S172

Hi Adam I tried the setting this morning and tbh a bit hit and miss but see what you think I’ve sent the log of it the tech email regards Scott

Cool I’ll change them settings and give it a test apart from this issue it drives really well so thanks for your help and time Adam I’ll let you know how I get on much appreciated

Hi adam the logfile is to be big to send over so i sent it to technical with the tune so if you want to pick it up from there .

Yes no problem i was asking about the e throttle PID as i read in the help information the D gain had a substantial effect on the throttle plate recovery so i was going to retune it as ive tried various bits and bats but i cant sort i atm

Hi guys could someone please remind me of the ethrottle PID set up ie the logging set up TP AP etc i did it once but it’s gone lol I’m having a slight issue on my Clio when I shut off the throttle and clutch down for whatever reason it’s cutting out like it’s not recovering

Yeah cool WhatsApp me scott

Yeah will do the only problem is when I put the I’d into the link with Ect mode set 77A / 1914 I haven’t got anything to operate on the dash temp gauge but I’ll set up the CAN sniffer and the stock Ecu again and video it guys what’s the best platform to send videos over on here obviously chat forum hasn’t space Scott

Right guys just tried the Ect set up with both offsets and signed and in signed nothing appeared to work unfortunately I was wondering if of various models they possibly change the ids depending on spec as my rpm I’d is on 1905 and then I set up the OEM Ecu powered up with a rheostat as the ect sender whilst connected to the obd 2 and found that 77A would appear when I connect the stat and only FA was permanent and when operating it did move my temp gauge now I’ve connected my link up to the CAN before the BCM so it only goes to the dash and obd2

Thanks for the help guys just a quick update I’ve managed to reverse engineer some bits in the last couple of days I found on my model mk2 Clio 172 cup no abs no traction etc I found the rpm on I’d 711 - 1905 on the link with the set up as follows just currently working to get the temp gauge operational I don’t completely understand the bytes and signed etc lol every days a school

This obviously the a screen shot of the video I recorded with running engine as the video even cropped is to much to up load

The car is a 2003 mk2 Clio 182 with very simple CAN system on it I tried sniffing the can at 500k through the obd but it will not talk to it I’ve tested my kit on some other cars and yeah 500k works fine as you said but on this it wouldn’t connect until 250k was sync with my obd2can I’ve got a video of what you said lots of ids changing then settle to maybe five and then just ignition on this is the information I was wondering can i not input on I’d just to see if I get a change on my dash on the temp gauge ? Had limited time with the vehicle as I’ve hard wired mine

Hi guys forgive my thickness already but I was wondering how to or is it possible to input say this CAN data as pictured into a fury and then try to test up the original factory dash this is a OEM CAR up to temp and only has revs and ect working off CAN I pulled this through the obd can at birate 250000 regards Scott

Cheers for that I’ll have a look over that link this is the last thing I need to sort now just getting the rev counter and coolant gauge up and running thanks again for the reply regards scott

Yeah there’s only the 3 brains it’s quite a simple CAN set up no abs no esp etc just the 3 but my understanding of this is limited could I wire straight to the dash and bye pass everything I want to retain stock as much-as possible I know the link has various presets how do I try these without doing any damage

Hi everybody I was wondering if anyone has had a mess around with any French can bus systems I’ve currently wired my 2003 Clio 172 turbo with a g4+ fury runs great got a map on it etc but I was wanting to keep the stock dash but the tacho and ect gauge work off CAN yeah I couldn’t believe it either crazy Anyways yeah my I’m slightly out of my league with the CAN side of things as the original wiring loom was ECU to BCM to the DASH do I go straight to the dash or would the dash need to see the bcm and the old Ecu ?

Yeah my PAS digital input goes active that’s all wired fine my step up is quite low now little as 0.1 as I try it on various levels and it’s seems to make things worse the more i increase the numbers this is a new game to me The ethrottle I’m probably doing something wrong although I’ve played with the link stuff before on mostly Toyotas but they’d all had separate icv and cable throttle bodies but I’ve recently wired a fury to my own Renault Clio Turbo with just the vdo tb on it everything else is fine mapped etc runs drives on boost etc just this niggle

Yeah the canister type one I know the one I was hoping to use something with smaller ports really but anyway the problem I’ve found Adam is when the pas is operated at low speed as I’ve said it seems to make the idle fluctuate and then cuts out I’ll attach a log and file on Monday when I get back out in it

Cool thanks for that Yeah believe me when I say it’s a bit of a test tbh I’ve tried ever setting parameters closed loop open loop ignition idle control etc available and I’ve got a pretty good idle tbh when you cruise to a half but say when parking and very slow manoeuvring it’s an absolute A hole So it’s a bit of a try out really not sure if it’s just a characteristic of my particular engine yeah and again I wasn’t quite sure if you had to use a stepper motor so I’m going to try a Mac valve

Hi currently running a fury g4+ running a ethrottle setup with both idle speed and throttle combined VDO tb no idle control on my particular motor my question is can you run a Mac valve or other 2 pin solenoid to control idle speed or does it have to be a stepper motor like most 3 pin 4 etc regards scott

Yeah just fine on the Renault rs 2 trigger setting

Yeah will do Adam I’ll sort a log and scope Yeah I’m confident in the trigger as like you said obviously it’s runs but I’m was leaning towards maybe a weak spark at low rpm as I’m not to sure if The Renault coil has built in igniters I have a loss of timing light flash but I’m probably going in to deep I probably need to step back and take a minute

Yeah I believe so about the wiring and the trigger it has 1 long tooth then one long gap OEM flywheel I have modified a flywheel ready but my plan was the run it up as near to stock as possible so I can get a good base map on it .and then start modifying tuning it .I can run it at various degrees btdc 20 etc at higher idle speeds but as soon as I try to get near stock 10 btdc and around 800 rpm it’s just gives up my Afr’s are good so yeah getting a bit pieed of lOl and it’s Cained a full tank of v max just messing about with this lol

Yeah I believe I’ve spoke to you about this before Adam as it’s Scott from mk autos I contacted you through Martin before yeah you did say after a few scopes I’ve sent previously that on the trigger ATH That was to use 0.2 and 0.3 I will do some more scoping later on it just doesn’t seem to like coming below a 1000 rpm

Clio 172 Hello just wondering if anybody has got a stable idle or the correct engine timing when using the original Renault trigger wheel 60 big tooth missing tooth etc before I bit the bullet and swap a machined flywheel I was hoping just to get a map on the original engine before I fitted a Garret on it I’ve got it running but can’t seem to get anywhere near 10 btdc with my timing light on it I’m currently on a -58 offset I’ve no e throttle faults or engine faults