shanky
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Posts posted by shanky
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PC Datalog - 2023-02-12 3;16;42 pm.zipthis is a slightly better run, with occasional missfire after some changes to test
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Honda Civic 96-99 G4X Xtreme Plugin - 025 new injectors - fpr fuel pressure sensor installed.pclx
Please see attached - I changed the master fuel ms and it helped somewhat, but once again at full temp its idling with issues again
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Apologies forgot the map file - I will re check and sort another log as I think I have changed it since then
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@Adamw Can I use the ISC solenoid on another aux other than 1/2/3/4?
Also I am unable to update to the latest firmware as I still have the safe mode error from the last update.
I also seem to have an odd issue with fuelling and what seems to be injector issues - even though I have moved them around to ensure these new bosch ev14s are not at fault - log attached
I have updated to the new link software just incase, and its rather on and off, if I turn idle control / ignition control off it some times stabilises. I thought I was struggling with low duty cycle at 2% but then it ran perfectly fine once turning everything of @1.3% for a while. I am lost.
I will place oem injectors back in tomorrow to double check and report back.
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Honda Civic 96-99 G4X Xtreme Plugin - 022 knockplay.zip
As per DM - @aerace_fab do I adjust each cylinder until they are even? using the ind cyl knock gain
@Adamw @aerace_fabI have posted my map above - I have the car mapped on a dyno and she is running very well, but as my main goal is MPG, I was wondering what method if any I could deply to increase my mpg.
I am aware of the ability of learn burn on low load, and to advance timing, could you provide some advice?
also I have observed other people suggesting vtec triggering a 4d/5d table. is this a more proficient way of doing things. I fear I am in a position where if I were to change my mgp vtec trigger this would alter things and leave me with a flawed map. I often find myself not needing vtec on motorway speeds in the uk the way it triggers over is quite nice / only when you need it. but I do wonder if I am loosing mpg by not being mapped correctly off vtec due to my current configuration.
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Thanks again @Adamw- I will refine and balance the cylinders against medium load/revs
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14 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Your gain is too high. Start at 1, then adjust until your average knock level at medium rpm/medium load is around say 100-300
do I need to worry that I got the same noise reading with and without the sensor connected?
Do you have a link ( i think I have seen you post it before on how to setup logging ) for when I need to send you my map and logs in the future for support - and I imagine that includes my map file also.
i noticed you post this link before on setup of knock - do link have a setup guide on knock control - tuning. Or do i need to go to people like hp academy to learn?
Thanks you.
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1. I seem to have noise on the line, even when I have no sensor, or loom attached, is this normal?
the furthest right blip/rev was with the sensor connected - no change. Am i missing something?
2. pin out - is this correct?
knock to D6
Sensor ground and shield ground to D13
below is the link pin out to support
On 5/4/2022 at 10:04 PM, Adamw said:Yeah that should be fine. You might want to lift that MAP lockout up a bit as many engines wont get below 50kpa when cold. Set actuator type to none.
worked a treat thank you
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On 11/30/2022 at 11:22 AM, Adamw said:
APS needs to be calibrated, it is only going as low as 1.5% so idle control isnt activating most of the time.
E-throttle target table should have zeros right across the top row.
Change Idle actuator integral gain to 0.03.
The idle base position table needs about 2 added to it right across.
Drop idle ign target to 10deg, increase idle ign max clamp to 30deg.
Fuel system type should be set to MAP referenced or FP sensor if you had one.
Hey Adam, what was the reason you advised “Change Idle actuator integral gain to 0.03.” ? For my own learning / knowledge. Many thanks
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Hey All, I know it is nothing special, but I imagine plenty of people were wanting to do this to a civic of their choice and perhaps could of done with a guide - or outline of what it takes, so I will do a write up. (I am not a professional to be clear) Project is still ongoing and looking to eek more and more mpg out of the old girl. And I imagine there are better ways of doing a better job! My name is Christopher and I am from the UK
I have recently purchased a Ferrari Mondial and plan on dropping a K24 in it, hopefully putting a link in that car too!
I will drop in the thread my pin outs and my adaptions on the harness converter to help anyone who needs support.
Car info -
1993 Honda Del Sol / OBD1
Car was an OBD1 B16a2 and used a an OBD1 to OBD2a adapter loom (a reverse loom I believe is what they call it https://www.speedfactoryracing.net/products/speedfactory-obd1-to-obd2a-reverse-ecu-conversion-harness?_pos=2&_sid=51c622e73&_ss=r)
I chose a B18C6 Engine which is OBD2a. Using an S80 LSD box with 4.7 FD, with a Integra LS 0.714 5th gear to eek out more mpg / lower revs at motorway speeds (has a handy shorter ratio 1/2/3rd gear too)
Items used so far -
Purchased an OBD2a HC96X unit - as this had knock sensor input vs the 92x (still need to setup) - I would argue after buying the below ethrottle and wideband module, perhaps the standalone units monsoon/open loomed etc would of been a better choice - but the plug in capability was a great appeal to me.
