bsh
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Posts posted by bsh
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If it is the Weber-Marelli trigger with the 4 tooth on crank, you use the "RS500"-trigger in software. Timing should be pretty spot on.
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This is a nice Caterham the customer built the engine and installed the Link Atom 2 ecu himself and I did the startup and tuning. Car runs very well and with an extremely crisp throttle response:) K-series engine with modified crank trigger.
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On 2/12/2020 at 12:06 AM, Stevieturbo said:
Or else just stick a 36-1 onto the crank pulley and use it instead ?
I will just wire in the sync:) Thanks
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On 2/10/2020 at 12:18 AM, Stevieturbo said:
As most aftermarket ecu's only look at the falling edge, which gives no position reference...I doubt it. Although if they could set the ecu to read the rising edge which does have a variety of tooth gaps, it could be possible.
Why not just add/use the cam trigger ?
I will run wasted spark and dont want to wire a cam sync if I dont have to since I will be using the Atom with 4 outputs..
On 2/10/2020 at 1:43 AM, Simon said:That one needs the CAM sync.
Ok thanks:)
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Hi,
Is it possible to use this trigger without cam sync?
Thanks
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36-1 is like other said the preferred trigger. I have tuned a lot of Cosworths with the stock crank and cam trigger working just fine.
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Tooth added, and fired up. Everything seems fine:)
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15 hours ago, rich74310misson said:
Hi guys. I have a major problem. I have a subaru 2l fully forged engine. It has updated injecters rotated turbo setup etc. Running link g4 ecu. Problem being it's been at the tuners for 5months. I don't know if he doesn't know what he's doing or what. Well any way to cut a long story short it made 279 bhp and 390 nm. He has told me it should make alot more. Apparently the problem isn't the engine setup. The car can't be driven on the tune he has done. Is there anyway that someone van look at the tune ?. I'm completely stuck now.
Regards rich
Something mechanical wrong with engine, like cam timing, clogged cat etc? What are the turbo capable of?
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11 hours ago, Simon said:
Unfortunately there is nothing existing for that. The other Rover patterns are 3 teeth missing at uneven spacing.
Maybe adding a tooth back so it becomes 36-1?
Ok. Thanks.
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Hi,
Is there a trigger mode that suits this trigger pattern? It is a Rover with a 18-1, 18-1 tooth on the cank. Trigger sees 17-gap-17-gap pr revolution. Running with no cam sensor and distributor. I started it configured as multitooth missing and 18-1 and as a 2 cyl just to get it running and check new built engine for leaks. Runs/idles very nice, but rpm are double of the actual. I have tried all 3 Rover trigger modes I could find in software, but seems all of them need a cam sync.
Thanks
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13 hours ago, Adamw said:
Hi Ben, I will PM you some instructions.
Edit - added later: Note you can also connect the dash via serial and it will work without the CAN mod, this is just a bit painful though as you cant have the laptop and dash connected at the same time - you have to unplug the dash when you want to tune.
Thanks:)
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Do you have a stable rpm while cranking about 200 rpm? Are trig1 and trig2 green? (runtimes-triggers to check status)
Have you confirmed that the coils are working/wired correctly? You can do an ignition test via the software to activate each ign output. Very nice function. You can do the same with the injectors also, but be careful not to flood the engine with fuel...
Btw I love the 2JZ:)
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On 10/30/2019 at 7:43 AM, Adamw said:
Its not much of a log but it doesnt look to far off working now.
A couple of suggestions:
In the idle control settings, chjange the AP/TP lockout to 1%.
Fix the ignition table and the idle ignition table. Remski's idle ign table above is what I would expect to typically see.
For the ignition table I would expect to see numbers around 10deg in the area I have marked pink, and 30-40deg in the area I have marked green (with some blend in between these areas and the surounding cells).
Regarding the ignition table, the cells from 0 kpa and lower, are way off... I would copy the base map table and fine tune from there. (0 kpa to -20 kpa @ 4000 rpm to 5000rpm look decent)
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If I remember correctly, the instrument need a tacho signal for the oil light to switch off. Check the wiring to the tacho. When tacho works, the oil light will switch off again (as long as there are oil pressure)
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1 hour ago, Simon said:
Yes it is able to, The ECU will need a hardware upgrade to allow can.
Thanks. Can you provide instructions on how to upgrade hardware, or must it be shipped to Link?
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Hi, will the Link AIM Strada MXS work with the the old V44 serial 6676?
Thanks
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Thanks:)
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Anyone?
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I have an Evo 2 that I have converted to coil on plug, and the tacho dont need high level signal. It will work with an aux-output setup as Tacho like most "newer" cars do. The plugin ecu should already have a tacho output taken care of. I assume you are using the plugin ecu for an Evo 1-3 vehicle?
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3 hours ago, John Appel said:
On our twin cylinder motorcycle engine we have two throttle bodies.Engine has equally spaced firing intervals. Because of ITB we are using TPS for the load axis on our fuel and ignition tables. The EFI tuning books say using MAP for load axis on ITB engines does not work because there is no plenum chamber to smooth out the vacuum pulses from each port. In our inlet ports we have tappings for vacuum pipes. Currently we have these plugged up. I have been told that even though we are using TPS we should still connect the two vacuum tappings to the Link G4 Storm using a Y junction and rubber hose. This would smooth the pulsations to some extent but not much. Can the Link make sense of such a highly fluctuating signal. Does it have some form of electronic smoothing circuitry to deal with this problem. How does the Link make use of this vacuum signal when I am using a miilisecond base fuel table and TPS for load. Any advice.
Regards, John
I wouldnt bother with map sensor as long it is an NA-engine. I prefer using TPS as load with ITB. If it is turbo, then use both map and tps.
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Hi,
Anyone have a decent setup we can start with? Engine is a Mitsubishi 4G15 running a GT2860R with a 36 mm restrictor. 302 whp running on E100. Running with an oem Audi 1.8T DBW throttlebody. Antilag will be activated via a digital input.
Thanks
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Ah great, thanks for excellent support:)
btw do you never sleep?
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Hi,
A rally car that needs 2 more analog inputs for EGT (not Can). Have 2 free, but need 2 more for 4 EGT in total... Temp3 and Temp4 are free, but suppose they cant be used as 0-5V inputs as they have pullup?
Car use DBW. Can I use only one anaalog for TP Main and one analog for AP Main, and get rid of TP Sub and AP Sub and run it in setup mode as it isnt used for the road and ditch failsafe? Then I have 2 more analog inputs free:)
Thanks
G4 link new E-throttle module wiring
in G4+
Posted
Hi, is it possible to use the e-throttle module with only 1 pedal position? Using a volvo pedal with only 1 analog output to pedal main and none for the pedal sub? (pedal assembly also have a pwm output which I believe cant be used?)
Thanks