JonM
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Posts posted by JonM
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Sorry I meant Quick tune
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Sorry I forgot to check back here.
Thanks for the advice. I'll make the suggested changes.Yes the three weird values were from vacuum (-20PSI) autotune seems to hugely bump up the numbers in that area, is there an easy fix for this? I was just thinking of setting them to a more normal value
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Hey guys! I've been running this all week and it's not too bad, some things need tweaks and boost/ AFR in boost needs some work but IMO it's a pretty safe and workable map so i'll leave it here incase someone else wants a starting point for the GTX/GTR(GTX might need additional changes IDK)
Specs(standard unless otherwise stated):
MAF delete
7 Bar MAP sensor
Link IAT1-8 air temp sensor
AEM X-series wideband UEGO controller 30-310
Boost maxes out at 16PSI
Shouldn't make a huge difference but should be taken into consideration when tuning:
Hybrid VJ23 turbo
cone filter
upgraded intercooler
decat
323GTR.pclx -
Aha ok only recognising Link products was the problem. I thought I was missing something! It really threw me off because I've seen settings for X-series and I searched for quite a while and couldn't find them
Things are running alot better now! idle is pretty smooth, Lambda reading good.
It looks like it's ready for some slow driving around the industrial estate to get some settings. Thank you everyone for all the help, would have been so f*cked without it, the ECU probably would have sat on a shelf for another 2 years until I found someone to fit it
, I'll report back in a day or two with hopefully good news
- castillaricardo and Laminar
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2
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Am I missing something here guys? I've wired the wideband, got power etc. Turned off analog, set CAN to user defined, ID 384, extended. I click find devices and it says it can't find devices. Do I have something set wrong or is this a signal wiring issue?
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OK got you thanks guys, so two wires to the ECU and two wires to power the controller
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Ah OK I thought the analog would just be switched to digital on the ECU side.
So leave the old lambda wiring as it is and use the CAN1 connector
(green/black) AEMnet -/ CANL > CAN1 L
(white/black) AEMnet +/ CANH > CAN1 H
(blue) serial TX > RS232-TX
white + brown > analog signal don't bother connecting
red + black > ignition live and earth -
Awesome thanks for the recommendation and help. This is the unit i'm needing? there's two very similar name and part no's, the 30-0300 unit which comes with a gauge and looks to be the 0-5V analog output I shouldn't bother with, and this one without gauge but the same price that seems to be made exactly for the job?
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/aem-x-series-in-line-electronics-wideband-uego-air-fuel-controller-aem30-0310/
EDITNevermind I went and bought it anyway, i figured it was right.
My old lambda has 2 heater +/- (white) and signal (black)
I'm guessing
white analog + > (white)
brown analog - > (white)
Blue serial > (black)
AEMnet +/- not used? -
Ah OK, I misunderstood, I was under the assumption the maps were designed to run and be safe enough to drive to be mapped properly.
So If i pick up an LC-1 sensor it should largely fix the misfiring issues,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166455744865?itmmeta=01HSEEM7AGJJXYTBPE7H79JV2B&hash=item26c1891961:g:ZwMAAOSwRy9lQlA0&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8E9fjLkbKjW%2F4vViSZDLPX2kk%2BL6IhiRtaOWHnbSLy%2FH1chJklF6dZ3t4qSBxNVxR3C7t9lZeMESgbnvnP2xMSVFd9Ayi6KcI6UEQXYv7VW66jnuu7aFpalubShjoba1UcSdn2jy%2FHmayBn0taK4sXu7diSagg8nWiffR051x3TF6JJ5x0MOmaTHp04t4uTRir70HcGsVLbbmINZ%2B1tNKyyIkGlIl2Z6Uz0668IIJ7lKCgS6c%2BbakuBnyXDoVcr7RtJowTwS9dNOMOhkyliLmaekfgPHEtBGzlu8bC4etGVFoirL913SPdBGrpNumoQ5qQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6z10M7LYwalong with connector
Are there any wiring diagrams for 3 to 5 wire sensors? I'm also seeing I might need to buy the wideband CAN controller?
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Nothing but standard 3 pin OEM Lambda. The gauge I'm talking about is the one displayed in the Link application so I guess I'd need to pick up a wideband, but my main concern is the base map should be good enough to run the engine reliably? But it's pretty horrible, anything over 3000rpm results in misfiring and it won't even rev over 4000rpm. I doubt this would be able to pull it's own weight
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OK thanks for the reply
I'm running a standard lambda connected to an volt 2. I'm unsure if I have an issue or whether this is the process, it says Lambda connected but when pressing autotune it flickers between attempting to tune and no WB signal detected, also lambda 1 on the "gauge" flickers between zero and well atm the moment 0.7 underfueling. Pressing throttle seems to make the signal more reliable, to me this suggests my lambda is faulty? or is there something i'm missing??
Also am I required to run a MAF? I wired the IAT and have onboard MAP sensor, am I safe to turn MAF off?
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Ah Legend. I got the injector grouping figured but I would have never got the high/low fuel pump working
The car idles, revs smoothly between 1000-3000RPM, but misfires above that and won't rev any higher, then when I let off throttle revs will drop right down the nearly stalling before recovering after a few seconds?Is this simply because not enough data has been collected for the mixture map and a quick tune will fix it? or is there a bigger issue?
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Right ok thanks. Hmmm it turns out the fuel pump does activate if i press throttle? I can hear the relay kicking in and out, i don't remember hearing it sound like it sounds though, it's almost flickering on/off, if i hold the throttle in the same place the revs continuously hunt and if i drop to idle it stops kicking in and the car stalls, it also sounds very misfirey too when revving and strongly smells of fuel
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If I put a live to the fuel pump the car runs, the pump is on DI4which only powers the fuel pump, but DI4 is set to start position and primes it and I can't seem to assign fuel pump to it. I can unassign start position from DI4 but there's no option to assign it to fuel pump. So instead i'd have to wire the fuel pump to an Aux so the ECU can power the pump?
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OK it starts, but stalls after a few seconds and can't be revved, i think it's the fuel pump not pressurising the line?
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OK, It's 3 years later and i've got time to do this again and i still haven't worked out what is wrong
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I can assign GP output to AUX 5 but have no idea on settings to use. I'm stuck in the situation of can't track my timing light down but don't really want to pay for another but regardless if it fires on only 2 cylinders then does nothing afterwards it's not a timing issue right now
I already did a triggerscope
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Hi guys. I recently put a G4X into a Mazda GTR. The engine is based on the MX5 1.8 so the MX5 map has been loaded
Map is MX5 7 bar map using a 7 bar map sensor
I've connected MAP and link IAT
Changed fuel pump to injector three and have at least 3 second prime as set under fuel pump settings
Attempting to assign aux 5 to fuel pres. Reg. Sol. But I can't find it listed although testing aux 5 does activate the selonoid for the fuel rail pressure valve.
Changed ignition mode to distributor and only using ignition 1 output (ignition 2 is set to boost selonoid)
Engine is generally a complete none starter. On turnover and fuel pump prime it occasionally fires on 1/2 cylinders then nothing. Oddly sometimes on ignition it ignites unburnt fuel in a cylinder also
, I'll report back in a day or two with hopefully good news
MAZDA MX5/GTR into Mazda GTR
in G4x
Posted
Ok awesome thank you!