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HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep

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Posts posted by HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep

  1. Hey, I have a Link Monsoon G4X configured to run on an S14 Silvia (SR20DE w/ Distributor) with the basics (S13 Turbo, Internal MAP Sensor, GM IAT Sensor, SR20DET 370cc Injectors)

     

    I have verified that the injectors, ignition, IAC, TPS, and all important things are in working order through the Link testing features. The starter is a little stubborn as it seems to have been locking up the engine. Trigger scope checks out fine, and engine is reading engine speed while cranking. I had made small modifications to the engine harness, putting the Injectors, IAC, Trigger Sensor power on a Switched 12V+ source via a relay as they receive constant 12V+ from the factory. Aside from that the engine harness is OEM.

     

    I took an SR20DET Basemap and changed around the Ignition and Trigger Settings to what I believe is needed to get it started on a Distributor. Any advise or help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

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    Basemap.pclx

  2. 6 hours ago, Adamw said:

    No that is wrong.  

    You have 2 x 1065cc primary = 2130cc total primary flow.  You have 2 x 2200cc secondary = 4400cc total secondary flow.

    Sec/Pri flow ratio is 4400/2130 = 2.065

    And that wont make a difference for start up anyhow - it will only make a difference once the secondaries start to come in at higher load.  

     

    Sorry for comment above, may be wrong if you are now saying you have 4 primaries and 2 secondary injectors.  I was assuming 2 of each.  FC's only have 2 of each from what I remember.

     

    You also should do the practical test below to confirm the sec/pri flow ratio once running ok since it is unlikely the quoted generic flow numbers are accurate.  

    1. Set the Sec PW lockout much lower - say 0.5ms.
    2. Set the whole staging table to 0% - so all fuel is injected by the primary injectors.
    3. Hold the engine steady at medium load/medium speed - say 3000RPM, half throttle for example.  Easier on the dyno but you can also do it on a hill or whatever if you have a driver.  Note what lambda is reading (or log and look later), while still holding at same speed/load, select the whole staging table and change it all to 100%.  It is now running only on secondary injectors.  If sec/pri flow ratio is correct, then lambda wont change when you swap between pri to sec injectors.
    4. If lambda goes richer when you change to 100% secondary then your sec/pri flow ratio is too small.  Make it larger and do the test again.  

     

     

    That’s interesting as when I was cranking under the runtime menu it said that Injectors 3 and 4 were active while cranking even with the staged table zero’d out that’s why I was concerned. And yes it’s a stock configuration so instead of a multiple of 4 it should be 2, so I’ll have to change that value later.

  3. Update: Ended up getting the car running with some minor changes in the tune. As Adam had mentioned I had the internal BAP disabled (that was intentional), we swapped in new BUR9EQs all around, and most importantly I changed the Staged Injection "Sec/Pri Ratio" which was important as I misunderstood the way that value was calculated. The Link docs do a great job at explaining how to properly use this with the Modeled fuel equation. Another thing to note is that we swapped the primaries from 550cc Injectors to ID1050X Injectors just for the sake of having consistent lag/pw data to reference for peace of mind.

     

    As you can see I defined the primary injector size under the "Injector Setup" Page then afterwards I calculated the Secondary Flow Ratio as so:

     

    A.) Primary Injector Size: 1065cc

    B.) Secondary Injector Size: 2200cc

    Ratio = (B * 2) / (A * 4) = 1.032

     

    As you can see I made the mistake of making this calculation based off of a multiple value in relation to the primary size (i-e: 1065x = 2200, value of x)

     

    Anyways I hope this helps anybody experiencing similar issues.

     

     

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    Running.pclx

  4. Been trying to scratch my head around this one...before I go into details on the issue I'll give some context to this specific car:

     

    Series 4 Turbo II

    Link Monsoon G4X

    Street Port

    GM Temp Sensors

    LS Ignition Coils

    FD TPS and UIM

    Turbonetics T60 .96 AR (8psi Waste-gate spring)

    44mm External Wastegate

    No IAC

    AEM Wideband

    Electronic Boost Controlle

    Ford Taurus Electric Fans (2 speed)

    550cc Primaries (Bosch #0280158117)

    2200cc Secondaries (Bosch #0280158821)

     

