GDII

One last question. Do I provide 12V to the switch to be grounded through the ECU DI pin or should I be grounding the switch and activating the Pull-Up resistor as per the example in the help menu for Pull-Up Resistors? Or can I do it either way? The way the key is setup, this would provide 12V to the ECU so I would assume I have to match this with the Start/Stop button due to them both being wired to the same DI pin and therefore not activate the Pull-Up resistor. I feel I have answered my own question. At this point in time the ECU is connected to a power supply and the PC and not the engine/car so I can't test it, I haven't even done the wiring harness yet but I have everything mapped out.

Thanks for confirming. I understood that DI 4 was either a DI or a Knock input so it was assigned as KNK for the design.

Does the Monsoon X support a knock sensor directly wired into it? I note that DI 4 can be used for knock or a DI but do you need an external module to allow it to work or is it on board? The LINK website states that the Storm X has on board knock control being the advantage over the Atom X and Monsoon X. If the Monsoon X doesn't have on board and requires an amplifier, what product would be required to wire into the ECU and knock sensor? I note the Knock Block is a stand alone tuning tool that does not interface with the ECU at all. Advanced features not found on the smaller Link ECUs (AtomX and MonsoonX): Onboard Knock Control – support for two knock sensors wired directly to the ECU. No external amplifier required. EDIT: It seems this post here confirms that from board revision 3.0 it has knock control built in. The ECU we are using for the project is 3.1.

Yes a second relay would be an option but I have managed to modify the fuse box easily without cutting anything to make this happen. Thanks for your help on this. I'm new to ECUs and DI and Aux things but I now have a better understanding of it. If I go back and look at how the GEN4 3SGTE from the Caldina is setup with 12v controls for valves I see the same pattern. Wiring I mostly get but how ECUs operate is a different thing.

ECU is a Monsoon X. Fuse and Relay box is the MaxxECU one. Planning to use Aux 6 for the relay coil. DI 3 for the start/stop button/key input. Just doing some research as I type this post and looking at how the other relays operate based on the LINK Power Supplies diagram and the way the fuse and relay box is wired and I now understand that none of the relays are supplied 12V to the coil from the ECU, they are all grounded through the ECU. The Starter and ECU/Main Relay are grounded to the chassis however. I have spoken with the owner and we have decided that it is better if we reduce the complexity of the system and do the following. As per the first line, use DI 3 for the start/stop button input and wire 12V from the ignition switch to the button. Also wire the STA position from the key to the same DI 3 input. Then wire 12V to the starter relay coil pin 86 after the ECU/Main relay so it only gets power with ignition ON Use Aux 6 to ground the starter relay coil pin 85 and program the ECU to use Example 1 or similar in Simons post above.

The key currently switches the relay coil to drive the starter solenoid. I was going to use 1 relay for both key and ECU and use both to power the coil of that relay. Based on the diagram I should be using 2 relays instead of trying to use a diode to split the circuits? I still think a correctly specified diode would work here. It's a brand new engine harness and fuse/relay box so I have no issues with being able to install the diode inline with the ECU output. Although I am expecting the ECU to output 12v to switch the relay if I am correct.

I'd like to wire in the Start/Stop button and use the system described above. That all makes sense with wiring in the button from a switched ignition source, then to an ECU DI and then connect the starter relay to an ECU Aux Output. However I'd also like to keep the key system active as per the OEM setup where the key is turned to the STA position and provides 12V to the starter relay. However to achieve this it would be apparent I need to connect the key STA wire to the same wire the ECU Aux Output is connected to. This would make it so the ECU could see 12V to the Aux Output which I assume is bad. Would adding in a diode to the Aux Output wire stop the ECU getting back fed 12V into an output?

I've seen it on the early 3SGEs and 3SGTEs but noted it's not on a Blacktop 4AGE. 80s tech and the GEN4 being released in 97 it's still mid 90s tech. I think the GEN5 3SGTE has it too which is a 2002 release. Ok, sounds like I can remove that valve and just run the vacuum hose direct from the manifold to the FPR. Simplified. Thank you.

Hi, I'm doing some research for a future project on a Toyota GEN4 3SGTE using a StormX ECU. The factory ECU uses a VSV to increase fuel pressure for hot starting to overcome vapour lock so I have come to believe. I know others engines do not have this valve but it seems like it was required to make things work a bit better in the OEM sense of things. When the valve is open it references atmospheric pressure to the fuel pressure regulator but when it is closed it references manifold pressure so also helps increase pressure under boost. Is this valve needed when going to an aftermarket ECU? It's a simple 12V switched valve that I believe only switches during start up when the engine is hot. So I guess you could set it so it opens up to atmosphere when starting (with a starter signal connected to the ECU) and also tell it to operate only when the engine coolant is above a certain temperature. I'm new to tuning and wiring in LINK ECUs so hopefully it's not a crazy question. Thanks Phill