[WASTEGATE DUTY CYCLE HELP]

Hey,

I know this is a little difficult to do over the computer, but wondering if anyone can have a look at my WG Duty Cycle table and suggest any tweaking of some sort.

Aiming for about 245/250kpa

At the moment it spikes to 250ish, drops down to approx 215kpa and sometimes climbs again to about 230kpa.

 

 

I've attached a few logs with a few pulls also the map (23/02/22, but have been trying to tweak the table as I've been driving so they might be a little different to what they show in the log.

LOG 1 is the latest, LOG 2 is when DC values where too high under load, LOG 3 has a good 2nd and 3rd gear run in the middle, LOG 4 is when the table was pretty far off, have tweaked since then, I included it as a reference to what the numbers probably shouldn't be.

 

Have logged:
Engine Speed
MAP
MGP
WGate DC %
MAP Limit Status

This link contains all the logs:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lic2ne8pupjqnd7/AACWhf51WQ5_PaMDIJMRnv3ia?dl=0

 

230222 LATEST FILE.pclx

[Driven Up Shift Fuel Trim]

Hi everyone,

Quick question, when using "Gear Shift Control" for flat shifting, I'd like to confirm the meaning behind "Driven Up Shift Fuel Trim"

The way I understand it by the word "Trim" is that this table will introduce a fuel cut?

If I'm correct in that it is cutting fuel on the up shift, is there any way to add fuel during up shift?? 

Thanks

[SOLVED Strange Idle RB25]

Ok well I've sourced the problem, I need to clean my stupid rats nest wiring up, I separated all the wires in the loom close to the ecu and the problem went away.

If you're having issues similar I highly recommend checking your loom out.

Thanks everyone for your help!

[SOLVED Strange Idle RB25]

3 hours ago, Vaughan said:

one note on this, from memory my RB25 manifold had 3 different idle solenoids with only one being ecu controlled, I know another was on with ac and I cannot remember what the 3rd did. Purple and Brown? solenoids at the back of the manifold and the straight through one with the black plug underneath the manifold

Hmm yeh I've only got the purple and black plug solenoid attached to the manifold, I've deleted that straight through one which I believe was for the cold start.
The thing I don't understand is it idled perfect before I advanced my intake cam slightly.

Tempted to just use no idle solenoid and just use the throttle stop screw to control idle to see if that solves the issue as it seems like its opening and closing when it just needs to stay steady.
It's not like your typical misfire, it drops down to about 700rpm and then up to 950/1000. I've adjusted so many settings, the idle is sort of steadier now but still goes lean and rich and you can hear a difference.

Regarding using no idle solenoid and just a throttle stop, would I zero out all values in the software and adjust the screw manually, recalibrate the TPS and thats all?

[SOLVED Strange Idle RB25]

6 minutes ago, Adamw said:

In your last log idle valve position, ignition timing and injector PW were all reasonably stable.  If it is not just too rich or lean causing a misfire, then there appears to be some other influence outside of the ecu. 

Thanks Adam, I've got another idle valve at home I'll test that out when I go home.
I took another log just now while idling and noticed something, the only thing is the fluctuation in the battery voltage going from approx 13.5 and approx 13.2 but not sure where that is coming from

[SOLVED Strange Idle RB25]

On 1/14/2022 at 3:57 AM, Adamw said:

Appears to be a misfire or fuel related issue to me.  Does it run smoother if you richen it up so the lambda is richer than stoich?  Is your wideband definitely an X series, not the older one?  Do you get a similar RPM drop if you disconnect one injector at a time?

Hi Adam,

I disconnected each injector while idling, it made the typical misfire, but still didn't replicate the big up and down of the idle.
Since posting, I have played with many idle settings, have been using open loop, changed base position while car is heating up, but once it gets above approx 80 deg it starts going up and down again.
It is fine from start up, up until around 75-80 deg C it starts playing up.

[SOLVED Strange Idle RB25]

11 hours ago, essb00 said:

Some thoughts...

AFR too lean. Why do you have Master Fuel -35%?

Turn on ISC Idle Ignition Control
MAP lockout - put a little bit higher value as your idle MAP touches up on it.
Integral Gain - you may need to set this a little bit lower to minimize oscillation
Min Clamp - your value is too low
Idle Base Position table - values too low for target idle

So, you need to follow the open loop idle speed control procedure in the help file. If you've gotten the idle close to target, by then you can change to closed loop idle speed control. 

