ae82ted
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Posts posted by ae82ted
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Thanks Adam,
Updated the firmware to 6.21, verified the base timing (-25 degree further), did a Cam Angle Test and no error occur anymore. Thanks a lot for your help
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Hi Adam,
Attached the trigger scope FYI. See what i can do with this. i tried to do CAM calibration again.. still fail.
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I've tried many times the calibrate...however it cames out "CAM SIGNAL ERROR" and the software change the number f tooth to sometime 1 or 0 by itself. i will do a trigger scope later when i back to the shop and see what happen.
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With the recommended PID setup the log as attached. Changed from Missing pulse to extra pulse and no signal.
Cam sensor connected to DI4 and Pin 60 sensor ground. -
Hi,
I've some problem with the CAM signal of the VCAM setup. The runtime value keeps flashing around "No Signal/Error: Missing Pulse"
if i try reving up above the rpm lockout value, the error counter added up 1 by 1 every time i rev above the lockout value.
Tried both 1JZ cam control or 3 evenly spaced setup also happen the same.. if i reverse the wires of the cam sensor it happens worst the error counter adding up much quicker.
Attached the calibration and log for your reference.
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Thanks Adam,
Car fires up smoothly now. Besides adding the fuel pump relay...i guess the main issue is the trigger timing was way off from the base map to -95...
Anyway, i used a multimeter to measure the current draw when switching off the car it was about 1.2uA, unplugging the 10A fuse of AC relay it doesnt change at all. Can i assume this car has no back feed problem?
I have another problem with the VCAM setup.. i will make a new topic for this. Thanks for your help.
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Thanks Adam,
For R34 i have moved the AC Relay and requedt from AUX3 to Aux11, and from DI4 to DI9 because of the VCAM. Not sure the backfeeding is happening or not now.
Im charging up the battery and try adding a seperate relay to the fuel pump and see if it would cure the starting problem.
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Hi all,
I'm having start up problem with two GTRLink G4X plugin ECU. The ECU dropped during cranking, with a little research it seems thats because of the current draw at the igntion switch during cranking.
A R33 GTS with GTRLink the voltage drops from 11.9 to 7V and ECU drops out of power. Engine crank but no start
Another R34 GTR with GTRLink the voltage drops from 11.9 to 6.8V and ECU drops out of line. Engine crank and not firing upThey both behave the same and battery drained quickly after a few tries.
I can see some fuel has been dumped to the cyclinders from the Lambda sensor but very very little. from 2.0 lambda to 1.3X lambda. No matter what Master fuel has set it doesnt change much.
Both cars doesnt wire up a seperate relay for power supply to the fuel pump yet.
I've just finished tuning a R33 GTR with old G4+ with seperate fuel pump relay added. This car has no issue and engine starts great and easy. When i start working on the R33 GTS yesterday the car couldnt start and starter motor spinning slowly and slowly everytime i try cranking the engine. We jump wires to the car it just keeps cranking but still no start.
Today when i work on the R34 GTR it behaves exactly the same like the R33 GTS...
If thats the ECCS relay power supply issue( Design Flaw), besides adding a seperate relay to the fuel pump to reduce the current draw at ignition switch, what else can be done?
Thanks!
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16 hours ago, Pete_89t2 said:
Your main problem is you're hooking up the timing light to the front rotor/#1 LEADING plug; it should be connected to the TRAILING. Below is a cut & paste from the PCLink help file that talks to setting up & calibrating the triggers on a rotary. This procedure worked like a charm for me with my FD, running a G4+ Fury (wired in) ECU. Should be the same for the G4X. Cut & Paste follows...
The normal procedure used to set Trigger Calibration does not work so well on Rotary engines. A piston engine will run happily with ignition timing set to fire on TDC. This is not so for Rotary engines.
Note: Most Rotary engines have a timing mark on their front pulley at 20 degrees ATDC. It is the tuners responsibility to confirm that the engine has a mark at 20 degrees. If the mark is at some other position, that position should be substituted in the following procedure. Late 13B engines only have a 20 degrees ATDC mark. Early 13B engines have a 5 and 20 degrees ATDC mark. 12A Engines have a 0 and 20 degrees ATDC marks.
Rotary Trigger Calibration Procedure
The idea of this trigger calibration setup method is to end up with the leading spark firing at 5 degrees ATDC and the trailing spark firing at 20 degrees ATDC.
1.Disable the fuel injectors by selecting OFF as the Injection Mode under the Fuel heading. This will ensure that the engine will not attempt to start while the ignition timing is being calibrated.
2.Enter a value of -20 degrees in the Trailing Split Table in all the cells around the area where the engine will run during trigger calibration. It may be necessary to set the entire table to the same value.
3.In the Triggers->Calibrate menu, click Set Base Timing. The Set Base Timing window will open.
4.Enter 0 as the Lock Ignition Timing To value to be used (remember to push enter after changing the number).
