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Murg_e30

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Posts posted by Murg_e30

  1. On 2/10/2023 at 2:23 AM, koracing said:

    The only reason to run a 4 port or dual 3 ports is if you need a wide range of control values and can't get what you need done with a more simple single spring and single 3 port that will control up to a bit over double that base spring pressure - a 10psi wg spring can typically have good control up to 22-23psi boost and a 1 bar 14.5psi spring can have good control up to 35psi boost.   If you need a 10psi spring to have control up to 50psi of boost, then it makes sense to go to a 4 port or dual 3 port.

    4 ports do have pretty terrible resolution for closed loop control in my experience, but seem ok-ish at open loop.  When doing dual 3 ports, I see a lot of recommendations to wire both 3 port solenoids to the same output which in my experience still ends up with poor resolution.  The way I would do it with dual 3 port solenoids is: 1 output runs your upper solenoid with boost control function as per normal single solenoid tuning.  The second solenoid is wired to a separate output using a 3D pwm table with boost target as the primary axis (versus throttle or rpm or whatever similar to your regular boost target table in the boost control menu) - as you run out of duty cycle to achieve your primary boost targets with the first solenoid, at that boost level you set a fixed duty cycle on the lower solenoid to give a bit of restriction to the opening side as necessary to give the first solenoid the ability to control boost. 

    I appreciate the information and advice you have shared.

  2. 5 hours ago, Adamw said:

    I dont think this would be any different than a single 4 port solenoid.  What are you trying to acheive?

    As i understand 4 port solenoid  the duty cycle is poor resolution 
    when change the duty cycle by as little as one or two percent will change the boost pressure by as mush as three to eight psi 
    so i would like to solve the problem by use dual solenoid 
    Or do you have any other suggestions.

     
  3. 9 hours ago, Vaughan said:

    No you need to have a separate bleed and pressure Aux for Dome Pressure control. For the setup you are suggesting you would just be connecting your high pressure CO2 straight to atmosphere every time the output was turned on.

    thank you

    6 hours ago, Adamw said:

    The only way you can do this is use the launch control function for the latched launch, and use a GP limit table for the 3D launch table.  The Power management function could probably be used to achieve the 3D launch also.  

    thank you

  4. On 10/26/2022 at 2:28 AM, Adamw said:

    You can use a strain gauge to initiate the gear shift control function, but not that specific one.  The FuelTech shift knob doesnot have a strain gauge amp built in - instead they have a dedicated circuit to make it usable inside their ecu.  That knob is also not temperature compensated so not really any good for anything but drag racing.    

    I will use for drag racing 
    Could you please suggest me  which brand of strain gauge is most suitable for FURY X 

  5. 16 hours ago, Adamw said:

    It looks like this engine has a modified cam in it.  The exhaust cam should have 5 teeth per revolution, yours only has a single tooth.  

    The K20/K24 mode needs a matching crank and cam wheel.  

    We dont currently have a trigger mode that would support the 12+1 crank pattern you have with a single tooth cam.

    You will need to fit the original cam trigger wheel or you could modify the crank wheel by grinding off a couple of teeth to make it 12-1.

     

    Thank you ,I changed  to the original cam trigger. it worked

  6. 23 hours ago, Adamw said:

    No, the need a 8A peak 2A hold driver.  There are some 3rd party driver boxes available for these such as this one:  https://www.fueltech.net/collections/injectors-drivers/products/peak-and-hold-8a-2a-driver  I beleive they are designed for 16V drag racing systems also and dont perform reliably on 12V systems so you may need to upgrade to a 16V alternator and battery also.  

     

     

     

     

    Can i use peak and hold another brand

  7. 20 hours ago, Adamw said:

    No, the need a 8A peak 2A hold driver.  There are some 3rd party driver boxes available for these such as this one:  https://www.fueltech.net/collections/injectors-drivers/products/peak-and-hold-8a-2a-driver  I beleive they are designed for 16V drag racing systems also and dont perform reliably on 12V systems so you may need to upgrade to a 16V alternator and battery also.  

     

    Thank you 

    This car already use 16v system 

  8. On 5/15/2021 at 4:07 AM, Adamw said:

    Yeah as far as I know they all share the same pinout.  Some basic throttle and idle settings from our LS race car below that will probably be a decent starting point.  This one needed a lot of dashpot offset to stop it stalling, I assume due to the big plenum.  

    Xkh6wvW.png

    Thank you, I will try  and report back

    1 hour ago, Stevieturbo said:

    LS2 is a silver blade, and on the OEM can be problematic over time, and are pretty much unavailable. They were only used for a short run

     

    LS3 used the gold blade, which is readily available.

    Thank you for the information

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