jrdnclrk
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Posts posted by jrdnclrk
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updated with no changes. I've also tried setting all vvti targets to 0* and the problem stays.
Also thank you for the correction on cam teeth.
2jz itb updated vvti to custom.pclx bucking with updated vvti settings.llgx
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i logged this tonight. you can see the bucking in the rpm and tps signals as acceleration goes up.
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Hello again guys.
I'm having some issues with my vvti settings on my is300 itb 2jzge.
The issue appears to be with the settings from what i can tell. With the vvti turned off the car performs fine under all throttle conditions except the intake cam isn't varying and stays at 0*.
Now when i have the 2jz vvti setting turned on using my tps as a load axis. with mildly aggressive settings in the mid range the car bucks like a timing error under transient throttle conditions. Now if i set all the vvti targets to 0* this issue still happens. which has led me to believe the settings for 2jzgte vvti (3 cam teeth) and 1jzgte vvti (2 cam teeth) are somehow not applicable to 2jzge vvti. i have tried the calibration setting in the vvti set up cam angle test selection as well. no effect. I've also tried datalogging this issue but nothing shows up on my logs as far as trigger errors or anything obvious.
I'm currently driving with the vvti setting off till i can get this issue sorted.
If i have any incorrect info here please let me know.
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Hello again guys. I've been daily driving on this set up for about a year now and finally went to different injectors due to a injector failure. ive updated the fuel map for vq35hr injectors. Does anyone happen to know the dead times for these? Also on a side note I got the vvti working correctly. i had previously had the load axis for the vvti set on MAP signal. switched to TPS and works amazing.
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small update for those wanting a decent tune using stock injectors and itb's on a vvti 2jzge car seems to start and run decent with these settings. I've only done street tuning on this so no power figures.
thank you for all the help. i couldnt have done any of this without this forum!
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ok so i ditched the IAC solenoid. it was causing a bit of too much air to get in at all times. adjusted my ignition idle control to get a smoother idle. im still sitting at about 1000rpm and it seems to be pretty happy there. i do have an occasional pop and backfire causing the rpms to go up and stay. asside from that i think its ready to street tune for the fuel map. swapping out media up top for new map and log
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On 9/12/2022 at 4:34 PM, JcL said:
Well, every time I put the ignition switch on, the 4 coils discharge a spark...
removing fuel from the fuel map 1, there is no longer an explosion when I put the ignition switch on again.
I've recently run into this issue when building the basemap for my 1.5jz i would have a single very loud backfire through the exhaust on key on. the solution to this problem was to have a ignition switch input to a Digital Input so the ecu knows when the key is on. and not having the ignition switch set to always on. it will also help with starting as the precrank prime feature can be set to while ignition switch is on. Just adding this input 100% solved this issue for me. i recommend using your DI3 input for this cause you dont have anything allocated to that yet.
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6 hours ago, Adamw said:
Go to >analog inputs>MAP and increase to filter to medium. Go to >Idle speed control>idle speed control setup and change the MAP lockout to 100Kpa.
The main problem is the idle speed is too high so the RPM is about the overrun fuel cut deactivation, so overrun fuel cut is bouncing on and off. The idle valve is only at 34% and the idle RPM is at least 2300 so im not sure if you will get the idle speed down to target just by adjusting the idle base position. I suspect you are going to have to adjust the throttle stop a little more closed assuming it still has some adjustment.
I’ll adjust when I get back to the car. My throttle stops are pretty well closed but I’ll have to double check I haven’t rattled some linkages loose. I may also perform a smoke test to see if I have any excessive vacuum leaks. Between the map and throttles.
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12 minutes ago, essb00 said:
Idle oscillates as it touches above & below the MAP lockout value. It does not seem right that the MAP value is that high and having too much fluctuations. Where is the MAP sensor plumbed to?
I have all the runners tapped and hoses ran to a vacuum block. The map signal is also ran to the block. The iac and brake booster is also ran there.
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On 9/12/2022 at 11:12 PM, Adamw said:
I dont believe your wideband, that shows it is running with a lambda of 0.55, I doubt an engine would even run at that. Have the ITB's been synced?
BTW, your map is not attached, that is a short cut or something else.
ok map is plumbed in and calibrated. ive got the car starting and running but the idle is all over the place.
i was previously having fuel pump issues. This is300 has a few gremlins that needed to be addressed. so the open circuit relay and the fuel pump relay are doing their job now.. that may have been the source of the wideband issue but im not going to say its not possibly faulty.
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ok so i think I'm having an issue with my fuel pump. It seems to be losing voltage. shortly after the start
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hello guys. I've gotten myself into a point where i think I'm chasing my own tail and i need some one with a bit more experience on building base maps.
current set up is a 2jzge vvti, has itb's, stock non vvti injectors, stock ignition coils, monsoon running batch fire, wideband is an innovate lc1, ford two wire iac. stock cams. fuel and ignition maps are set to alpha N loads
the car seems to start under extended cranking and no throttle inputs. again im unsure of appropriate trigger offset and this could be my whole problem. unfortunately i have no assistance so cranking while using the timing light is not possible.
if I could get someone to just double check my map and log to see what issues I may have that I'm unaware of I'd greatly appreciate it.
EDIT: uploaded new map and log
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On 1/11/2022 at 1:25 PM, essb00 said:
You're still getting trigger errors there.
Do a trigger scope log then post it.
