I think that was my brother in law starting to drive. He is not used to the car, so I think he just stalled it there.
I will also try the integral on the e-throttle, but as you say, DBW with linkage is a pain. I tried various different settings, so I can drive without the ECU shutting down the DBW.
And yes, I think only the primary port is working at idle. I think the secondary port opens later with the linkage, but I need to check that. I can try to hold the doublethrottle blades in the upper manifold closed.
The limit in the throttle position table is for our noise emission test here in germany. So the car is somewhat quiet there. As quiet as a rotary can be with a 3" exhaust
I like the version with the two tables! Thanks!
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Hey guys, I have a problem with my engine stalling when I'm disengaging the clutch right before a stop.
log file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/14AjoXD_bfFmJZk6Z4kxftiBuGgxcWZar/view?usp=sharing
pclink file attached.
Car is a Mazda FD with oem twinturbos and standard ports equipped with a G4+ Thunder. OEM throttle is controlled by an BMW actuator from a S54. Compression is good (7,7 bar all around).
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On 4/12/2020 at 12:35 AM, Adamw said:
If you had a spare Aux out you could do your analog input trick. Connect an aux direct to a DI with a wire link. Then set up the aux output to turn on when analog input is below say 3V.
The FD plug-in ECU has a zener diode and pull-down resistor added to bring the voltage down.
An easy option maybe to put 3 x silicon diodes in series with your DI, this will drop your voltage by about 2.1V.
managed to put 3 diodes in series with the DI. Now I got AC working at fan stage 1, but at no other stage. Will address this later, when renewing the whole wiring. Stage 1 AC is better than no AC
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On 8/9/2022 at 11:37 AM, Adamw said:
Doesnt sound related to this post, I think you have a different issue. Attach your tune and a log and some info about your engine setup..
Yeah I've just tested open loop Sol/Stepper again and it works fine. At some stage i've ditched my ISC aux configuration and just didn't realised it...
So open loop works fine. Next test will be closed loop to see if I have the same error with TP/AP Lockout. -
On 7/1/2020 at 11:09 AM, Adamw said:
You are right, I would have expected like you that AP should be used as the lockout when there is E-throttle in the system - even if the idle control is not via DBW. I just tested on the bench and found the same as you. So I suspect this is an oversight that no one has noticed before. I will get it logged as an issue to get it on the list of things to look at.
is this thing fixed in G4+? It seems to me that I've got the same error. Couldn't get my IACV to work after changing to E-throttle.
Idle status stays at "crank" the whole time...
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On 5/4/2022 at 12:09 PM, Adamw said:
No "use outside wheel based on accelerometer" function
Why was this feature never added to the Thunder?
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5 hours ago, juha said:
Do you have experience with this device
https://www.turbozentrum.de/CANchecked-MFD28-Universal-28-Display_1
A buddy of mine uses it with a G4+ Fury in his RX7. He is quite happy with it. It's also possible to do CAN switching with it. Changing boost maps for example.
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10 hours ago, Adamw said:
Set to wideband stoich mode. It will still target whatever lambda you require, just it is a slightly simplified strategy compared to auto mode.
Are there any negative effects by using this simplified strategy? Does the stoich mode fluctuates if lambda is around 1 like an OEM narrowband does, because of emissions?
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Hey!
I just realised, that it's possible to select the Bosch 0 261 230 340 Sensor as an integrated calibration in the G4X range. Is it possible to copy this into the G4+? That would give me two free calibration tables
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2 hours ago, mldc said:
sorry for offtopic, but what's the thing above the PDM? btw your setup looks pretty sexy!
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maybe it's the error with the firmware. There was a bug that have been solved in the new firmware 5.6.8.3671
It's new at the download section (not really mentioned in the changelog, same filename, but the firmware was added) or I'll attach it here. Give it a try -
firmware version? Maybe it's the same error someone on facebook had. It's a bug in the 5.6.8 firmware. There is a newer firmware available, but it's not online on the website yet.
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you have no E-Throttle Relay output configured as requested from the manual. And there is a point right before your problem, where your AN Volt 3 drops to 0.00V, where the error value you set is at 0.05V. Maybe one of these two things have something to do with it? Or did you recalibrate your APS? Just guessing. Not messed with E-throttle yet.
release date?
PCLink G5 UI graphical bugs
in G5
Posted
Just did that and got the issues started.
DxDiagDesktop.txt