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About HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep

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  • Location
    Massachusetts, USA
  • Interests
    skating and rotaries

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  1. Update: The car is running very well and idles perfectly, I never wired up my BAC (Idle Air Control Valve) on the car, and I remember when creating the base-map I set it up to run with ISC control not sure if that was from the FD base-map but my intention from the beginning was to utilize the BAC anyways. The car starts with ease, better than ever (even better than the stock ECU lol). I thought I'd share this for people intending to run a Link on their FC RX-7, I'm no expert tuner but this could help anybody in my situation. Details on my setup: - Stock Port S4 NA Engine (9:4:
  2. Been having issues with my T1 igniter I’ll replace that probably causing that to to happen. Going to lock base timing again, the lambda reading matches the actual gauge too, could be potential that there is noise I’ll have to look. Engine stays running when I hold it at about 20-30% throttle the moment I let off it dies, base timing sounds like it’s off again had to pull my CAS again. Will fix that and see what happens.
  3. Fixed my MAP source still can't get the car to idle at all for some reason, could base timing still be an issues? here are my logs. PC Datalog - 2020-09-28 8;21;53 pm.llgx FC3S S4 6Port Turbo.pclx
  4. Ahh, I see so technically speaking the way it’s calculated is based on the “total cc” per rotor?
  5. Hey, wrapping up my FC RX-7 build, got it running on old crusty Turbo II injectors I had sitting around. I used the S6 Base Map to get it running with little altercations. To my knowledge the S6 uses 550cc Injectors for the primaries and 850cc for the secondaries. I’m familiar with usually calculating my master fuel value with some basic algebra using: Old Master Fuel Value / (New Injector Size / Old Injector Size) = New Master Fuel Value I have now obtained Injector Dynamics ID1050X (1050cc Injectors @ ~40psi) for both the primaries and secondaries, I’m quite clu
  6. Base timing has been handled, ignore the value set in that file. I actually realized myself the internal MAP wasn’t really reading any values. Might be my manifold source, I’ll switch it around and see.
  7. I was able to get my car to idle fine a few days ago, without a CLT/IAT sensor, after finishing up my harness and adding such sensors I couldn’t even get it to idle or run, I’m using the S6 basemap and just mainly playing around with the master fuel value, these are stock 460cc Injectors at the moment, have ID1050X’s on the way. I can blip the throttle and get it to run for a few seconds but afterwards it dies out even while having my foot on the pedal. I tried to get a log but can’t see much from this log. Maybe I need a second set of eyes, somewhat at a dead end. FC3S S4 6Port Turbo.pclx
  8. Awesome! Very insightful, thanks again Adam you’ve been a huge contribution to helping out. Hopefully these forum post stay up for other FC owners to see planning on going with the Link, lots of useful things I’ve learned from you!
  9. What Wideband sensor are you using? AEM, Innovate, Link Lambda? If you’re using something like an AEM which has a 5V signal wire supplied you can use one of the analog inputs on the Fury I/O.
  10. On my RX-7 there are two timing marks: Leading: 5 degrees ATDC Trailing: 20 degrees ATDC When calibrating base timing / offset, I had a few questions as I’ve heard a few things that seem quite contradicting. 1. Do I have to alter my rotary split table before entering the calibration table? 2. When setting base timing do I just enter in a value “-20.0”, attach my timing light to the L1 (Leading 1) spark plug wire, and then adjust the offset until the light illuminates when the -20 degree mark on the pulley hits the timing mark on the front co
  11. I swapped out the CAS, and changed the threshold table to this! It works!
  12. Update: swapped the batteries, grounded my battery to the engine and the chassis, even swapped the trigger grounds, and swapped the trigger input wires. Running out of ideas at this point, not sure what else it could be. The photo is the result of me swapping around the trigger wiring.
  13. Wiring is correct, even went as crazy to re-pin and re-wire the CAS. CAS is fine as it has always been working on the previous setup anyways. Never touched or altered it. Could it be that my battery is grounded to the chassis and not directly to the engine block?
  14. Updated my firmware and fetched a trigger scope for you! Hopefully this helps 13B RX-7 Trigger Scope.llgx
  15. Interesting, will do and see if it resolves the issue. Thanks!
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