Ben.C

Hi, I'm having a problem with abnormally high VE values. I have only started and idled the car but I already know something isn't quite right. As you can see in the map, the VE at idle is around 85% (THAT IS THE ONLY 'TUNED' AREA) Set up: Link G4X Monsoon Honda B18C, 12:1 comp, big-ish cams, N/A Intake manifold (no ITB's) CRANK SENSOR ONLY 4 injectors (one per runner) wired to the 4 injector outputs Stock K-series injectors from a K24A, injector data taken from the Link G4X K-series plug-in map Fuel pressure sensor 94 octane pump gas (up to 10%E) Link CAN Lambda The car fires up and idles great, given the obviously wrong VE values. No miss fires or rough running.... I'm not sure if my fuel settings are correct or not? see attached map. Also see attached log of it idling. Silver Car 2.4.pclx PC Datalog - 2024-04-21 3;16;23 pm.llgx

Wow thanks so much for the reply. I'll definitely give this a try.

Hi, I was on the dyno last night and had a problem with my Vtec engaging and disengaging very quickly, it sounded like a limiter. I'm 95% sure this is hysteresis. I'm running an Atom and it's fully populated hence why I'm using an unused IGN channel as the Vtec output. When I tuned the last car I built, I had a Fury that had a setting called switch off timer. I had this set to just 0.2s and that was enough to have vtec work properly. Is there a way to use a timer, like timer 1 as this switch off delay? I'm only able to have 2 switch conditions for this channel, so it would be condition 1, RPM>5500. Condition 2, timer 1. Switch condition 1 OR 2. My thoughts are to set timer 1 trigger activation as AUX IGN#3 (my vtec output). When I hit 5500rpm, AUX IGN#3 engages, the timer starts and stays on for around 0.5s, then turns off. This way I'll have a 0.5s minimum Vtec engagement window which should get me out of the hysteresis. Now the critical part is the timer must stay on if AUX IGN#3 tries to turn off based on RPM alone. Example: Engine speed hits 5500RPM Condition 1 is active (RPM >) and triggers timer 1 for condition 2 active Vtec engages, timer starts Engine speed has a bit of hysteresis condition 1 is no longer active Condition 2 stays active for 0.5s, engine speed leaves the hysteresis range, condition 1 is active again Condition 2 no longer active after 0.5s Can someone please let me know if this is possible, and if so, how to set the timer up?

Sorry, forgot to attach the log fileo2 Errors 2023-04-27 5;28;39 pm.llg

Hi Adam, Sorry, I should have been more specific, but you answered my question anyway. My question was, with the ignition on, why was I not getting anything from the CAN-Lambda; temp, ect? As you said, it only works once the engine is running which was correct. I fired the car up, it started heating, then I got an error 16, heated too long. This then switched to error 33 open circuit APE-IPE, then back to error 16, back and forth for a bit, then error code 34 open circuit RE/IPE. I found this thread: I seem to be having the same issue as the OP. I also have a very early version of the CAN-Lambda like the OP. Should I try the 22uF capacitor, or is there another fix? That thread is from 2017....

I tried it with booth the resistor in the display and without. With the resistor installed I'm getting a "Stuff Error". The thing I'm confused with is the "Disabled/Diagnostics" and the sensor not heating or really doing anything. The length of the dash run (to the display) is much longer than the run to the CAN-Lambda so I agree it should have the resistor in place to 'terminate' the trunk.

Thanks Adam! I got the car too fire up. It ripped to life and held a perfect idle. I had the signal and sensor ground backwards for the map sensor (I fallowed Haltec's info page for the sensor and they have it backwards). Fuel pump speed control is up and running perfect now that my SSR arrived. The wheel speed is also correct, the cars on jack stands with no wheels or brakes so the bit of drag through the trans makes sense. I have a new issue I'm working through but am all out of ideas. I have a Link CAN-Lambda sensor and also a GaugeArt panel mount display. I've fallowed the setup procedure for both the CAN-Lambda and the display but can't get them to work. For the CAN-Lambda, everything seems 'fine'. I don't have any errors on the CAN bus, I have 12V at the plug, ground is solid, ~3.5v on CAN high, and ~1.9v on CAN low. I can find the CAN Lambda gauge under ECU Controls>CAN Setup>CAN Devices. I can't find the gauge there however. The runtime values for Lambda 1 has the status as: Disabled/Diagnostics? The gauge is channel 1 Transmit generic dash, and the CAN Lambda is Channel 2: Link CAN-Lambda. Attached below are some screen caps, diagram, log file, and tune file. Silver Car V0.2.pclr CAN issues 2023-04-25 9;25;02 am.llg

bump. I still can't post to my own thread, keeps saying I'm blocked.

