Stranger24

thanks Adam

Makes sense, thanks Adam

Thanks Adam will try and post back

issue fixed, it was me not assignig the allocation tables. how does link know out of the two sensors on the block which one is for the first 3 cylinder and other is for the later cylinders? i unplugged one of the sensors and link still showed full reading from all cylinders. I guess it is from firing order which ECU knows what cylinder it is ? What is the downside of allocating two tables, one for 3 cylinders front and one for the ones at back. Currently I have one table per cylinder. If it is firing order then is it fair two say having two sensors just makes the detection easier as ecu doesn't know which sensor is closest to what cylinder

Hey guys I have tripple check and changed both knock sensors which are brand new ones ( one wire is sheiled ground) and one is signal. The link g4 plug in does not read anything from the knock sensors. Changed the tps lockout to 0 and tried all filters and still no reading. I unplugged the knock sensors, hoocked up aligator clip multimeter to it and tapped it witrh spanner and voltage does change. link e36 manual states it is on pin 69 and 70 and 71 is ground( see below). what I am i missing here? I tried with filter in 6ghz( where it should be) and all other narrow/wideband ranges and nothing https://linkecu.com/documentation/E36X.pdf see screenshot attached

Yeah but not in UK:)

Thanks Adam

Looking at realdash, it suggests g4x doesn’t work with realdash. I was looking to buy meatpi wifi and use it with wifi from what I see on realdash, it states serial output stream not support on g4x. Thoughts?

Trying to buy a meatpi and no stock:(

Is there a way to find dwell times online? My coils are BOSCH Ignition 0221504029 which is stuck e36

I sorted the cluster so thanks, would you use the offset or multiplier ? I used the offset. I have a question on speed sensor as cluster shows speed as 0. I logged all values related to speed and can see non of them are picking anything up. see my setup below. any thoughts you have?

Hey guys I love link and really happy with my mx5 I also went link. software is brilliant I need to understand something, when using mixture map . when setting active zone area to 90%, does that mean the value must have been inside the cell 90%? I read help file but still struggle to understand. I basically want to say only consider it if the value was 80% inside the cell . Re my filters, for Transient condition, i set tps to 5 unit a sec meaning if i am opening it quickly and likely to have accl table in then ignore it.Am i doing this right? also set MGP to 2 unit a sec again meaning if it is opening quickly / accl fuel coming in then ignore it. I basically want to do long runs and get very accurate data and appreciate recommendations on how to set filters. Regarding ICV, I have set mine to 3 wire solonoind( see my config ) below however it does not work. anyone has any experience on how this should be set?

Great thanks Re speed no speed is shown on cluster, needle stays on 0

My rpm is off by around 100 , how would one calibrate this and also no speed shown i appreciate any advice here

Great thanks what I meant was, how does ecu know voltage to afr, is it liner scale where every 0.5 is x lambda ? i guess I am trying to understand if one can get away with not having calc table. On my skyline I see the tuner at the time has used no calc table and rather value of 0.5 to 4.5v and let ecu workout afr baed on generic sensor . I will double check when on pc again re gauge, the issue is, I can't wire gauge to chassis and sensor those gauges use to ecu as there is a circuit inside the gauge which provides ground and power to gauges i have user this setup with 5 amp and car being running for 3-4 hours with no issues i guess I could get all chassis and sensors to chassis ground and only lambda gauge dedicated ground to ecu expansion loom? I tap into signal line of the gauges and read it by ecu so from what I understood, if you have chassis ground and ecu ground, you could first have unreliable reading due to offset and second this is not best practice as you can run some power from say starter motor through ecu if your gauge is grounded to chassis and ecu

There is a control box which has 4 connections. One goes out to gauge, one power in, one out to sensor and one output to ecu output to ecu has 3 wires, ground , wide band and narrow band gauge ground as well as output ground are on the ecu expansion loom . i have total of 7 gauges all powered from ecu ground but fed by power from battery direct and fused to 5 amp so it won’t fry ecu i used calibration table prosport provided and it was off little, i applied 0.9 correction to entire value ad now gauge and ecu reading match up to me this sounded like either calibration table is wrong which is setup using prosport table or the gauge had offset ground and i fixed it by applying 0.9 to calibration table across all values do you guys not do cal table and use value of 0.5 v on ecu? How does ecu know what volt means what afr? link below shows wiring and table see diagram below and tell me what you think of my setup. all the gauges are wide band are fed from ecu ground so this should avoid any issues right? I protected ecu by 5amp so not too much power is drawn from ecu to fry it

Would you use multimeter to test and worn this out??

