r33lew

Adam, I spent some time trying to work on a map that was initially sent to me buy my tuner, after many days of changing and tweaking to the advice of you guys, I decided to start over and create a simplified map, based on your 'base maps' with settings changed that I thought was necessary, I've not yet loaded the map in and attempted a start, as I'm trying to correct potential issues I'm finding in my logs such as the lambda errors and low battery voltage. I would be extremely grateful if you could take a look at the file and see if you think it would work.. I literally just want to do 2 or three heat cycles, before mapping. One main thing I changed is the fuelling is traditional, just thought it would keep things simple. I've taken the injector data from ASNU's website. this is a list I made for my tuner, I know its mostly unnecessary... · 2.6L stock stroke crank · ACL conrod and main shells · PEC conrods · Wossner 86.5mm pistons OE compression ratio (8.5:1) · HKS 1.2mm head gasket · Lightly ported head with stock valve train · Tomei Type B Poncams · HKS adjustable cam wheels · Walton 50mm WG V-Band manifold · Precision 6266 V-band · Stock Inlet manifold retaining IAC / AAC · 80mm intercooler pipework · Plazmaman 76mm intercooler · 3.5 inch turbo back exhaust system · Turbosmart 50mm Wastegate to “screamer” · Turbosmart Race Port blow off valve · Turbosmart fuel pressure regulator · TI Automotive “Veyron” style fuel pump · Stock fuel lines and filter from tank to rail · HKS 11mm fuel rail · ASNU 1050cc injectors · Link G4x ECU · PRP Crank + Cam Triggers · R35 Coil Conversion · 3 Port Boost solenoid ECU Inputs… · Link can lambda ran through CAN 1 port · Fuel Pressure (KA Sensor 0-10bar) – AN Volt 2 · Oil Pressure (Link Combined) - AN Volt 8 · Oil Temp (Link Combined) – Temp Sensor 3 · IAT Sensor (Haltech) – Temp Sensor 4 Honestly really would be grateful if you could take a look, this car is breaking me! Nissan Skyline R33 GTR - Base map.pclx

I've found after looking through all my logs, now I know how to see lambda faults, that I'm getting several lambda errors, 2, 16, 26, 34, 48. has anyone seen this before? checked all connections and they are fine. Using a CANJST Link cable, so is all plug and play.

I struggle to believe that the idle settings are my issue, As soon as I touch the throttle even slightly, the engine dies. Surely this would eliminate anything the idle controls would have control over (air) being the issue. Now I'm not saying these settings wont need adjusting to aid idle, but I feel as if I was to chase a good idle with settings I would only be, if I could, covering up other issue. As always, I could be wrong...

I'm getting low battery voltage read out, (11.9v) and would like to know where my ecu gets the reading from?

thanks for your reply, all connections are checked on the CAN lambda, so im thinking maybe a bad sensor / module. ill attach my base map that i was using at the time, all the idle settings were left as they are in provided start up file for my car (R33 GTR) R33 GTR - 30-12.pclx

I've noticed whilst analysing my log file as my car wont start properly / idle / rev up, that my Lambda AFR is reading 0.00 all the time. ill attach a log file of my car barely ticking :'( I've noticed the battery voltage is low, but could this be due to it idling so low? my map is running closed loop lambda, could this incorrect reading be causing it not to run? PC Datalog - nrl pm.llgx

Interesting, i did think when i first primed it, that it would hold pressure but, it only did whilst the pump was on. Ive tried it on a map referenced setting, and it was still the same, although this was a setting changed after many attempted starts as FP sensor.. maybe i could try clean the plugs and start from MAP referenced... can i ask what the benefits of FP sensor would be over MAP? The reason i say flooding, is because... If i clrean the plugs and bores, fire it up, it will burst into life, then cut out, and the the nect start up i try isnt as good, and they get worse and worse, i then switch the injectors off, turn it over whilst it pops and bangs and burns any unburnt fuel... once this stops, i swith injectors back on, and it fires good again for the first couple... so it feels to me like its too much fuel.

An ignition lead betweem my plug and coil Its fp sensor map based as i have a fuel pressure sensor in my rail. And my offset ended up at -62 degrees once i moved the pickup It doesnt run, it just starts, very very breifly now. I got advised i can not set the sensor over the top of the pickup at tdc (-2°) and that helped fire it up

Also i tried to double my fuel table and it makes the symptoms of suspected flooding worse.

My fuel pressure drops off when my fuel pump isnt running, so raises to 45psi when i key on, and fuel pump primes, then drops off until i crank, does this sound normal?

R33GTR NEW.pclx

So i have my car to the point it actually starts now, but dies straight away, i will attach a log of it doing so... its 5 degrees here and getting colder.. my main question is, do the cold start enrichment tables completely over ride the main table? the car bursts into life like its going to run just fine then dies.. newest start up.llgx

i have posted a log of it trying to start above, will it not allow you to open this? ive just thought i havent done a trigger scope with it at this point (actually trying to start) should each trigger pulse be this irratic? TriggerScopeLog.llgx

ducie, at the effected Voltage and pressure its exact to ASNU data sheet for these injectors

my timing is bang on, checked multiple times. the injector dead times were set by my tuner as a start up map, although they compare the same as a stock base map. would these need changing for bigger injectors? and would it prevent them from running?

yep, figured out the test procedure now, I've got 12v+ switch to the injectors, there all on the correct cylinder, same as spark plugs / coils all good spark and on the correct cylinder

Adam, I've just been tracing back steps of everything I've done, now, injectors.. I've checked I have an ignition 12v+ on one pin on every injector. now the other pin, i take it this is a switched earth from the ECU, will this vary in resistance? I've not ran a test on an injector using pcLink before so i could be doing it completely wrong, but if I activate inject 1 test, across the 2 pins I'm only getting 2.2v could you please advise / correct my testing methods?

Tried that adam, still no good, if anything it was worse.

I'm sure, I set #1 cylinder to TDC compression and set the sensor as close to the trigger as I could, it is now set at full adjustment but keeps it simple for now. is this log good enough? 2 start attempts PC Datalog - new.llgx

i will attach my current tune, the only this that might have changed back is the main fuel table, i have also tried (*2) on it all. forgive me as im new to this but im not 100% on how to do a log, do i just hit record and crank it? R33GTR NEW.pclx

UPDATE. so the car will not start or idle but will definitely fire to the point you would usually let go of the key. Although after doing that a couple of times it then doesn't... Until I unplug my injectors and crank it, to which it bangs for a while whilst it burns any un-burnt fuel.. Then I can plug my injectors back in and it will try to fire a couple of times again.. it seems to me as though it is getting too much fuel or not enough spark. I'm sure there is something more complicated but on the surface that's what it seems like. One thing I have thought of after reading what you posted Adam, is I have T'd of my map hose to my factory fitted boost gauge solenoid. is this bad? I feel so CLOSEE, couldn't of got this far without the help on this forum, I will definitely continue to contribute where possible as I learn.

Thank you, i tried x2 on everything as adam suggested

So, ive managed to calibrate the sensor with it being set to a 4 bar sensor as it was on 7.. sensor now calibrated and im not getting a map limit activated message now... Each time i try to start the car, it fires as though its going to start up, but doesnt.. i flip the trigger offset 360 and it doesnt even try..

Forgive me for my stupidity, but i thought that would be an option i select during calibration, is this changed in the an1 menu? Ill take a look noe. Also, would you be able to tell if my ecu is 4 or 7 bar from serial number? My ecu is tucked away now.

Hi adam, tried everything you said except the map calibration, im getting the current map <5kpa or>, ill attach a picture , any idea how i can get around this?