Hello thanks again for the help! I was able to resolve the issue by changing the way my pre crank prime works. I had previously had it set up to precrank prime as soon as the ecu is keyed on. i changed it to as soon as the ecu see start signal. i also added an input for the start signal to digital input 2. all is well car now fires up easily and the main problem is resolved!
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On 1/10/2022 at 5:17 PM, essb00 said:
Just a quick look at your map...
1. Your pre-crank prime dumps too much fuel at key on - probably why you're getting back fire.
2. You are having trigger errors. Try to lower your trigger arming threshold to values as per below. Maybe a good idea to post a trigger scope log so we can try to see what's going on. Most probably because of the trigger error why you're also not getting any coil dwell in the logs (not firing the coils at all).
On 1/10/2022 at 11:11 PM, Adamw said:Yeah I have similar thoughts. Mostly looks like a trigger issue. Do a cold trigger scope when you can and that should give us some clues where the problem is. The battery voltage is very low so it will help if you fix that.
Your trigger setup is odd - does it have a VVT crank wheel and a non VVT cam trigger?
i adjusted tigger threshold to the above setting and finally got some fire out while cranking. its still cranking over slow and not wanting to fire. ive got a trickle charger setup on the battery to ensure its fully charged all the time but it doesnt seem to care. i'm also suspecting my battery to starter cable may have higher than normal resistance.
and yes im running a non vvti head and vvti crank trigger wheel because its what i was able to source more easily than a non vvti trigger wheel.
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Hello all I've been trying with no luck in any direction to get my car to cold start. The car already has the base map tuned. it's running 1000cc injectors, 1zz coils, stock iac, stock map sensor, stock tps, stock IAT, wideband is plx has a start point ground to the cylinder head, battery is relocated to rear. fuel pump is ran off the key, battery is a brand new optima red top.
UPDATE!!! problem solved below
Here are the issues laid out:
1. will NOT start at all when cold soaked and cranked with the starter at anything below *60 ambient
2. after cranking for a brief period trying to cold start. keying off and keying back on will cause a tremendous exhaust back fire.
things I've noticed are the car will start pretty easily if push started using a hill, in gear and popping the clutch.
I've tried a variety of settings in the cold start side of fuel from very little crank enrichment to a whole lot. with no changes. I've changed dwell settings on coils with no luck. this is going on 3 months of little changes with no luck.
I'm certain it's most likely and issue with voltage getting too low for something while cranking due to the starter pulling so much power but I've too little experience in trouble shooting aftermarket cold start issues.
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On 4/12/2021 at 8:37 PM, jrdnclrk said:
Master fuel was set too high for the injectors. Car starts and runs now.
changes from 8ms to 4ms and it fired right up.Update!
I also had my fuel pressure set too high. My first regulator would do a minimum 58psi. Which I initially thought was a little too high. I swapped to a regulator that would do a Minimum of 30 psi and bumped pressure to 45psi. Fires up very easily now. I’m assuming I was either flooding the engine. Or the injectors had too much fuel pressure behind them to open. Turns out fueling was an issue just not lack of fuel but just too much.
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23 hours ago, Adamw said:
Do you know how often I've heard that only to be later proven right becuse the fuel is stale or 5 injectors are stuck closed or something... It is a simple test to tick a whole list of possibilities off the list so it is always worth doing no matter if you believe everything is ok.
Another map isnt going to help you. Our supra map that yours is based on is from a running engine, the only real significant difference I can think of that would prevent it from running a similar engine from the same family is the choice of the two cam sensors being 360 different as I mentioned earlier. You previously said there is no spark or the spark is very weak, the ecu cant cause a weak spark, so if you do have a weak spark when cranking then you need to look at the coil wiring.
Master fuel was set too high for the injectors. Car starts and runs now.
changes from 8ms to 4ms and it fired right up. -
I think I’ve figured out the issue. I got to doing more research on the 1zz coils and the pin outs of the connectors. I believe my issue is that I have the power and ground backwards on the coils connectors. I will swap them tomorrow and see what results I have.
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Yeah we have spark while doing an ignition coil test on each ignition coil. This will also fire the test light. Fuel doesn’t seem to be an issue here. Because while cranking the smell of Unburnt fuel gets stronger as we crank. All the injectors are passing their respective test as well. I’m hoping some with a similar set up and base map would be able to help out by sending it over for me to try.
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3 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Everything looks ok in the log. Did you try shifting the trigger offset as I suggested earlier?
Yeah we’ve tried various spots within the -360 to 360 degree range. Can’t even get a back fire out of it.
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tried adjusting the arming threshold of both trigger 1 and 2 with no change. used a spark testing tool on cylinder one and can confirm spark is happening just has a very weak spark
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so after some testing and lots of cranking the engine over while trying to set base timing. The timing light wont light up while cranking. i tried doing and ignition coil test and that lights the timing light. i performed trigger scopes to confirm that i was getting 24:1 on trigger 1 to trigger 2 so its seems something isnt allowing the ecu to fire the coil based off the triggers.
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3 minutes ago, Adamw said:
It looks like all the basics are present and working in your log. Have you confirmed base timing looks ok with a timing light? If not then that would be the first thing to confirm.
If you have already confirmed base timing and it looks close enough then the next thing I would try is add 360 to your trigger offset (so for example if it is -6 now then try 354). The offset is 360 different depending on if you are using the front or back cam sensor.
I'll have to give it a try in the morning and see what happens on 360*.
also I'm using the rear cam sensor for trigger 2
2JZGE VVTI issues with vvti settings
in G4x
Posted
Noted. I also would like to reiterate that the bucking problem still happens when the targets are set to 0 degrees