castillaricardo

You don’t need a fuel pressure sensor, but having one is more accurate. With your current settings the ECU calculates differential pressure = (base pressure - MGP). For instance, when you saved your tune, it was showing 464 kPa differential fuel pressure since your base is 400kPa, and idle MGP was -64kPa.

High VE is certainly a sign that the injector data is incorrect or could be your fuel pressure is low. My interpretation of that injector data is that you need to create a 3d table with the deadtime * differential fuel pressure because of the returnless fuel system. I'm not sure if you should use the 3 bar or 4 bar fuel pressure numbers as a starting point since their correction table is based on a 3 bar scale but you could do trial and error to find what is close to the correct numbers. Check out KORacing's explanation on the process: And your tune seems like a fine starting point. I would 0 the warmup enrichment all together unless you've found you need it by now.

You're missing the CAN configurations. Follow the instructions Laminar posted above and note that the "Find Devices" function only works for Link devices (Link CAN Lambda, etc.). You can find these instructions in the Help File (F1, or right click "What's This?" in PCLink) under G4X and G5 ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information

You should try a few of the things koracing mentioned to find which is the cause. In your tune, the commanded throttle opening while cranking and idling at cold temperatures is higher than the max clamp of your idle control. You could try increasing the max clamp to 10% and see if it improves some. More than likely it is a combination of things.

What firmware are you using for the Spartan 3s? And what performance mode do you have the controllers set to? I encountered a similar issue when trying Performance mode 0, and Alan said firmware 1.09 should fix it, but I haven’t been able to test. If you have the same issue as me, you can set them to Performance 1 or upgrade the firmware. https://14point7.discoursehosting.net/t/spartan-3-shows-0-lambda-sporadically/250

Your Idle Base Position is set to 0 across the board, but the min clamp setting is set to 10%, which is how some air is entering the engine. You should set the base position table to a value that lets the engine idle at your wanted RPM. 10-11% seems close for your engine. Also, your idle ignition settings seem odd. Mainly the Idle Ignition Table seems like it was setup for a G4+? Try using a single target of around 10BTDC, and let the ECU do the rest. You shouldn't change the target with RPM error, the ecu will do that with the PD algorithm. Another item is that the engine was idling lean by the end of the log, around 1.1 Lambda, so it needs more fuel. A lean mixture affects idle quality.

Yes, this is correct. Choose the mx5 36-2 trigger and it’ll work.

That’s better than the previous screenshot! What was the temperature there? The cursor seems to have been elsewhere. I’ve found post start enrichment to be very tricky, and currently have it set very low for -20 to 20c, like 10-20%, and yet need it a bit high for about a minute when the engine is heat soaked to combat the injectors being hot. I have no clue how this might be in a VQ, so would like to hear what you end up with. These injectors I have seem to be finicky to temperature, so it may not be indicative of “normal”? You could play with first crank enrichment, which is a percent added to the crank enrichment for the first revolution. It could help with the initial catch while having lower enrichment overall. I played with large increments of 50%, then 20% up/down. If you can force your lambda controller to stay on while cranking that would also help you understand if you have too much or too little fuel.

You’re welcome. I hope it helps. Around here our 91 is E10. I think you could make your 0% row 40% of your 100% row, and interpolate in between for a closer guesstimate; of course trial and error is the only way to tune crank enrichment.

The pre-crank prime is HUGE. It is set to 150, which means 150ms of injector opening time not percentage of VE. Your idle settings also have a max clamp of 5.5%, so your throttle is not being allowed to open much more, and this could be one reason for the undulation. 5.5% base + 0.7% offset should have been 6.2% throttle, but you were getting 5.5-5.7%. Try these changes: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JZV8eXtzYR4wsUmJgkBBYEjBZmvj62yp/view?usp=sharing On a side note: Your crank enrichment is very low for non-e85 fuel. Have you tuned that area yet? At least in my case, anything under 150% enrichment causes failed start at 20C on 91 octane.

It seems you need more throttle opening for this temperature, because your idle stabilized around 5.5%TPS, but your cranking was around 5.1%TPS. Is your idle ignition control kicking in while cranking? Try a longer hold time, more cold start TPS offset, and ~15 idle ignition target.

@Adamw If I understand correctly, then a diode is not necessary when swapping an NB2 motor into an NB1 car running the NB1 plugin ECU? I was planning to use Aux 4 (previously the VICS solenoid) for the VVT output.

You should use the signal ground from the ECU, not chasis ground. Same for the 5v pin, use the ECUs 5v pin. Using chasis ground would cause a ground offset and inaccurate readings. Can you post a link to the instructions for someone to double check? You can upload your tune to a file sharing site and post a sharing link here. Make sure the permissions are public.

I’m not near my laptop right now to check, but my MX5 NB1 plugin has ignition 3 and 4 available through one of the expansion headers, and it can also power a wideband controller through the CAN header. I’ve had no issues with the Spartan 3 in my NB this way with the caveat of not being able to run while stalled, or using error codes which the Link CAN provides. I want to echo koracing and stress how easy it is to get voltage offsets with the Innovate wideband because it doesn’t have a dedicated ground for the controller. Steer clear of it. AEM X series or Spartan 3 are good solutions.

The basemap should get the car running. I had to make the following changes on mine: 1. Set clutch input to DI 1, Pull-up On and active state Low 2. Change Driven Wheel Speed Source to GP Speed 1 to use Launch Control and Gear Shift Control 3. Set Tacho to Aux 2 (This is fixed in the G5 sample map) Also make sure you're on the latest firmware and Alternator Control is On. The default PID settings have worked well for me. The only change I made there was a 3D table for the feed-forward values based on the cooling fans being on.