How can one find out if he is having ground offset issues on analogue signal to ecu?

Thanks guyS what is diffrence between can lamda and just analog input lambda? can uses digital processing and less prune to errors on normal analog lambda? I guess I could get can lambda and can gauge so can see multiple output/sensor i was going to buy another aem analoug/ gauge style as on mx5 i am not pushing above 300 and i guess don’t want to learn can bus network( i know what it is) but learning curve … is it hard to setup? from I know lots of people do individual coil on plug for mazda. I need to check how my mazda is as of today( bought it and never checked under the bonnet!) i think it has one coil for two cylinders so 2x coil does mx5 ecu allow doing individual coil plugs? need to do more research here On my e36 I am monitoring fuel pressure and adjusting dead time on that. I guess that is what you referring to? re can lambda it can be link or any brand I guess right? Link can lambda currently out of my price range as also buying link knockblock. Is innovate any good? https://www.demon-tweeks.com/innovate-motorsports-lc02-digital-wideband-lambda-02-sensor-controller-2005080/?sku=INN3877&istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wlqtwtwim&istBid=t&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4-upq6SdgwMVPZNQBh3jtgQ_EAQYBiABEgLqcvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

bought mx5 link4 this morning , have 3 of them so part of link family I guess. I won't be tuning mx5 anytime soon but bought it . is base map any good? I guess I need afr at minimum. what works well with link? I have aem on skyline and prosport on e36 .

nb 2000 1.8 no vvt. I do agree link support and pretty much Adam replying to every question of mine is second to none. I really want link and prob get it than try Ecu or ME442 or other brand. I was just curious. I know link works, support is there and to me I guess rethinking this, I am happy to pay £1.4k as it is now than 1.2k . That is almost twice the price of many mx5 ecus but you get what you pay for I guess.

Thanks Adam my timing light is draper/ budget and I could see the timing mark move when I changed the offset by 1 number clearly but nothing at all with ignition delay I guess if set wrong , does it mean your table might be out a little? I know dwell time and trying to really understand where does ignition delay come in. Is that addition to dwell time? i will test it again and i reved all the way with a helper and not a single move if it is set too high say 150 what is downside or if set too low then what is the downside?

Maybe I am not sure. I do know a guy here which I bought bosch from and be said it is his time and research so he covers the part number i see few parts of the initial part number on the injector before they apply their logo i guess annoying and lesson learned to buy injector dynamic which comes with loads data or as in forum and buy the bosch once I know what part number it is i have used them hence don’t feel it is right to return else would have

Guys i love link and I have it on my skyline and e36 . I bought an mx5 and want to also change it to link plug in need some advice and whilst I understand this is a link forum, I hope it is ok to ask my question and mention other vendor. if not let me know and I will remove my post basically I am not great with wiring and hence avoided stand alone vs p&p i hat my 20 years old wiring on skyline and e36 so for mazda I am thinking i go standalone but then pain of all wiring and maybe try creating it or pay someone … at the end think it will not save me any cost . Not that cost matter significantly but it is a factor i think p&p is lovely as everything is wired in and as name suggest it is just to put it in the car and have a base map to start with. I have seen loads people looking at ecu master and i am not a mechanic rather hobbiest loving cars and learning efi and knowing link, I don’t want to learn ecu master or other brands Also p&p seems to be top of the range in terms on input output etc is there any reason people go ecu master? basically i am 99% on p&p link mx5 nb but part of me want to hear re both standalone link and any benefit and also ecu master thanks

I spent sometime on my e36 to ensure base timing is in sync before i map it and need some help understanding the link ecu and concept of ignition delay i put a white pen marker on my front crank pully which has designaed cut showing the 0 degree timing and also on the block. with timing light it is offset of -323 and it is spot on all the way to 5000rpm. I tried -323 or -324 and do see it move back and forth so confident -323 is right now on ignition delay, I read the help multiple times and don’t understand it. it is set to 115 ms on e36 default map and whether i set it to 0 or 150 no change to timing mark all the way to 5k i settled with 20ms just i guess it wasn’t 0. Can anyone give me layman term of what I need to do and whether 20 is acceptable? No time drift at all with 0 or 20 or 150 i tried so don’t get the concept