k4nnon

@Adamw Thanks, That answered that portion of my question. I have a couple other questions as far as the ignition trim and torque reintroduction time. With the ignition trim, is this supposed to be a small amount of retard just to lower the engine tq? Or is this supposed to be aggressive, almost like an antilag ignition retard to help aid in keeping the turbo up to speed? When doing a WOT pull in my car ignition timing is around 5* right now. I have my main shift cut at 80% and my ignition trim is at -30* and torque reintroduction time is at 40ms. Does this sound appropriate? Or should I make a change to the ignition trim and reintroduction time? Thanks again for the help.

Hey all Link G4X PnP user here for my USDM evo 9. Questions regarding setting up the gear shift control in my car. My car is standard 5spd trans with synchros. On the newest firmware, Do I need to set up all of the "Dog Unload" stuff as well as the Main Shift stuff or will I just use the Main Shift settings being that I have a standard synchro transmission? And if I do need to set up the dog unload settings, how different are they going to be from my main shift settings? Or will they be similar? Trying to get the best shift I can. Thanks for any info.

Sounds like it’s set up properly, have you ever had the wastegate off? Is there any chance the fire ring is missing? Iv seen that happen quite often either by people having the gate off and losing or forgetting to put it back in, or if someone puts the car together poorly to sell and then the next owner just has no idea. Maybe just verify that the fire ring is there also.

What wastegate are you using? If it is a Tial type or a type that can have boost pressure supplied to both top and bottom of the gate,, make sure all unused ports are blocked or plugged. If its a MAC style solenoid it should b numbered 1, 2, 3, and usual simplistic setup is 3 to compressor, 2 to wastegate, and 1 is vented or recirculated. Also standard setup on the gate would be to use single port on the bottom and vent the cap. Never had an issue with this set upon evos or 4g63 engines at power levels stock to 700+. Hope that helps.

Hey all. Thanks for the replies and the info. I figured out how to read and write the factory ACD ecu with ecuflash. Decided to purchase an English Racing ACD tune rather than just play with the tuning myself. I figured this to be the best option because they have put in the track time needed to really make a great tuned ACD with the stock computer. HUGE improvement over stock I will say!

yes. say the engine is fully warmed up and 190 degrees F. or so. and in that cell the rpm is 5500. well if the coolant is 190 then it wont allow any more rpm then 5500. so just raise the rpm value to whatever you would like to run. this is a limiter so if you want to run 8k i would set the limiter at like 8600. this allows the full use of 8k but has the soft limiter and hard limiter soon after for the safety feature.

Your RPM Limit table is under the Engine Protection tab. You should be able to open up the table and adjust your rpm value at any specified coolant temp. As for degrees, I assume your talking about ignition? The ignition table is under the Ignition tab and you can adjust the table to fit your particular boost values. Not sure if any of that helps. The Link help section is also great for info as well. Best of luck.

It really depends on the sound you are trying to have. The sound of antilag is the loud pops and bangs while off throttle, Or this sound is similar to rolling antilag/launch control, or stationary launch control. The rotational idle is the aggressive choppy rally style idle you hear. So to answer your question, yes you can set up a rolling antilag on a button or a switch so that if you are in motion, you can hit the button and go full throttle, the rolling antilag will keep the car steady and build boost, it will make loud pops and bangs, as you let go of the button the car will launch into full boost. I feel like if you are looking for just a show pleaser, then your best bet is to probably set up an aggressive stationary launch control/2step. That way you dont need the car to be moving, you can just get in and put your foot to the floor. You can set this up to be very loud to your liking.

There is info on how to do this in the help section. Check it out, you should find the set up. Mind you, this only works if you have the ability to keep the throttle plate open a certain amount, either by adjustment screw/kicker, or an electric throttle body. Hop you find the other info you are looking for. There are some set ups where the iac valve is used to put extra air into the manifold, but some iacs dont allow enough air to be very aggressive sounding.

ALSO, another thing. When I open up G5 and check PcLink Version it says 7.2.3 But the latest download version on the site says 7.2.2 Is this correct or do I have something funky going on? Thanks again.

So is this something that I can change to ho it worked before? Im only trying to connect to one ecu at a time, my own lol. Being able to wifi connect to all ecus and having to select which one sounds like an added opportunity for something to go wrong in the case of someone selecting the wrong ecu or flashing the wrong file to a wrong vehicle. I just wanna be able to connect to my vehicle without the added steps as it was before... How do I do this? Or has that option been surpassed? lol. Thanks for the info guys!

Hey all I am on a PnP G4X for my Evo 9. On the latest PClink and firmware versions I believe. Before when I would either key on for auto connect, or either manually connect to ecu, the ecu would connect without any issues. Recently after installing the most recent versions of PClink and firmware it doesn’t connect, it asks for USB and serial number or something. Am I doing something wrong, or is there info I need to plug somewhere so that the ecu just connects without this extra step? Thanks for the info.

Hey thanks for the reply. Thats kinda what I was figuring in some sense. Maybe ill do some dyno testing with this and see if there is a readable difference in a 1st/2nd gear pull from 2000-5000rpms at a few throttle angles below 100% versus wide open and look at the differences. Would be interesting to know if there is a loss at 100% throttle. Thanks for the input!

Hey all, Link G4X PnP user here for USDM evo IX. I have some questions on low rpm wot tuning. I understand tuning and I have my car tuned making around 700 wheel with a garrett gt35r turbo. Turbo doesnt hit full spool untill about 5500rpms. Is there any specific way to tune the car for wot at lower rpms? or is it all the same? Example would be an autocross situation starting from a stopwithout the use of launch control or antilag, 100% throttle from the start at 2000rpms until the turbo kicks in. I guess what im trying to figure out is the difference between throttle opening at low rpms. Because if i go 100% throttle at 2k rpms the engine/car is not going faster than if i were to throttle it at say 30-50% throttle. This might just be the nature of the beast. I can kinda feel at what throttle position the car is actually trying to go faster or not but should I be trying to just feel for this spot or go 100% throttle. And is there any different way of tuning for this or is there a way to make the car a little more peppy down low or standard tuning. Let me know if anyone has any helpful information. Thanks.

Hey thanks. I will give that a try and see what info I get. Appreciate it.