    Note the Injector sizes and part numbers as that is quite relevant, this car was running on an old Microtech ECU prior we decided to throw it in the trash as it was problematic and was locked in that hands of a questionable tuner. Typically I use the Modeled Fuel Equation on rotary cars as it seems to be usually on point, giving me little to no issues at all. This specific car was timed correctly, wired properly, etc. For some odd reason, when trying to time the engine with the spark plug wire attached to the spark plug the light was inoperable giving zero feedback but when removing the plug wire from the spark plug the light worked just fine. I tried to source dead-time/lag data through various sources, set the arming threshold to 0.2 (lowest value, I find I have the best luck with that value @ 500rpm range), define the fuel pressure and primary injector size (550cc/min @ 300kPA) alongside with the staged injection ratio value (x4.0). I seem to have zero luck getting this engine to turn over and fire at all. I'm leaning towards the thought of it being an injector issue and can't seem to wrap my head around this issue, numerous de-flooding's were done, but zero luck. The trigger scope checks out just fine too. I've even tried to disabled accel enrichment to avoid any weird fluctuations with injector PW. I have provided some files pertaining to the issues including a cranking log and the tune file. Thank you.

     

    Basemap.pclx fcb_cranking_log.llgx

  5. I've been battling with this specific car which has been having a hard time starting. It see's roughly 250 RPM while cranking alongside with 100 KPA. For background here is the current setup of the car:

     

    Monsoon G4X (Rev 3.2, MainCode Firmware: 6.19.60)

    Internal MAP Sensor with the BAP Disabled

    Stock Series 5 13B Engine

    Injector Dynamics 1050X Injectors

    Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator w/ Stack Fuel Pressure @ 43psi

    Series 5 Full Range Throttle Position Sensor

    Series 5 idle Air Control Valve

    Series 6 / FD Ignition Coils and Igniter (Setup on Wasted Spark for the Leading Plugs w/ Ignition Offset at 180)

     

    Injectors and Ignition Coils have been verified in the right location and working accordingly using the Test functions in the G4X software. I'm a little bit at a loss as this car was running perfectly fine the day prior and started to develop these issues leading to an intermittent no-start issue. The engine has good compression and there are no vacuum leaks present. On occasion the car kicks back and wants to fire but ends up not firing up. The last time the car was able to idle and run, it took nearly 25 seconds to start the car with my foot fully depressed on the throttle pedal. Trigger data as been set properly per data provided in the Link manuals, only changes that were made was setting the arming voltage to 0.2V @ 500RPM for Trig 1 and 2.

     

    Below I have provided 3 different files, one containing the trigger scope log, log containing all the information of the car while cranking, and lastly the tune file.

    TriggerScopeLog.llgx Series 5 RX7 6PT.pclx No Start Log.llgx

  6. 59 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    We used to support them years ago but it was removed due to the risk of using them with user configurable limiters.  I dont know all of the technical detail, but I believe the reason was that under a specific set of conditions (maybe dwell extension or attrition coupled with an ignition cut limiter), there was a potential risk that the ignitor could initiate spark on the wrong rotor.  Mazda got around this by always cutting fuel a few cycles prior to cutting ignition, then only adding fuel back a few cycles after spark was reintroduced.

     

    Ahh interesting, the likelihood of it being added back is slim to none I assume?

  7. Hey, I was just wondering if it were possible in the future for the G4X firmware to support toggle style Ignition Coils, I've wired up a few RX7s, G4Xs in the past (direct fire), and have past experience working with the MegaSquirt Platform which supported Toggle Style Ignition Coils alongside with Direct Fire (w/ Wasted Spark Leading Coils). I'm not sure if this is hardware related, but is there a possibility that this can be supported in the future via a firmware update? The only way I've been able to get around this is by adding a second igniter to trailing coil.

  8. Update: The car is running very well and idles perfectly, I never wired up my BAC (Idle Air Control Valve) on the car, and I remember when creating the base-map I set it up to run with ISC control not sure if that was from the FD base-map but my intention from the beginning was to utilize the BAC anyways. The car starts with ease, better than ever (even better than the stock ECU lol). I thought I'd share this for people intending to run a Link on their FC RX-7, I'm no expert tuner but this could help anybody in my situation.

     

    Details on my setup:

    - Stock Port S4 NA Engine (9:4:1)
    - Racing Beat Downpipe
    - AEM Wideband
    - Injector Dynamics ID1050X
    - GM IAT
    - GM CLT
    - CX Racing Front Mount Intercooler
    - CX Racing Blow Off Valve
    - S4 Tii Turbo
    - S4 Tii LIM & UIM
    - Stock CAS
    - Stock FPR

     

    FC3S S4 6Port Turbo.pclx

  9. 3 hours ago, Adamw said:

    On top of Vaughan's suggestion, I would also make sure you put a timing light on both trailing plugs to confirm they are the right way around, and not 180 out.

