BikeMurgunder

I guess I have another question about pressure sensors then. Do all the Link branded pressure sensors read vacuum or just the "map" sensors? I am probably over thinking this, but does it make sense to use "absolute" sensors for everything?

Hello all! I have installed a few new Honeywell MIP sensors for various things and I want to make sure I have everything set correctly. Could you please take a look at the settings here and let me know if i screwed anything up? For pressures, I am using the 100psi (MIPAN2XX100PSAA) sensors for oil pressure, coolant pressure, and boost pressure. I am using the 100psi (absolute, MIPAN2XX100PAAA) sensors for MAP. For my cal tables, I have them set as follows: Table 4 (100psi gauge): Input A: .50v Input B: 4.50v Units: PSI Output A: 0 psi Output B: 100 psi Table 6 (100psi absolute) Input A: .50v Input B: 4.50v Units: kpa Output A: 0 kpa Output B: 588 kpa

Quick FYI for 2GR people. The heads are labeled on the trans side of the heads. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Dnk_21ueZ6vJwvT8H0GF2TT8-0Yx8YHd/view?usp=drivesdk

Thanks Adam! Appreciate the quick response!

I have a question about the maximum wiring length for the main bus length. The help file says 15 meters long. Does this factor in the twisted wiring? Or is it assuming 15 meters of wire, then twist the wires? I only ask because with my MR2, the ecu is in the trunk so I am trying to figure out optimal routing based on the wire length I have to work with. Thanks!

My RH cam sensor had a 1.5k ohm (I didn't have a 1K for trigger at the time). So it seemes to react better than the other cams that had 2.2K? That make any sense?

Log here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OQxXDor54qhQw_6GjlT-XwkGNhJpJEuo/view?usp=sharing Cold start with all 4 cams set with max clamp 20%. Errors are still there on all cams except RH inlet. I am going to open the loom and see what was different with that one.

One additional update as well. I left VVT active (1500 rpm lockout) and unplugged the OCV's. Here is a log of a cold start and rev with them unplugged. No trigger errors and no rpm cutoffs. I ran out of time today, but ill try to unplug one at a time. Log 2021-07-11 OCV unplugged, cold start.llg

Ok got an update. I attached a cable from the battery negative terminal to the engine block. It did not change anything for the trigger voltage to ground. As for resistors, I have attached 4 scopes with different resistors for trigger 2. The original scopes above were a 2200ohm. All of these ran EXCEPT for the internal pull-up. It would crank and start, then immediately die. Let me know what you think! Trigger Scope Log 3200 ohm Trig 2.llg Trigger Scope Log 2700 ohm.llg Trigger Scope Log internal Trig 2.llg Trigger Scope Log 1K Ohm Trig 2.llg

Ok so I have a few thoughts on this. My grounds are as such: I have the engine harness' two main grounds attached to their factory spots on each head. ECU earths are tied to those grounds through ecu plugs. My battery is up front and the negative terminal goes direct to chassis. Engine has 2 1-ga wires going from block to chassis. The only thing that stands out is I have the ecu mounted in the factory ecu case (hacked to fit). The factory case has a plastic barrier inside so the ecu body isn't directly mounted to car body. There is a buffer. I am using the ecu mounting shell and it is bolted to metal. Does the link g4+ series use the ecu case as a ground? Sensor grounds are internal, but where do they ground themselves in relation to engine grounds that an offset could form? I am going to run a jumper cable from my battery negative to the block and see if that direct connection alleviates any offset through the chassis. Also, my resistor was a 2.2K ohm on the LH cam sensor.

since the rpm issue happens with vvt active at anything less than full temp, i wonder if it could be oil pressure/flow related. And is the vvt actuator not homing all the way due to varnish build up from the previous life of this motor.

Sounds good. I have attached 2 logs. One is a cold engine (2-3 minute idle) and the other is a warm engine. The LH cam sensor had a 2.2K ohm. I didnt switch them when i correct the wiring apparently Log 2021-07-6 - LH Cam Test WARM ENGINE.llg Log 2021-07-6 - LH Cam Test.llg

Would it be beneficial to change over to rising edge? It would keep my edges further away from the gaps. Redoing the offsets isn't an issue.

And a quick follow-up. Was this the waveform you were expecting to see from my motor? I have the book for this motor and I am not noticing mine seems to be shifted from this waveform.

I have attached trigger scopes with the following conditions: Cold Start - Idle (1100rpm) 2200 rpm 3500rpm 4000 rpm I also attached a cold(ish) start and did some revving to force cam errors. Again this all goes away when warm. Do you want a trigger scope with the solenoid unplugged? or a data log? Trigger Scope Log 7-5-21 4000 rpm.llg Trigger Scope Log 7-5-21 3500 rpm.llg Trigger Scope Log 7-25-21 2200 rpm.llg Trigger Scope Log 7-5-21 cold start.llg Log 2021-07-5 2;04;53 pm cam errors.llg

I just realized i saved the scopes as JPG. I will redo them shortly with log files.

