Island_Racer

Adam, Pulled the coils and cranked….perfect square wave. So i ran a new ground for the coils and everything is sorted now.

Adam, I tried saving a capture but when i open it it keeps opening differently form how the capture looks (maybe you can configure it) See attached the tune, the scope log at idle and scope log at 2K (tonight it didnt "lose signal" as much as last night but i added some other logs where i couldnt even pass 2K rpm due to the trig signal going away. I currently use the Racer X Fabrication crank and cam trigger system (36-1 wheel) with a cherry sensor and the airgap is 0.060" and for the cam, the single tooth and a cherry sensor on that as well. Because the scope looked different from the file when i open it please see screen shots for the scope itself: image 1: https://www.mediafire.com/view/bxh7jvn4rxfkora/trigger_log_1.jpg/file image 2: https://www.mediafire.com/view/qbzlsenan73gy8f/trigger_log_2.jpg/file My engine is a 3rd Gen 3Sgte head and a 5S block and the expected components for a fully built motor. trigger scope 1 (2K rpm).llgx trigger scope 1 (idle).llgx Current Map for Stefan.pclx TriggerScopeLog other 3.llgx TriggerScopeLog other 2.llgx TriggerScopeLog other 1.llgx

Can anyone look at these logs and explain to me why my trig 1 (crank) is doing what it is doing. Some background: - the wire is shielded 1/2 inch from both the ecu pin and the sensor. - the sensor is positioned in the dead center of the toothed wheel. - the trig 1 (crank) and trig 2 (cam) are both sharing the same sensor supply (5v) and sensor ground. cam sensor never loses signal...ever. log 1: https://www.mediafire.com/file/cybsg77svh90ps2/random_trigger_1_signal_loss_1.llgx/file log 2: https://www.mediafire.com/file/ytwuecaiof01tfp/random_trigger_1_signal_loss_2.llgx/file log 3: https://www.mediafire.com/file/lkhh3kud7vqjhia/random_trigger_1_signal_loss_3.llgx/file log 4: https://www.mediafire.com/file/6czhocp42m6nclw/random_trigger_1_signal_loss_4.llgx/file

You guys are on top of your game. Got this from the manufacturer and yall hit target 100%. I'll do this and follow up. much appreciated.

Which option do you use personally.

?? What sensor name do i use?

I wanna say at vacuum the voltage i saw was like 1.1 +/- 0.2 or something like that...honestly cant recall.....for sure after it started acting funny it was down below 0.05 and triggered the low error. i will get myself one of those omni supra 4 bar sensors then: 1. what do i put it as when i get it and need to calibrate? i dont see "supra 4 bar" as an option.

I used the oem wiring. I used my multi meter to verify which pin was VC (5V sensor source), PIM (sensor response) and E2 (sensor ground). i also made sure to change the sensor type in the an volt 3 to the link 4 bar then did a map sensor calobration. was i to use something else? I didnt log it….i got upset, changed back to my oem sensor and went for a drive to cool off my mood…lol

So, I purchased and installed a link 4bar map sensor to use in place of my oem st205 map sensor while en route to 35psi boost. Installed properly, set the an volt 3 to use link 4 bar instead of st205, did a calibration. car runs fine, sounds just as healthy as with the oem map sensor…..after the car warms up though…lets say 10-15 minutes….the car starts to idle erratically and my afr’s are up to like 17-18 so naturally i shut off the car and get my computer. Open the link app (link g4x ecu btw) and the error code for error low range on map sensor….so map sensor not working properly…i sit for 10 or so minutes thinking why and how and then clear the code and start the car again just because. car comes back up like nothing was wrong….but another 10 or so minutes again…down and same error code flashes. this time i touch the map sensor and realize it is “hot” where can this get sent to for assessment and replacement?? Is that a thing? Are there warranties on these things? ps. I put back on my oem map sensor (set back the an volt 3 back to oem sensor) and went driving that night….im stuck at 25psi until i figure out why this new map sensor letting me down. Really want to get up to 35psi.

Thanks for that info….that was the picture i had shown…that was also what made me curious. The oem manual said the pin going from AMP to ECU is the Link G4X’s Auxilary 8 pin and i was wondering if it is going “to” ecu shudnt that be an input….. and then vice versa, for the oem manual saying the the pin going from ECU to AMP is Link G4X’s Digital Input 2 pin and i was wondering if it is coming “from” ecu shudnt that be an output. hence me asking it maybe the pins were accidentally swapped…remember the ST205 3rd gen is still different from the SW20 3rd gen… based on what uve said, i will try to swap those two wires and see if the system operates how it should.

Vaughan, I see your point and thanks for that….the ST205 also has the dual pressure coming into the amplifier and the line from the amplifier going out to the magnetic relay…. so essentially, what i did with my button, input and output assignments is ok…the amplifier will disengage the clutch for pressure safety…. But then that leaves me with the one remaining question….what disengages the clutch when im making a hard pull?

Also….on the link g4x the pin labeled DI2 (ac request) when compared to the st205 manuals corresponds to a wire going from the ecu TO the amplifier whereas the pin labeled Aux 6 (ac output) when compared to the st205 manuals corresponds to a wire going FROM the amplifier to the ecu….is it possible that Link accidentally swapped the two pins when they fabricated their version of the ecu??? so where it says “from ecu” wouldnt that be an output from ecu?? and where it says “to ecu” wouldnt that be an input to the ecu??

