I would say the most likely cause is the minimum voltage after the first tooth (green line) creeps up as RPM increases until it no longer crosses zero.
I like your idea with welding the extra metal into the gap, but I suspect due it being a separate piece of metal the ferromagnetism doesnt work like a single piece of iron. I have seen weld repaired teeth completely mess up the signal.
To bring the green line down lower in voltage what we need to do is reduce the maximum voltage as the first tooth is approaching the sensor (yellow line).
You could try increasing air gap which will lower all voltages. I have doubts whether this will help much.
You could try adding a resistor inline (series) with the trigger 1 wire. You will need to experiment with resistance value but I would say 3K-10K would be what I expect would help the most.
You could try adding a resistor across the sensor +/- wires to apply some load. Again resistance value will need some experimentation but it will be lower in this case, more like 300ohm at a guess.
Another option, you may be able to drill out the center of the OEM sensor and screw a hall sensor into it. Something like ZF GS100702 usually work ok with small 60-2 teeth (they need a stronger pull up resistor for high tooth count).
Hello everybody
It would be better to use a hall sensor rather than reluctance.
Attached is a photo of my c20xe engine.
Augusto
sorry for the text or in english
Hello everybody
It would be better to use a hall sensor rather than reluctance.
Attached is a photo of my c20xe engine.
Augusto
sorry for the text or in english
Hello everybody
It would be better to use a hall sensor rather than reluctance.
Attached is a photo of my c20xe engine.
Augusto.
sorry for the text or in english
Hello everybody
It would be better to use a hall sensor rather than reluctance.
Attached is a photo of my c20xe engine.
Augustus, sorry for the text or in english
