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r33lew

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Posts posted by r33lew

  1. Adam, I spent some time trying to work on a map that was initially sent to me buy my tuner, after many days of changing and tweaking to the advice of you guys, I decided to start over and create a simplified map, based on your 'base maps' with settings changed that I thought was necessary, I've not yet loaded the map in and attempted a start, as I'm trying to correct potential issues I'm finding in my logs such as the lambda errors and low battery voltage.

     

    I would be extremely grateful if you could take a look at the file and see if you think it would work.. I literally just want to do 2 or three heat cycles, before mapping. One main thing I changed is the fuelling is traditional, just thought it would keep things simple. I've taken the injector data from ASNU's website.

     

    this is a list I made for my tuner, I know its mostly unnecessary...

    ·         2.6L stock stroke crank

    ·         ACL conrod and main shells

    ·         PEC conrods

    ·         Wossner 86.5mm pistons OE compression ratio (8.5:1)

    ·         HKS 1.2mm head gasket

    ·         Lightly ported head with stock valve train

    ·         Tomei Type B Poncams

    ·         HKS adjustable cam wheels

    ·         Walton 50mm WG V-Band manifold

    ·         Precision 6266 V-band

    ·         Stock Inlet manifold retaining IAC / AAC

    ·         80mm intercooler pipework

    ·         Plazmaman 76mm intercooler

    ·         3.5 inch turbo back exhaust system

    ·         Turbosmart 50mm Wastegate to “screamer”

    ·         Turbosmart Race Port blow off valve

    ·         Turbosmart fuel pressure regulator

    ·         TI Automotive “Veyron” style fuel pump

    ·         Stock fuel lines and filter from tank to rail

    ·         HKS 11mm fuel rail

    ·         ASNU 1050cc injectors

    ·         Link G4x ECU

    ·         PRP Crank + Cam Triggers

    ·         R35 Coil Conversion

    ·         3 Port Boost solenoid

     

    ECU Inputs…

    ·         Link can lambda ran through CAN 1 port

    ·         Fuel Pressure (KA Sensor 0-10bar) – AN Volt 2

    ·         Oil Pressure (Link Combined) - AN Volt 8

    ·         Oil Temp (Link Combined) – Temp Sensor 3

    ·         IAT Sensor (Haltech) – Temp Sensor 4

     

     

    Honestly really would be grateful if you could take a look, this car is breaking me!

    Nissan Skyline R33 GTR - Base map.pclx

  2. 22 hours ago, essb00 said:

    A few observations about your log.
    1. Your base idle position seem to low to reach target idle - and engine stalls once idle startup offset begins to decay
    2. Your CAN Lambda is having error 34 at 0:13. Check the connection of your LSU4.9 sensor to CAN lambda.

    The following are really not yet relevant but will later on affect how the engine runs:
    1. CLL ECT lockout is too low. Put 70°С to 75°C --- if this is too low, CLL would conflict with warmup enrichments.
    2. CLL Startup timer too low. Put 30s. --- CAN Lambda need time to heat up and stabilize.
     

    I've found after looking through all my logs, now I know how to see lambda faults, that I'm getting several lambda errors, 2, 16, 26, 34, 48.

    has anyone seen this before? checked all connections and they are fine. Using a CANJST Link cable, so is all plug and play.

  3. I struggle to believe that the idle settings are my issue,

    As soon as I touch the throttle even slightly, the engine dies.

    Surely this would eliminate anything the idle controls would have control over (air) being the issue.

    Now I'm not saying these settings wont need adjusting to aid idle, but I feel as if I was to chase a good idle with settings I would only be, if I could, covering up other issue.

    As always, I could be wrong...

     

  4. 16 hours ago, essb00 said:

    A few observations about your log.
    1. Your base idle position seem to low to reach target idle - and engine stalls once idle startup offset begins to decay
    2. Your CAN Lambda is having error 34 at 0:13. Check the connection of your LSU4.9 sensor to CAN lambda.

    The following are really not yet relevant but will later on affect how the engine runs:
    1. CLL ECT lockout is too low. Put 70°С to 75°C --- if this is too low, CLL would conflict with warmup enrichments.
    2. CLL Startup timer too low. Put 30s. --- CAN Lambda need time to heat up and stabilize.
     

    thanks for your reply, all connections are checked on the CAN lambda, so im thinking maybe a bad sensor / module.

    ill attach my base map that i was using at the time, all the idle settings were left as they are in provided start up file for my car (R33 GTR)

    R33 GTR - 30-12.pclx

  5. I've noticed whilst analysing my log file as my car wont start properly / idle / rev up, that my Lambda AFR is reading 0.00 all the time.

    ill attach a log file of my car barely ticking :'(

    I've noticed the battery voltage is low, but could this be due to it idling so low?

    my map is running closed loop lambda, could this incorrect reading be causing it not to run?

     

    PC Datalog - nrl pm.llgx

  6. 39 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    Not really, most pumps have a check valve so pressure remains after the pump shuts off.  

     

    What makes you think it is flooding?  Are the plugs wet?  

    Can you temporarily set fuel system type to "MAP Referenced" so that you dont get the big increase in inj PW when the rail pressure is low as a test.

    Interesting, i did think when i first primed it, that it would hold pressure but, it only did whilst the pump was on. 