5.Attach a timing light to fire off the TRAILING spark of the front rotor.
6.Crank the engine while watching for consistent ignition operation at a fixed crank position. Adjust the Offset until the ignition is firing exactly on the 20 degrees ATDC timing mark.
7.Select Done to close the Set Base Timing window.
8.Enable the fuel injectors by selecting the relevant Injection Mode.
9.Perform a STORE so that the Trigger Offset value is permanently retained. Remember that the Trailing Split table has been modified so be careful not to Store changes to that by accident.
10 Repeat the above procedure once the engine is running (ideally at about 2000 RPM) as it is hard to get accurate timing readings during cranking. To do this, repeat the above procedure without setting Injection Mode to OFF.
Thanks a lot for your tips. I've used the above suggested procedure the outcome seems good. However its just 180degree advance from the G4X bas map. Which the base map is 173 degree and now i have to dial up to 353 and getting the best result. Either injectors off and with engine running the timing map spot on.
I'm just curious if there is any more i can do to confirm i'm not 180 degree off..........with 173 offset i cant even see the timing mark. is it something goes wrong when we assembling the engine?
Thanks again.
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We have just rebuilt an engine of a FD3S RX7 S6 with using G4X S6 Pnp ECU
We are facing some problem with the base timing setup.
With injector switched off, Timing gun hooked to Leading #1 cable. Stock trigger wheels suppose the timing mark is at 20ATDC. So we have tried to lock Ref timing as +20, and Offset 133 degree, we can see the timing mark line up perfectly. As my timing gun can only set at 0 degree minimum.
However, its very hard for starting the engine with 5 degree idle timing. So we set it as 25 degree at idle area and engine starts ok and stabilize at 1100rpm. An then we tried to check the timing again with the engine running, lock timing at the same +20 degree at but i have to dial up the timing gun to 40 degree for the timing mark to line up again........
I would like to know if there is anything wrong with the checking setup above. or if someone can guide me the correct procedures for setting up the base timing for this S6 engine.
We tried using the base map from the G4X folder. The trigger offset is 173. The engine starts ok and seems run ok however the timing mark never line up no matter injectors on or off... I can't even see the timing mark with my timing gun set as either 60 advance or at 0...
Please kindly help. Thanks!
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Hi,
I'm setting up the S15 plugin ECU with AEM IAT sensor (30-2014) fitted with the AFM wire
I've pinned the Jumper 8, set the input at AN 4 Volt. Setup the Cal 1 table with the figures on AEM instruction. The figures are with 2200ohms pull up resistor
I've a question with the External resistor setup. I believe it should be set at 2K2 External to match the figures i've input to the cal 1 table. However PClink shown 5C which the ambient temp here is around 22C. I tried switching the external resistor to 1K, 2K7 etc the IAT value doesnt change at all. I tried heating up the sensor the value does change quickly but not accurate.
I've attached the base file here for your reference. Not sure what's gone wrong.
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Thanks Adam,
The 3.33 was from the base map at the G4X folder. Finally i have set it to 1.4 which perform the best and stays on the same AFR after the lean spike.
For the Enrichment u described above do u mean the Accel Fuel at the stage injection tap? I have set it to 4.00 injection cycle its still spike lean during the transition. What else i can do to eliminate the spike?
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9 hours ago, Adamw said:
What are your injector sizes?
They are stock injectors.
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Thanks Adam for your recommendation
I put the car on dyno, set the secondary PW lockout to 0.6ms(the minimum allowed by the software)
Set the secondary to 0 at 80 and 85kpa boxes. Rev the engine in 4th gear 3000rpm and loading around 60kpa. when i change the secondary to 100% the engine goes bogging with the injector duties like on as off as shown on the pic.
I tried dial down to ratio to 1.00 it bogs for once and then go pig rich..i tried the ratio 1.5,2,3,4,5 all of them bogging continuously. The larger ratio it bogs more seriously.
I guess i may have to further reduce the value of RPM lockout avoiding the secondary switching off maybe?
Before doing this test i did dialed up the Master fuel from 12ms to 16ms and the engine behaves better during the transition. not sure it related to such issue.
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Hi,
I have some problem with the injectors fueling problem on a Stock FD3S with single turbo conversion.
Every time when the engine goes from negative to positive pressure around 100KPA the injector duty rise and fall back. It cause lean burning and the engine bog at the early beginning and i have to add way much more fuel around the transition area and it could run smoother.
Any ideas? attached the log and calibration for your reference.
Thanks in advance.
350ZLink PWM Control
in G4x
Posted
Hi All,
I;m working on a 350Z Turbo with using 350ZLink G4X ECU.
AUX8 is used for Boost Solenoid. I would like to add one more PWM control for the WaterMeth injection. But it seems there atre no more availble PWM output for it. AUX4 is emply but it seems no pins for connection to it. Is there anywhere i can hook up the Meth SSR to the ECU?