I also can't post at all, even with no attachments

Hi, I'm having a hard time getting my car to start. It's a Honda Civic with a B18C running on a Link Atom and K-series COP. I'm running the car in wasted spark and multi-port group injection. The ignition is wired as IGN output 1 to coil 1&4 and IGN output 2 to coil 2&3. Injection is wired as INJ output 1 to injector 1, INJ output 2 to injector 2, INJ output 3 to injector 3, INJ output 4 wired to injector 4. I can run both an injector test and an ignition test and both work as expected. For triggering, I'm running a 24-1 trigger wheel in place of the factory 12-0. I drew a 24-1 trigger wheel in Fusion360 making sure the outer diameter is the same as factory, tooth width is the same as factory, and thickness is also within a few tenths of a mm. see attached photos. I machined off the factory trigger wheel and pressed/welded the new wheel in place. I'm running the factory crank fluctuation sensor (OE replacement Hella unit) in the factory location. As you can see I'm getting a trigger signal, I'm getting engine speed, and no errors while cranking however I get an error right when I stop cranking and the voltage comes back up. I read a few posts on here about setting arming threshold however they require a trigger scope and my little Atom can't do that. So my questions are; do you think my trigger setup is ok? How would I set the arming threshold without a trigger scope and is that why I'm getting an error after cranking? Log file attached as well as my calibration file, it's not tuned yet...just trying to get it to start. Trigger Error.llg Silver Car V0.1.pclr

Ah perfect, Thanks for the help.

Ah yes, I'm an idiot. My math was way off. I'll do as recommended and use AUX outputs for the speedo and tacho, then use IGN3-4 for grounding a relay to keep it simple. The speedo was driven directly from the VSS in factory configuration. The VSS is 3 wire; 12v power, GND, and signal. The factory service manual says you should see 5v at the signal wire and at the cluster. I'll need to add a voltage regulator to regulate down the AUX 12V signal. The reason I don't want to run the speedo directly off the VSS is because I want the dash harness to remain untouched when I eventually switch to a K-series. I plan to change the ECU to an Extreme G4X and would like to just adjust the ECU settings depending on what K-series transmission I end up with (some use counter shaft speed, some use speed at the differential). Also, as dumb as this sounds...I want gauge sweeps at key on. Some people want crackle and bang tunes, I want gauge sweeps.

Hi, I'm finalizing my wiring and I want to be sure what I have planned will actually work. I'm running a B18C in a 6th gen Civic, it's a pure track car, ALL THE FACTORY WIRING IS GONE. I'm running K-series individual coils in wasted spark with a crank trigger only (24-1 tooth pattern). I want to use the 2 unused ignition outputs to drive the factory tacho and speedo. I've inserted both the internal cluster wiring diagram and the cluster specs. The tacho is 2:1 so at 9500rpm I'll need to pulse it at 18KHz. The speedo is pretty vague, not too sure, experimenting maybe required! I'm using a SSR to drive the fuel pump with variable speed with AUX 1 I'm using a relay to drive VTEC with AUX 2 I'm using a relay to drive the RAD fan with AUX 3 AUX 4 is currently unused but I would like to use this as a shift light DI 1 is vehicle speed in IGN 3 will drive the tacho (hopefully) IGN 4 will drive the speedo (hopefully) I'm totally open to changing the allocations, let me know if this won't work. Thanks in advance!

See below. This video is from the Link YouTube channel. At 2:15 he mentions that adding sensors is possible but doesn't go into great detail. Has anyone tried doing this yet?

Hi all, In short, can I use the analog inputs from the Aim/Link MXS Strada display as additional inputs to the ECU? Specifically, I want to add fuel pressure and fuel temperature through the dash to the ECU and have these used for functionality NOT just logging/display. The reason I want to use the dash to add additional sensors is because I'm using an Atom and am out of inputs/outputs. See below for my allocations. I should note that I'm using the Link CAN Lambda sensor so the CAN stream will have at least that running, as well as (hopefully) the dash. The Aim documentation says the inputs work at 1KHz which to me seems like plenty for fuel pressure and temp. The dash would kill a few birds with one stone. First, I can free up the outputs used to drive the factory speedo and tach (no more waste spark). Second, I can hopefully add the additional sensors which will help for Canadian fall lapping days (0*c in the AM and +25*c in the PM). Third, I won't need to mount my Aim Solo any longer. Fourth, get a FAR more comprehensive display to keep track of things.