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About Brendanr33

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  1. So after much frustration I couldn’t get it to work as it should everything seemed ok with the way you suggested adam however I lost all power hold function after this the ecu would just shut down instantly with the key off and would keep all random aux’s, ecu hold power, fuel pump aux, and DI inputs active in pc link when they were all powered off witch is a pain as would cause extended cranking and iacv to not work as I want it to with resetting on key off. so with the frustration along come the cutting the haltech fusebox from the circuitry temporarily whilst I looked at the way
  2. I have connected up how you said to Adam, so what I got from that is there is no back feeding or relays/vvt clicking now. on pc link however once it shuts down the ecu disconnects from pc link but after it does so the aux 2 for hold power, aux 4 fuel pumps and the injector power trigger on injection channel on a gp output thats on with aux 4 are all staying on? any suggestions here mate cheers
  3. No worries adam will give it a red hot crack again tomorrow, would having this setup as haltech do also cause the hold power wire being the black/red wire from all negative side of relays showing a voltage of around 6v after everything is switched off? And would this voltage cause the ecu to stay alive even though all I/O are saying off in pc link? after correcting old mates wiring and putting it back to how it’s sapposed to be as per links wiring diagrams I found that once everything was switched off on the key side of things that the injection relay in the haltech fusebox started cl
  4. So thought I sorted it but turns out I didn’t well not fully but good news is everything is shutting down as it should be but I’m now getting a clicking noise from the injector relay once it’s all shut down? checked wiring again, 12v ignition wire fused 10amp to di#6 B connector diode inbetween DI#6 and 14v in on A plug. aux 4 ( hold power wire ) to all neg side on switches in relay circuitry. ( haltech fuse box ) 14v aux 9/10 to all pos side switches in the relays circuitry. ( haltech fuse box ) battery positives in through fuses and to pin 30 on r
  5. Hey Adam, so I’ve done some more testing and some wiring changes to ignition circuit and have found the following, no matter what way I connect the 12v switch wire tried multiple different wires the di input still stays active once key is turned to off, it will only turn off once I turn the key to on again and flick back to off straight away once the car is shut down, any other suggestions that you would recommend looking at? I do also believe old mate who wired this all up has installed a relay into the wiring near the ecu unsure of what it’s actually there for but I
  6. Thanks Adam I will look into this first as will be the most simple rather then pulling out all the ecu and loom to track things down, I’m sort of figuring it will be in the turbo timer side as all turns off as it should just doesn’t kill the power until it’s switched back on again cheers mate will check in once I get the chance to look into it a bit more this afternoon
  7. Will have a look at this in the morning Adam but from testing today when key off the ecu hold power aux and di6 input are staying active and not switching off at all, those 2 will only turn off once key is turned back to the on position and off again, I’m guessing it has something to do with the turbo timer now also as after switching everything off is still staying active until key is reset, I’ll check back in the morning when I check into things further and let you know, is there any reason as to why the power would be staying active on ecu hold and di because of the turbo timer
  8. Hey guys, still ironing out these issues I’ve been left with from the guy who wired this up for me and what a nightmare!! so I’ve managed to get all other things ruled out and fixed so far with all of your help, Thank use. so with everything else now fixed I decided to leave the battery in and connected for a couple of days to see if anything would drain power when it shouldn’t be and what do you know something is going on come back and went to turn car over and battery voltage is below 9v not enough to kick the car over. Bummer for me as I am now stuck with an
  9. Cheers adam, ive gone through and had a look both are negative switched thermo setups both fans are grounded out via aux 3 but they are only just spinning for this setup, I have wired straight to thermos and they turn very fast on straight power but not through the relay setup? do the fans both need a seperate aux out to ground each relay or can it be jumped off one aux out? just trying to figure out why they turn on but not crank to full speed as they do when the power is connected straight to the fans themselves.. cheers guys hope use all had a g
  10. Hey fellas, one last question for use regarding engine fan switches from ecu, witch is best to use ect? the engine fans are currently controlled by a negative switched relay via aux output, however when I ran the car yesterday and got it up to temp the thermos switched on as they should by the ecu but don’t seem like they are really spinning as fast as they should and the relays controlling them are making the ol buzzing/squealy noise like they are low on juice.. so did a bit of reading and getting mixed ways at doing it aswell as reasons some say run off aux channels and o
  11. You guys adam/koracing are absolute legends!!! swapped the trigger from 8v to sensor ground where it’s sapposed to be and loaded in adams original map he sent first kick and signs of life adjusted the master fuel a little bit and finally came to life after a year of being built!! cheers legends wouldn’t of been able to do it without use... appreciate the help and thanks for putting up with the million questions/thoughts
  12. Thanks for rectifying that koracing, I will go through and change it all to how it’s sapposed to be today and load up adams map he originally sent me and see what happens hopefully can get it to fire and this is the only issue otherwise I’ll rip it all out buy a new set of looms and re-wire myself.. and yeah will not be returning to him as have been fixing problems since.. deffinately a bit frustrating after paying for it all to be done.. and no worries mate will keep that in mind cheers mate, will touch back to base when wiring is sorted and let use know if it
  13. So adam have finally heard back from the guy who wired it up for me to confirm wiring, now it’s completely wrong I believe, They are both wired up as 8v from ecu to sensors +ve and sheilded ground from -ve back to ecu trigger 1/2, reason I havnt picked up on it as wires were spliced near firewall connector so looking at ecu connectors all looks legit but is far from it so if I’m thinking straight correct me if Im wrong but this should be a easy fix as the only thing wired into the 8v port on ecu plug are the cam and crank sensors old mate reckons so should be ab
  14. Ok mate to easy ill check ohms on the those 2 first up and let you know what it’s reading before pulling anything apart. I’ll leave the ecu out for now and if resistance check comes back crappy I’ll go through and correct all of this and get it so it’s as above where trigger grounds and shields are all on a7 and then signal from sensors to trigger 1/2 cheers adam will check in soon
  15. I can do this mate pin A7 and A8 are the trigger 1/2 connections on fury wire in ecu’s or sensor grounds? Is currently wired as followed.. 1. sensor ground to -ve sensor 2. sheilded cable from cam and crank sensors +ve ( signal ) to trigger 1/2 on ecu 3. the shield of the shielded cable looks to be grounded straight to chassis or back into the sensor grounds on the ecu Inside the car on the footwell not sure if this is correct but that’s what it looks like he has done when he wired it.. or would it be better for me to wire again as followed..
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