Link Ethrottle Module
Link Wideband Module
2x Link Expansion cables
OBD1 female to OBD2a male adapter loop
3D printed throttle body adapter (carbin fibre mixed extruded)
I chose a Bosch ethrottle / 68mm - I chose this as it calculated out at closer to the OEM throttle body volume, as the smaller, yet similar in diameter to OEM throttle body was lower in area due to the size of the butterfly's centre support. The honda throttle body had a machined down spindle for greater flow. I imagine the bosch unit is a lot sturdier due to its use in turbo aplication - https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_68749835_Electronic_Throttle_Body.pdf
For APS or PPS depending from where you are from - The ePedal I chose a rather generic and widely available unit from an Audi TT / Audi TT 8N 6 Speed Automatic Accelerator Pedal 8N2723503B. This unit had a kick down feature in the form of a sprung bump stop, so nothing flashy there.
I also used a OBD2a distributor from the Integra DC2 to ensure the correct ignition system (Honda Acura OEM Ignition Distributor Assy 30100-P73-A02(TD-87U) B16 B18 CIVIC) with a OBD1 to OBD2a 10pin Converter. This was genuine and meant for the B18C6 engine. Be aware you will need to match (I believe) the trigger arming thresholds if you use the earlier OBD1 distributor, as when I was experimented it was the difference between firing up and not!
I also converted the cars carbon canister activation / aka purge valve to a PWM Purge valve from the later b18 Integra. Not required but I wished to do so to ensure maximum fuel vapour recorvery from the tank.
Base Map usage - "Honda Civic 96-99 G4X Xtreme Plugin not tuned"
Pinout Diagram
Google Sheet of Pinout - this is my active export - so I will be changing things as I go on based on my requirements.
Active Discussion
Open question and discussion thread I have on going - Purchase and Questions
I will follow up with more detail as time goes on!
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Thank you - Just seen this and will have a go - Appreciated as ever @Adamw
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Any chance a 2 button cruise control could be created (up and down button)
hold up for on/enable
hold down to resume
tap up for speed increase and down for lower
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Perfect thank you @adamw
I have noticed your previous post on IACV delete on a b series ("https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/12123-iacv-delete/") - idle ignition control when removing the Idle control valve - you used the following settings (below)
Would this translate to below min max system as shown (below)?
I am using it as we speak as a test, and its idling lovely now, am i missing anything which may put the car at risk?
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Thank you for the above Adam, all actioned and working.
I have this firmware error @Adamw, please see attached image. The mapper updated the firmware with no issues, he then mapped the car successfully, and it’s driving and happy.
I seem to also have an error for “injector duty cycle above error high value”, it popped up in a high load / full pedal pull up a hill at the very end of my rev limit. Where can I find the threshold settings.
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Thank you all for your help- I am up and running and getting the car idling.
1) Am I correct in thinking I can connect the bosch knock sensor to the HC96X as following? Note - I am running an obd2a adapter to OBD1
Knock Sensor Plug @ Sensor Knock Sensor DT connector ECU 1 A (DT 3 Pin Connector) D6 2 B (DT 3 Pin Connector) D13 signal ground (it appears nothing was connected here) NO PIN 3 ( shield ) C (DT 3 Pin Connector) D13 Shared Shielding Earth / Ground 2a) I am struggling to find the visualisation menu for listening to knock audio to ensure it is working for when I take it to a mapper - where should I be looking?
2b) What Knock filter is recommended for a B18C Engine?
3) Should I be concerned that D13 Signal Ground was not populated on my loom? Everything seems to be working so far.
4) I have just realised I have put the Emodule earth straight to the -ve, should i rectify? place on the block/head?
@Adamw how can I send you beer money as thanks for your help bud?
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Hi There, please and thank you in advance.
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Setting up the LINK external E-throttle Controller - the HC96x manual suggests using Aux1/2 or Aux3/4. Are these fixed?
- If I were to use the expander connectors could I use the following for the eThrottle signals AUX7/8? and use one of the marked in YELLOW AUX feeds below for the Enable ("Enable must be connected to the selected E-Throttle Relay Auxiliary")
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Or instead run the two signal and one enable wire, and use the following as I am using a CAN wideband, do not have an intake runner solenoid, and ethrottle will replace the ISC. Assuming the oxy heaters are the same as the other aux outputs.
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If the above is fixed to Aux1/2 or Aux3/4, can I use any of the above Yellow or below Red, or to be honest any selection PCLink will allow me to select to replace for the moved aux' below?