Lets revive this one last time. So i installed a simple push button on my center console and wired it to the DI2 pin on my link g4x (ac request pin). I also created a GP output and assigned it to activate the pin that is connected to my ac idle-up valve and is triggered by the DI2 pin (which is wired to the button)…..and i used two conditions…1st- the DI2 pin must be in active state (aka the button is pushed) 2nd- the TPS position is less than 50% (aka when i press beyond 50% throttle, the ac idle-up valve is deactivated) So when i push the button the ac idle-up activates and my car’s rpm rises….i then push the “on button” on my ac control and the ac starts, clutch engages and the rpm drops back to “normal” levels…and the car cools nicely... now i personally have no issue with now having to push two buttons to get my car’s ac going….the car cools well, the car behaves great….i just need to know and confirm one thing…. what tells the clutch when to disengage? I kno and see the pressure switch on the ac pipline…but does that trigger the ac amplifier and the amplifier disengages the clutch? Or is the ecu supposed to get the pressure reading and then it tells the amplifier to disengage the clutch?? i want to ensure i dont damage the compressor because it doesnt disengage when/if the pressure gets too high…so i need to know if there is one more step i need to take. it would help to say that i tried using the ac clutch control in the chassis and body section of the link g4x but it doesnt disengage the clutch…doesnt do anything from what i observed….i used “basic” mode, used the DI2 pin as ac request (push button), set the aux6 pin (ac output) as the output…and when i push the button. The ac request lights up and says active, the ac idle-up valve output lights up and says active the valve activates, the ac clutch control (aux 6) lights up and says active…i noted that the setting by default had disengage clutch at 90% tps….i changed that to 1% to test if the clutch disengaged when i held my pedal higher than 1% tps…and when i hold above the 1% the light (aux 6) turns off and says inactive, but the clutch did not disengage…so i dont believe that it controls it…the clutch only disengages when i turn off the ac controls...i saw one person above say switch the driver from low to high and that will do it….but i need confirmation that that is in fact exactly what i am missing….i wouldnt want to try that randomly without some kind of verification by a pro….

When the button is pushed in the car the compressor activates and the air starts to cool….so “it works”, its just that the idle up (that i can usually hear open up) never opens up. i will raise the ie map lockout to ur recommended value. i have an aem uego installed, can use either the serial pin or the 0-5v analog pin to connect to the g4x? Or no?

Hey, I finally got around to looking at this car again. See attached the pc log for the session with the ac being tuned on and off. Also see the current setup of the parameters. Sorry for being so tardy with responses. I didn't do the setup myself so possibly you could walk me through the idle settings to initially use. ac log file.llgx current setup.pclx

I have a link g4x running, car is running fine. Just that the ac when turned on “works”, cools and everything, however the ac idle-up does not activate. I simply have to suffer a crappy idle (when at idle). any idea why the ac idle-up doesnt activate when the ac is turned on?

Adam, see tune attached. regarding the log, i tried but i dont know why so many variables say no data.... ECU Log 2022-09-27 6;30;45 pm.llgx Stefan ST205 as of 27.09.2022.pclx

When i turn on my ac, the car cools however the ac-idle up does not activate. Hence my car idle drops. everything is wired as it should but on the software when the button is pushed, I do not see the ac request light up. I suspect it is a setting I have failed to address. Secondly, when the ac is not on, the car pulls hard through full boost (currently on 14 psi), but when the ac is switched on (ac-idle up not triggered) when i try a hard pull in 1st and/or 2nd the car will mis-fire several times and buck wildly (during misfire) If i switch the ac off again, everything goes back to normal, 1st, 2nd, all gears can go full boost. any recommendations on what could be wrong?

Adam, did that and the counter doesnt go past 2000 rpm when driving. I did the tacho wire to pin 12 and reassigned it as tacho…what could be missing?

I soldered in the new 1K ohm resistor in place. Do I now simply run the wire from the igniter connector to my link g4x in an auxilary pin and assign it to tacho? Or is there more to set up to get this to work?

so....i tucked away the groundline that belonged on the intake manifold and forgot about it when re-installing everything. SO yes, the car fired up right away. Thank for the assistance. This was a solid back and forth.

Adam, So is it that i should just run a new groundline for (pin1) E01, (pin 14)E02 and (pin26) E1? Should i run them to different points or can i connect all three and run them to a clean new spot? or better, where does the other end of E01 tend to end at? i could rerun that exact line if necessary. any thoughts on the tune file i attached?

Adam, 1. pin 1 (E01) to the same ground as earlier - resistance key off - 3.6 ohms - resistance key on - OL -voltage key off - 0 V -voltage key on - 1.5V 2. I also did the following pins just because i was there -pin 14 (E02) -pin 26 (E1) - pin 46 (E2) They all came to the same readings as the pin 1 (E01) I also checked the: - pin 61 (battery) and got voltage of 12.4V regardless of key position - pin 76 (b+) and got voltage 12.1V when key on and 0.1V when key off I've added my tune file for your viewing. any thoughts? 5S-GTE COP issues tune.pclx

Adam, when i disconnect the ign 1 and ign 2 wires (igt and pin above igt) the humming/sparking on the coilpack stop. I also read the voltage from each pin to ground. When the car is turned to key on and i get the loud humming/sparkin on the coilpack, the voltage from ign 1 and ign 2 are 1.9V Other times when the key is turned on and the humming/sparking is low the voltage from ign 1 and ign 2 are 1.3V What voltage should be there when the car is just sitting there key on and not cranking or anything?

For the coils (looking at the coil from left to right) 1. Ground 2. Trigger 3. Feedback 4. Power as for the sensor, racer x fab sent me this as the reference for it. Ur right the cherrys are usually black brown and blue i wonder if the rapid sparking/coilpack hum is because of the software setup.