    The lambda is also very noisy like it is maybe only running on one rotor?

    And have you confirmed base timing?  With the set base timing screen open (timing locked) does it hold steady when you rev it? 

     

    Been having issues with my T1 igniter I’ll replace that probably causing that to to happen. Going to lock base timing again, the lambda reading matches the actual gauge too, could be potential that there is noise I’ll have to look. Engine stays running when I hold it at about 20-30% throttle the moment I let off it dies, base timing sounds like it’s off again had to pull my CAS again. Will fix that and see what happens.

     

    On 8/30/2020 at 5:14 PM, Adamw said:

    I suspect your CAS voltage may not be quite reaching your arming thresholds.

    Can you change both trig 1 & 2 arming thresholds to match below and try again:

     

  10. Hey, wrapping up my FC RX-7 build, got it running on old crusty Turbo II injectors I had sitting around. I used the S6 Base Map to get it running with little altercations.

     

    To my knowledge the S6 uses 550cc Injectors for the primaries and 850cc for the secondaries. I’m familiar with usually calculating my master fuel value with some basic algebra using:


    Old Master Fuel Value / (New Injector Size / Old Injector Size) = New Master Fuel Value

     

    I have now obtained Injector Dynamics ID1050X (1050cc Injectors @ ~40psi) for both the primaries and secondaries, I’m quite clueless as to how I’m going to calculate the new master fuel value based on my new injector size.

     

    Any help and knowledge would be gladly appreciated, still learning. Thanks.

     

     

  11. 6 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Is the MAP sensor hose connected?  It is showing 102kpa all the time - it doesnt even flinch with the engine running so it appears not?

    Have you checked base timing?

    Base timing has been handled, ignore the value set in that file. I actually realized myself the internal MAP wasn’t really reading any values. Might be my manifold source, I’ll switch it around and see.

  12. I was able to get my car to idle fine a few days ago, without a CLT/IAT sensor, after finishing up my harness and adding such sensors I couldn’t even get it to idle or run, I’m using the S6 basemap and just mainly playing around with the master fuel value, these are stock 460cc Injectors at the moment, have ID1050X’s on the way. I can blip the throttle and get it to run for a few seconds but afterwards it dies out even while having my foot on the pedal. I tried to get a log but can’t see much from this log. Maybe I need a second set of eyes, somewhat at a dead end.

    790D2E90-313A-44CC-A63D-EFA12EC2249E.png

    FC3S S4 6Port Turbo.pclx PC Datalog - 2020-09-20 10;15;27 am.llgx

  13. 25 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    On the rotaries using the leading wasted ignition mode it is important to verify the timing of L1 and both trailing plugs as the engine as it is possible to end up with the trailing 180deg out which can cause detonation.

    Since you have two marks this makes it fairly easy.  Adjust your whole timing split table to -15.  To do this, click at the grey square at the top left corner to select the whole table, then type "=-15" and hit enter.   With the engine running, open the set base timing screen and lock the timing to -5.  Clip the timing light on L1, and check thast the front cover pointer lines up with the yellow mark - if not then adjust your offset up or down until it does.

    Next with the set base screen still open, and timing still locked at -5, move your timing light to T1, the red mark should line up.  Then move timing light to T2, the red mark should still line up.  If the red marks cant be seen when you are checking the trailing plugs then it means you are 180 out so just subtract 180 from your offset and check again.

    0IGowZu.png

    Awesome! Very insightful, thanks again Adam you’ve been a huge contribution to helping out. Hopefully these forum post stay up for other FC owners to see planning on going with the Link, lots of useful things I’ve learned from you!

  14. On my RX-7 there are two timing marks:

     

    Leading: 5 degrees ATDC

    Trailing: 20 degrees ATDC

     

    When calibrating base timing / offset, I had a few questions as I’ve heard a few things that seem quite contradicting.

     

    1. Do I have to alter my rotary split table before entering the calibration table?

     

    2. When setting base timing do I just enter in a value “-20.0”, attach my timing light to the L1 (Leading 1) spark plug wire, and then adjust the offset until the light illuminates when the -20 degree mark on the pulley hits the timing mark on the front cover.

     

    I’m fairly new to all of this, so still trying to get a solid understanding of all of this. Just got my engine started by locking my my timing to -20 BTDC and setting my offset to 180 degrees which was a rough guess but still gave the engine the ability to run regardless.

    368F0D2B-B047-48ED-A2A0-2DC8F304A0F2.jpeg

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