JonM

Ok awesome thank you!

Sorry I meant Quick tune

Sorry I forgot to check back here. Thanks for the advice. I'll make the suggested changes. Yes the three weird values were from vacuum (-20PSI) autotune seems to hugely bump up the numbers in that area, is there an easy fix for this? I was just thinking of setting them to a more normal value

Hey guys! I've been running this all week and it's not too bad, some things need tweaks and boost/ AFR in boost needs some work but IMO it's a pretty safe and workable map so i'll leave it here incase someone else wants a starting point for the GTX/GTR(GTX might need additional changes IDK) Specs(standard unless otherwise stated): MAF delete 7 Bar MAP sensor Link IAT1-8 air temp sensor AEM X-series wideband UEGO controller 30-310 Boost maxes out at 16PSI Shouldn't make a huge difference but should be taken into consideration when tuning: Hybrid VJ23 turbo cone filter upgraded intercooler decat 323GTR.pclx

Aha ok only recognising Link products was the problem. I thought I was missing something! It really threw me off because I've seen settings for X-series and I searched for quite a while and couldn't find them Things are running alot better now! idle is pretty smooth, Lambda reading good. It looks like it's ready for some slow driving around the industrial estate to get some settings. Thank you everyone for all the help, would have been so f*cked without it, the ECU probably would have sat on a shelf for another 2 years until I found someone to fit it, I'll report back in a day or two with hopefully good news

Am I missing something here guys? I've wired the wideband, got power etc. Turned off analog, set CAN to user defined, ID 384, extended. I click find devices and it says it can't find devices. Do I have something set wrong or is this a signal wiring issue? 323GTR.pclx

OK got you thanks guys, so two wires to the ECU and two wires to power the controller

Ah OK I thought the analog would just be switched to digital on the ECU side. So leave the old lambda wiring as it is and use the CAN1 connector (green/black) AEMnet -/ CANL > CAN1 L (white/black) AEMnet +/ CANH > CAN1 H (blue) serial TX > RS232-TX white + brown > analog signal don't bother connecting red + black > ignition live and earth

Awesome thanks for the recommendation and help. This is the unit i'm needing? there's two very similar name and part no's, the 30-0300 unit which comes with a gauge and looks to be the 0-5V analog output I shouldn't bother with, and this one without gauge but the same price that seems to be made exactly for the job? https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/aem-x-series-in-line-electronics-wideband-uego-air-fuel-controller-aem30-0310/ EDIT Nevermind I went and bought it anyway, i figured it was right. My old lambda has 2 heater +/- (white) and signal (black) I'm guessing white analog + > (white) brown analog - > (white) Blue serial > (black) AEMnet +/- not used?

Ah OK, I misunderstood, I was under the assumption the maps were designed to run and be safe enough to drive to be mapped properly. So If i pick up an LC-1 sensor it should largely fix the misfiring issues, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166455744865?itmmeta=01HSEEM7AGJJXYTBPE7H79JV2B&hash=item26c1891961:g:ZwMAAOSwRy9lQlA0&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8E9fjLkbKjW%2F4vViSZDLPX2kk%2BL6IhiRtaOWHnbSLy%2FH1chJklF6dZ3t4qSBxNVxR3C7t9lZeMESgbnvnP2xMSVFd9Ayi6KcI6UEQXYv7VW66jnuu7aFpalubShjoba1UcSdn2jy%2FHmayBn0taK4sXu7diSagg8nWiffR051x3TF6JJ5x0MOmaTHp04t4uTRir70HcGsVLbbmINZ%2B1tNKyyIkGlIl2Z6Uz0668IIJ7lKCgS6c%2BbakuBnyXDoVcr7RtJowTwS9dNOMOhkyliLmaekfgPHEtBGzlu8bC4etGVFoirL913SPdBGrpNumoQ5qQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6z10M7LYw along with connector https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274737911825?itmmeta=01HSEF2J2D0S7F7RPX52M99SK9&hash=item3ff7a7d811:g:b40AAOSw3t9gYbiA&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwKxhcWowObXg0wKfHM106e%2FchyCwplhWO0Z%2F396LC%2B%2Bdafp%2FRTrClObmjsEko5hMHqbYP0gv7wAXIyZ%2FWNVfg%2Bu68rXUZRVJYwcu2eI04p3y7Hlw9uQ57f%2BuiSQN33J6hc9WuB5dOSGC4wTuhH5QogRVq23%2BEGiu%2Flwb1hGJXu9ROKfgLfrOgFr3v9TyFgFurggbturLOL2TM13WCrfFr6cdm1LzEAHofLlOGt%2F5pil7lvq9dU%2BiDNQnYv6c76Ym5Q%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8Chis_LYw Are there any wiring diagrams for 3 to 5 wire sensors? I'm also seeing I might need to buy the wideband CAN controller?

Nothing but standard 3 pin OEM Lambda. The gauge I'm talking about is the one displayed in the Link application so I guess I'd need to pick up a wideband, but my main concern is the base map should be good enough to run the engine reliably? But it's pretty horrible, anything over 3000rpm results in misfiring and it won't even rev over 4000rpm. I doubt this would be able to pull it's own weight

OK thanks for the reply I'm running a standard lambda connected to an volt 2. I'm unsure if I have an issue or whether this is the process, it says Lambda connected but when pressing autotune it flickers between attempting to tune and no WB signal detected, also lambda 1 on the "gauge" flickers between zero and well atm the moment 0.7 underfueling. Pressing throttle seems to make the signal more reliable, to me this suggests my lambda is faulty? or is there something i'm missing?? Also am I required to run a MAF? I wired the IAT and have onboard MAP sensor, am I safe to turn MAF off? 323GTR.pclx

Ah Legend. I got the injector grouping figured but I would have never got the high/low fuel pump working The car idles, revs smoothly between 1000-3000RPM, but misfires above that and won't rev any higher, then when I let off throttle revs will drop right down the nearly stalling before recovering after a few seconds? Is this simply because not enough data has been collected for the mixture map and a quick tune will fix it? or is there a bigger issue? PC Datalog - 2024-03-19 3;52;26 pm.llgx

Right ok thanks. Hmmm it turns out the fuel pump does activate if i press throttle? I can hear the relay kicking in and out, i don't remember hearing it sound like it sounds though, it's almost flickering on/off, if i hold the throttle in the same place the revs continuously hunt and if i drop to idle it stops kicking in and the car stalls, it also sounds very misfirey too when revving and strongly smells of fuel 323GTR.pclx

If I put a live to the fuel pump the car runs, the pump is on DI4which only powers the fuel pump, but DI4 is set to start position and primes it and I can't seem to assign fuel pump to it. I can unassign start position from DI4 but there's no option to assign it to fuel pump. So instead i'd have to wire the fuel pump to an Aux so the ECU can power the pump?