3 hours ago, Vaughan said:

Does it sound like it's missing at idle? A miss will present as being lean due to the unburnt oxygen

3 hours ago, Adamw said:

Appears to be a misfire or fuel related issue to me.  Does it run smoother if you richen it up so the lambda is richer than stoich?  Is your wideband definitely an X series, not the older one?  Do you get a similar RPM drop if you disconnect one injector at a time?

 

Thanks for your responses,

essb00 I've tried your suggestions but this made the car worse, my master fuel is set at -35% as my afr when driving shows that number is best, around 11.5 stoich at WOT.

Vaughan and Adamw, The car does seem like it has a slight misfire on idle due to the leanness.
When I richen it above stoich, the idle still jumps up for 5 seconds and down for about 10 seconds but does sound smoother. I didn't want to leave it like this because the values just didn't seem correct, it made my map have a big high spot.

I will disconnect injectors one at a time later today and report back and yes 100% the x series wideband.

I'd also like to add that when driving under 10% throttle, the car also misfires and reads lean but anything more, it drives smooth and shows nice AFR again.

 

The only time it has gotten better was when I retarded the timing on my ignition map in the idle section. I was playing around and gave -50 retard next to a +14 deg advanced cell to play with a lumpy cam sound and the idle didn't oscillate like it does now, only when it is at "normal" ignition values the car idles funny.

I should have also mentioned in my first post I did advance my intake cam ever so slightly (with a VCT adjustment plate from boostdoc), before I did this the idle didn't oscillate at all.
So, since advancing the intake cam, the car doesn't want to stay at a particular idle target, also car turns off after about 30 mins of idling and will not start once ECT is above 90deg C.

I know it's a lot to read but I appreciate the effort and time you guys put into this forum.

[SOLVED Strange Idle RB25]

Hey Everyone,

Wondering if anyone can help me out with this idle issue I have,
Idle jumps up and down and cant seem to figure out why.

For example while idling, the AFR is very lean for some reason. AFR Guage in car shows it jumps between 22 and 16ish sometimes between 22 and 29 when at operating temp. When cold sometimes its between 9 and 15, so a very large range.
I've tried adjusting the fuel table to try make it idle at a normal AFR but values look way to high (idle values higher than WOT values).

So I've left it how it was, just wondering if anyone can look at my map and log to see if there is anything strange they can see.

 

Thanks

130122 weird idle.pclx weird idle.llgx

[Car will not start! can I get help with a map check?]

24 minutes ago, r33lew said:

I have been trying to start my car for the first time after a 2 year build..

r33 gtr - RB26

I've got spark on all cylinders, injection also. 

I've done a trigger scope and have both cam and crank pulsing although seems to be a bit of fluctuation, not sure if this is normal.

Base timing has been set and mechanical checked.

I'm using a link can lambda, and would like to run closed loop, so i can just do heat cycles pre dyno. i can find the device in the CAN 1 but when i select Lambda 1, in FUEL Link can is not selected, is this right?

Modifications that I feel need to be noted are,

* PRP Crank and Cam Triggers (12-1 NO missing tooth)

* R35 coils

* ASNU 1050cc injectors

R33GTR current.pclx 437.39 kB · 2 downloads

I had a similar problem, but this was after installing an aem 24 tooth cas disc.

Adam told me to add or subtract 360 from the current offset in the trigger calibration section, I subtracted 360 (ended up on -356) and it fired up straight away.

[Rb26 PRP 12 Tooth Trigger Issue]

4 hours ago, Adamw said:

Have you tried adding of subtracting 360 deg from your offset?  You are potentially sparking on exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke.  

Perfect, thanks Adam, do you know why it would have to be -360 for it to run?

[Rb26 PRP 12 Tooth Trigger Issue]

3 hours ago, Adamw said:

Setting trigger offset is one of the most basic fundamentals of setting up an ecu, it must be done on every engine before tuning is attempted. Any tuner should know how to do this and would do it everyday.  Instructions below from the help file.  

 

 

Hi Adam.

Are you able to recommend correct settings for 24 tooth AEM CAS Disc?
I've just installed one in my rb25 cas, correct settings (24 tooth, pull up on, falling)
Set base timing to exactly 15 Deg.
Get "yes" on trigger 1 and 2, but cant start up for some reason.