     

    Ive tried it on a map referenced setting, and it was still the same, although this was a setting changed after many attempted starts as FP sensor.. maybe i could try clean the plugs and start from MAP referenced... can i ask what the benefits of FP sensor would be over MAP?

     

    The reason i say flooding, is because...

    If i clrean the plugs and bores, fire it up, it will burst into life, then cut out, and the the nect start up i try isnt as good, and they get worse and worse, i then switch the injectors off, turn it over whilst it pops and bangs and burns any unburnt fuel... once this stops, i swith injectors back on, and it fires good again for the first couple... so it feels to me like its too much fuel.

  7. On 12/22/2021 at 8:25 PM, Vaughan said:

    When you calibrate your trigger offset are you using the loop at the back of the head or an ignition lead between cyl 1 coil and spark plug for the timing light signal?

    An ignition lead betweem my plug and coil

    On 12/22/2021 at 1:45 PM, AbbeyMS said:

    Lewis,

     

    I noticed this last weekend, I presume you have a fuel pressure regulator fitted and set to 3bar

     

    image.png.6f598d0a101996fcc26a4e203412b9ab.png

     

    Needs to be set as a map based fuel system.

    Also last G4X with Full PRP kit the trigger offset was 100

     

    image.thumb.png.dacf3d147038586ebcd16a331e895bc0.png

     

     

    Its fp sensor map based as i have a fuel pressure sensor in my rail.

    And my offset ended up at -62 degrees once i moved the pickup

    On 12/24/2021 at 2:41 AM, Ducie54 said:

    So what was the solution to get it running?

    It doesnt run, it just starts, very very breifly now. I got advised i can not set the sensor over the top of the pickup at tdc (-2°) and that helped fire it up

  8. On 12/23/2021 at 11:36 PM, Adamw said:

    Double the values in your fuel table as a start, as we mentioned earlier the fuel table you have is not suitable for modelled mode.  

    Also something a bit odd with your fuel pressure, it is sitting at zero until you start cranking so you wont get any pre-crank prime and crank enrichment will be effected.

    Also  i tried to double my fuel table and it makes the symptoms of suspected flooding worse.

  9. 11 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Double the values in your fuel table as a start, as we mentioned earlier the fuel table you have is not suitable for modelled mode.  

    Also something a bit odd with your fuel pressure, it is sitting at zero until you start cranking so you wont get any pre-crank prime and crank enrichment will be effected.

    My fuel pressure drops off when my fuel pump isnt running, so raises to 45psi when i key on, and fuel pump primes, then drops off until i crank, does this sound normal? 

  10. 10 minutes ago, Ducie54 said:

    If you run cylinder one test. Check cylinder 1 injector is buzzing. Remove plug and it should stop. Test all like this.

    Just make sure cylinders are wired in sequence and NOT in firing order. 

    1 to 1

    2 to 2

    3 to 3 and so on.

     

    If u haven't checked ignition I would recommend u do the same. I use a spare spark plug and ground out on the rocker cover. 

    yep, figured out the test procedure now, I've got 12v+ switch to the injectors, there all on the correct cylinder, same as spark plugs / coils all good spark and on the correct cylinder

  11. Adam, I've just been tracing back steps of everything I've done, now, injectors.. I've checked I have an ignition 12v+ on one pin on every injector.

    now the other pin, i take it this is a switched earth from the ECU, will this vary in resistance?

    I've not ran a test on an injector using pcLink before so i could be doing it completely wrong, but if I activate inject 1 test, across the 2 pins I'm only getting 2.2v

    could you please advise / correct my testing methods?

  12. 27 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    Fix the fuel table as I mentioned earlier.  For logging, hit F8 to start recording, do a start attempt, hit F8 again to stop recoding, then go to >logging>save Log file as, then save it somewhere easy to find.  

    How sure are you about the ignition timing?  Your offset of -2 is unusual for a PRP trigger kit.  The last one I done the offset was 300.

    I'm sure, I set #1 cylinder to TDC compression and set the sensor as close to the trigger as I could, it is now set at full adjustment but keeps it simple for now.

    is this log good enough? 2 start attempts

    PC Datalog - new.llgx

  13. UPDATE.

    so the car will not start or idle but will definitely fire to the point you would usually let go of the key.

    Although after doing that a couple of times it then doesn't...

    Until I unplug my injectors and crank it, to which it bangs for a while whilst it burns any un-burnt fuel..

    Then I can plug my injectors back in and it will try to fire a couple of times again..

     

    it seems to me as though it is getting too much fuel or not enough spark. I'm sure there is something more complicated but on the surface that's what it seems like.

    One thing I have thought of after reading what you posted Adam, is I have T'd of my map hose to my factory fitted boost gauge solenoid. is this bad?

    I feel so CLOSEE, couldn't of got this far without the help on this forum, I will definitely continue to contribute where possible as I learn.

  14. Forgive me for my stupidity, but i thought that would be an option i select during calibration, is this changed in the an1 menu? Ill take a look noe.

    Just now, r33lew said:

    Forgive me for my stupidity, but i thought that would be an option i select during calibration, is this changed in the an1 menu? Ill take a look noe.

    Also, would you be able to tell if my ecu is 4 or 7 bar from serial number? My ecu is tucked away now.

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