Attached are a log of the rpm spikes and associated cam errors. Scopes called out too. Log 2021-07-5 2;04;53 pm cam errors.llg

Yes, my problem is that the errors all show up when the engine is cold, but goes away when warm. Those spikes happen constantly until the engine gets to about 180F. Is it common to leave a lockout of 176F for the VVT? It's the only thing that remedies the spikes. Also, you had mentioned that my cam phasing looked odd. Did it still look off in that more recent log (6-28-21)?

I originally had RH intake (looking from flywheel) setup as trigger 2, but I changed it back to LH. It was an error in my wiring. I am pretty sure it should be correct in the Log 2021-06-27. OK. I was not aware the ecu would force a base percentage to hold the vvt in place. Then my next question is why are only 2 being asked to hold at ~33% and not all 4? The documentation I have shows that toyota VVT in this motor has no intake "retard", just home position which is just 0. The factory VVT chart references 0 for most offload driving and only advances above 15% load (based on rpm). So the base 33% the link ecu is giving is just keeping the cams off the lock position? Yes, I only had it active at that point for testing purposes. I wanted to see what was going on with only having 2 cams showing that base 33% percentage. I have attached another log where I was playing with the PID for the VVT. This definitely had the correct cam setup as Trig 2. Does the phasing still look off? There were errors at the start of this log, but as the log goes on, there were no new trigger errors. Log 2021-06-28 6_17_26 pm.llg

Engine - 2GR-FE 3.5L V6 Car - Toyota MR2 Turbo ECU - G4+ Xtreme So I am having this really strange issue. I recently realized my VVT oil valves werent wired correctly and i havent really had any control. So i fixed the wiring and everything is working now. Here is the weird part. When driving with a cold engine (less than 170 ECT), and VVT activated, I am getting weird rpm limits around 3000 rpm. Logs show that I am hitting 10000 rpm for split seconds. This never happened when VVT wasnt working (no power to control valves), and if I force a lockout condition for VVT, it goes away. Once engine coolant reaches 190 degrees, it acts completely normal with VVT activated. I have uploaded a log where I blipped throttle (3000rpm) after letting the car sit for 3-4 minutes after initial start. Environment temp is 90F. I will also upload a log where everything is up to temp and im cruising around (for comparison). To mitigate the problem, I keep VVT locked out until 176F ECT, but id like to know why this is happening. Does anyone have any idea what I'm missing? Ive also attached trigger scope (at idle) for reference. And another issue I am seeing now. At idle, if i force VVT on at 700rpm (still calling for 0 degrees), I have two oil control valves showing the ECU is calling for 30-35% DC at 0 degrees. ANy idea why the ecu would call for that? Thanks in advance for any help. 2gr-fe-mr2-6-28-21 -cold temp ait comp.pclr Trigger scope 7-3-21.llg Log 2021-06-27 8;14;32 pm 2.llg 2021-06-25 Cold Start RPM Limit.llg

I found top dead center for cylinder 1 using a dial indicator (with the intake manifold off). Then i made a new mark on the crank pulley near where the oil level sensor would go. I tapped one of those holes and put a bolt in it and put a notch in the bolt to act as the new "0" location for a new timing mark. I read the the other threads as well and it seems like there is a major difference between where people's trigger offsets end up. A few threads said theirs fired perfectly around 200 offset. That was 360 degrees (exhaust stroke) for me. So my offset ended up being -160. I can post a picture of the setup tomorrow. Hopefully this helps other people who search this info later.

Well, that absolutely did it. It was 360 degrees out. Thank you guys so much. I still have a ton to do, but i can at least move forward!

Vaughan Can you check what offset you are using on your setup? In the meantime I will try 360deg back and try again. Others who have posted on this forum have been in the 200 range. Im going to verify all my grounds are correct and all my coils are firing again. Each time I log, im not getting any trigger errors and everything seems happy. This is a brand new motor so I may have to check compression again to make sure its not something mechanical.

Ok so i had some time to look over the wiring. My sensor ground is connected to the Link sensor ground correctly (shielded gray wire). I also removed the shielding and the resistor is a 1k ohm like it should be. I tried a 2.2k ohm and the voltages went to .35v / 3.85v . I tried cranking, but no start. So i installed a new 1k ohm resistor and got the same voltages. as the picture above. I then tried a 1.5k ohm resistor and got .83v / 4.3v (see new log). Still wont start. At this point, im not sure what to do. Im pretty sure my plugs are destroyed at this point from all the cranking, and im probably going to need to change the oil too :(. If you have any ideas, im open to them. I am using a break-out box to connect the link wiring to the stock harness. I may need to wire direct to the sensors (bypass the box), but im not sure its going to matter. Im measuring .01 ohms to ground at the sensor so i dont think its a ground issue. I'm going to check to make sure I didn't miss a ground on the motor some where. I may swap cam sensors around as well to see if that helps.

Adam, thanks for the response! I will double check i didn't accidently connect the sensor ground to a group chasis ground. I followed the the link manual for pull-up resistors, so it should be correct, but I'll check it as well. Its not in a bad spot.