driftae76

I also have a super old Win7 laptop which runs PCLink G4+ stable so I have been using that for tuning (although the battery is cooked so its not ideal). I have tried running PCLink in compatability mode on the problem machines, Administratior permissions, fiddled with the graphics settings, none of which have made any difference If you could throw me some ideas I'd be happy do drill right down into it, no worries spinning up VM's and Inline debuggers etc.

Im having the exact same problem, two different computers (desktop and laptop) and yep same problem same crash logs, not even connected to the ecu just sitting there in the background and pclink g4+ will crash. Link has abandoned the G4+ platform i bought a thunder new must have been the same time they silently halted any software or firmeare updates while focussing on the latest and greatest

Thread bump. No ideas anyone? @Adamw?

Im in Brisbane, Australia, so the ECU was sent back to the Brisbane service department. Intially the battery was in the engine bay in its stock location, I then relocated it to the boot hoping that might fix my issue alas it did not. (Im a sparky by trade, used 50mm2 pos and neg leads up to the front properly crimped, heat shrink distribution studs, single earth chassis bond and strap to the block.. all that good stuff).. Also ran the ecu negatives out of each connector plug individually to single ground point on cyl head, + separated+isolated sensor earths.. Is there any posibility of switching my ecu with a known 'good' unit for purposes of testing? or pay some sort of bond to obtain a loan ecu for testing? You can probably sense my desparation, I just really want to try to get this issue sorted :-)

So heres the background. '90 toyota cressida. Ive converted the engine to 1UZFE. Initially I had wired in the factory 1UZ Ecu using the cars original wiring and relays. Daily Driven for ~2 years with no issues. 1 year ago Purchased a Link G4+ Thunder(new). Wired it in to my existing wiring loom - kept the MREL power circuit and existing EFI Main & Circuit Opening relays from the Cressida. Since then Ive been chasing this annoying intermittent issue where the ECU would reset momentarily every so often. Naturally I thought It must be a wiring issue, bad crimp, bad earth etc. Ive been over it that many times. Now I've hardwired the ECU directly to the battery - The dedicated IGNITION input and the +14v inputs go DIRECTLY to the battery positive, and the ecu still experiences a power glitch - The engine stalls and PCLink looses its connection (which interrupts datalogging). Why is this happening? Surely if the ecu is experiencing uninterrupted 12v, PCLink should never lose connection, and the ECU should never power down. I've sent the ecu back to Link for testing, they cant replicate the fault on the test bench. So where does that leave me? Unfortunately I dont have a spare link thunder which I can swap over to prove whether or not its the ecu or the field wiring. Im basically stuck with a $2500 paperweight at this point Attached is a log and config file. 5:09 you can see the engine is sitting there idling and then out of nowhere the engine stalls and PClink drops its connection, which then recovers and continues the datalog. Hope some expert can help, personally I'm convinced that the ecu is faulty but I'm not sure how to prove it one way or another without a second one to try. And a test bench cant always replicate a real world scenario.. thu died.llg 1uz map.pclr

Did you ever come to a conclusion with this? Im experiencing a similar issue with link thunder. Except the ignition switch signal intermittantly drops out when the ecu is at operating temperature, even when ignition is connected directly to the battery it still happens

Ok I've tuned the throttle PID from scratch, its much better but still not perfect. @Adamw You mentioned in another thread that you use the BA Falcon PID settings as a starting point for tuning of the Bosch E-Throttle bodies. Does link provide an official setting for a 74mm Bosch unit P/N 0 280 750 474 ? - They do for the G4X but thats obviously not suitable on a G4+

Ok I will have a look at the E throttle PID settings, just a note, its an early 1uz originally with cable throttle but I am using a bosch 74mm ethrottle and pedal Do the same settings from the table you posted apply?

Hey, hoping somebody can have a look at my log help me figure out whats going on. 1UZFE, more or less stock, Bosch 74mm E Throttle, Link Thunder, ID1050X injectors, COP ignition Engine runs beautifully in all other aspects except when it gets up to running temperature sometimes the idle becomes unstable. Ive attached a log with the idle control in open loop mode. Closed loop seems to make it worse and usually it stalls, Ignition idle control on/off doesnt seem to make much of a difference. The E-Throttle target remains steady at 2.7% however tp Main is oscillating. Idling from a cold start to running temp is very consistent and smooth... https://www.dropbox.com/sh/aggu1h67bjg694c/AAAkauKtr7Bx4LQon71IbcTwa?dl=0

This is interesting! Ive got the same issue, 1UZ non vvti, Link Thunder, dual Bosch 4.9 LSU (Using thunder onboard Lambda controllers) BRAND NEW ID1050X injectors - I thought the 30 year old stock injectors were to blame, put new ones in and the imbalance remained.. Bank 2 is always richer than bank one at idle, but for the most part balances out when airflow through the engine picks up. Now that I think about it, Its possibly got to do with the position of the throttle body on the non vvt 1uz being on the side of the plenum. Its odd though that Ian C is having a rich bank 1, where my bank 2 is rich

No need to strip the unused wiring from the loom. leave them there and just tuck them away, you may want to use them later on. You probably still want to run an IAT sensor even with the ITB's, just make a bracket and mount it close to one of the throttle inlets.