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PCLink will allow me to select the follwoing - however are there any gotchas on certain outputs I shoud be aware of? (apart from stealing other sensors function holders)
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For TPS & FPS (Main and Sub + Pwr/Gnd)
- Can I use the Volt 5&6 8&9? for the sensor returns
- Can I use the the +5v out and Gnd for the power and ground for TPS and FPS (worried about load)
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Expansion Connector 1
Gnd Sensor Ground Only
+5V Out Low Current +5V Supply
Volt 5 Analog 0-5V input
Volt 6 Analog 0-5V input
Aux 7 Auxiliary Output
Aux 8 Auxiliary Output
Volt 7 Analog 0-5V input
Temp 3 Temperature sensor inputExpansion Connector 2
Ign 5 Ignition 5 Auxiliary Output
Ign 6 Ignition 6 Auxiliary Output
Ign 7 Ignition 7 Auxiliary Output
Ign 8 Ignition 8 Auxiliary Output
DI 9 Digital Input
DI 10 Digital Input
Volt 8 Analog 0-5V input
Volt 9 Analog 0-5V input
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Powering / signal the LINK E-throttle controller
- Power from the Main Relay, grounding straight to -ve or engine?
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Signal wires, shielded cable or without is fine?
Sorry for the long one - I hope I have made it as clear as possible - TIA Christopher
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Setting up the LINK external E-throttle Controller - the HC96x manual suggests using Aux1/2 or Aux3/4. Are these fixed?
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Hello All, am I correct in thinking that all the Link ECU range share all software functionality, however the hardware is the limitation / limit on input output functionality?
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On 1/6/2022 at 11:36 PM, aerace_fab said:
upgrade to a Bosch knock sensor, if you need help feel free to send me a message.
any reasoning to do so? is the bosch unit better? thank you for your response.
On 1/6/2022 at 8:24 PM, Adamw said:I dont have personal experience with the B18 but I havent heard of anyone having any issues with the factory sensor. Try it and see.
Thank you @Adamw
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@Adamw or anyone reading this, is the stock honda knock sensor comparible with the Link knock sensor? Should I think of converting, or leaving it as is? This is a non boosted application. TIA
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@Adamw Thank you, greatly appreciated. I have purchased the setup you have advised and will follow your advice.
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- Hello All, new poster here.
I have just purchased a new G4+ HC96X unit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Link-ECU-Honda-Civic-1996-98-Gen-6-Link-G4X-CivicLink-98-HC96X-PlugIn-/112107482411?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0.
Q1
- Does this come with the usb tuner cable and the PCBUSB cable as standard? Or do I need to purchase these separately? Either way to correctly mount the two cables either side of the case I need a CANF connector?
Q2
- My first step is to add a wideband sensor to the car for tuning use (no need for a display), the car being a Honda del sol / with a b18c6. It has its original narrowband lambda in position still, is it worth keeping this wired up to the g4 or simply removing it and replacing with a wideband sensor. Could I wire this direct to the ECU or would I need CAN Lambda?
If I do need CAN Lambda - If I were to purchase the kit - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LINK-ECU-G4-G4-G4x-CAN-LAMBDA-With-Bosch-LSU-4-9-Lambda-Sensor-/122225907744?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Q3
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As a whole, do I need purchase the following? assuming tuner cable and one canpcb is included? According to my diagram below,
- CANF X2
- CANPCB X1
- CANTLTW X1
- CANEXT X1
- CAN LAMBDA KIT X1
Q4
- Will I run in to issues given this will be the only CAN device on the bus? I have read info on the termination resistors. I am usnure if I direct connect ECU to CANLambda that I will have an issue.
Q5
- Are there suggested locations to ground the CAN Lambda (assuming I take a 10amp line direct from the battery) to avoid signal noise?
Q6
- Next would be upon installation - I have noted the warning
"DISCONNECT THE IGNITION COIL. This can be done by unplugging the large connectors going to the distributor."
Is this suggesting removal all connectors (RPM AND IGN plugs) physically on the Dizzy (I have an OBD1 loom and dizzy with two plugs, with a OBD2A conversion harness for the ECU, then ensuring these steps are followed?
This question is just me being paranoid about killing something.
Q7
- I have added wiring to include a knock sensor (OEM oarts for this engine), does this wire need to be shielded?
- If so where would you recommend grounding the shielding to?
I have recently purchased a Ferrari Mondial and plan on dropping a K24 in it, hopefully putting a link in that car too!
B18C6 Del Sol / HC96X / CAN lambda - purchase list and questions
in G4x
Posted
Thanks Adam.
In the end it was spark plugs. I traced injectors the lot, after two days of fault finding... its the simple things. Car is now in for mapping (again).
Noted on the ethrottle, I have been having poor idling I imagine this will help.
out of curiosuty @Adamw, the https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-010920-bosch-145-psi-fluid-pressure-and-temperature-sensor/ is that the same as the 10 bar bosch 0 261 230 340 in the cal files?
the car is being mapped for maxiumum economy and the standard b18c engine plug is a NGK IRIDIUM BKR7EIX-11 plug 1.1mm gap i believe by the end figure, would you recommend a change of plug for lean burning at all? or aggresive spark?