The scope also looks fine.

[Evo 8 air fuel ratio changing by itself]

We had this same problem in my brothers EG Civic, thought the fuel pump might be dying, opened the tank, and it was full of rust/corrosion.

[Show WOT on log]

Thanks Adam, for some reason I didnt even think of showing TPS as a parameter on the time plot! what an idiot haha
That'll show exactly what I'm after

[Show WOT on log]

Hey everyone,

Apologies if this has been answered,
I'm wondering if there is an option to highlight the sections where you were at 100% TPS or above 80% etc during the log?
I know I can go through the log bit by bit and see when 100% was reached but Im just wondering if this is also possible?

Thank you

[OVERBOOSTING PROBLEM]

3 hours ago, Adamw said:

If it overboosts with the wastegate DC table set to zero then it is not ecu related.   It could only be either plumbing or mechanical.

Thanks Adam, I'll look at some different options of routing the vacuum lines and go from there.

[OVERBOOSTING PROBLEM]

Still seem to be overboosting, spring is a 14psi spring,

I've set the map limit to 255 to fix the cutting temporarily but its still overboosting hard which is a worry. Its boosting to approx 20.8 psi now, feels fast as fuck but its just not right lol

Hopefully the enging isn't going lean. My tuner told me it was tuned to around 11 afr for safety so I doubt its going lean

[OVERBOOSTING PROBLEM]

Sorry, may  have uploaded wrong file.

Please see attached @Adamw, Thanks heaps

LATEST.pclx

[OVERBOOSTING PROBLEM]

Hi guys,

Car is R32 with RB25 S2 engine, link g4x ecu, I was wondering if anyone can help me out as to why my car is over boosting.

Was tuned on dyno, all was fine for a few months, upgraded turbo to a slightly slightly larger one, waiting for another tune now.

It's meant to only reach 1.2 bar, but its going up to 1.5 and hitting cut.

Just want to confirm it is not something mechanical before I take it in for a proper re-tune.

Things I've done:
- Recorded the waste gate while driving (to make sure its opening)

- Ground out my bell mouth dump pipe, to make sure the flap isn't getting caught on anything, it opens fully.

- Went over vacuum lines, replaced some, all were fine.

 

Ive attached the log here, also the tune file.

You can see at around 2:30 where it happens.

Let me know if you see anything,

Thanks heaps

overboosting.llgx JOEL.pclx

[[SOLVED] NO SPARK RB25 S2]

SOLVED!

Had a very weak ground if anyone was wondering and had a similar problem

[[SOLVED] NO SPARK RB25 S2]

16 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Do you have a spark when you use the ignition test function? 

Can you attach your tune and a log of it cranking.

Hi Adam,

Thanks for the quick response, no sparks when I use ignition test function, will upload tune plus log of engine cranking this evening.

Thanks for your help

[[SOLVED] NO SPARK RB25 S2]

Hi Everyone,

 

Apologies for another thread, I just cant wrap my head around why I cant get any spark.

New ECU install on an RB25 Series 2,
Checked wiring for coils - OK, getting 12v
Checked coils - OK
Checked plugs - OK
Trig 1 Signal - YES
Trig 2 Signal - YES

And I am getting approx 150-300RPM when cranking.

Connected ground to plug body and tried cranking, no sparks.

Any ideas would be great!
Thank you

[IAT SENSOR CAL TABLE]

Hi Adam,

Thanks for your response,
When I select the "Delphi AC IAT" the temperature shows -40c, do you know why would it show -40c?

Thanks

[IAT SENSOR CAL TABLE]

Hi everyone,

 

I have a Link G4X in an rb25 s2 and I'm trying to set up the IAT sensor, its a GM sensor and there's no option for that one.

From what I've read, I need to set up a cal table, I've tried doing what I can and the temperature now shows at 0c instead of 150c

Anyone with a similar sensor able to help?

 

Thanks

[LINK PLUGIN UNLOCK CODE]

All sorted thanks

[LINK PLUGIN UNLOCK CODE]

3 hours ago, neil brown said:

The suppling dealer should provide it

Neil, Yes you're correct.

I have got in contact with him he is just taking a while to get back to me. Hence why I was asking on this forum.

Thanks