Stranger24

Hey guys i managed to sort this both temp and pressure connected to an volt and it is now reading within1-2 degree / psi of the gauge and I am ok with this when I used the an temp, it won’t work as I guess the gauge has resistor and an temp 3 and 4 have a 1k fixed resistor so it switches the gauge off . i guess only way to wire my fuel pressure and exhaust temp is to use more an volt and send ecu to link to solder the extra pins for me

Makes sense thank you. i know understand, prob when I change the pull up resister value it changes value because of what is used on the gauge and me thinking it is ecu thanks again

Thanks so using screenshot below where I see an temp 3 has resistor set to 1 and not able to change, that is pull up resistor by euc? Re an volt, I also think the ecu provides the pull up resistor as when I change the value from 1 to 10k etc , it continued to work and values would change. in an volt are you stating the pull up resistor has no impact if there is no resistor on the wire? my experience is otherwise with an volt, I select diffrent resistor values and it changes the value displayed for oil temp when plugged into an volt 4

I invested £650 in gauges , yep you right. Got it to work at the end but trial and error to work out the table could someone help me understand what is the difference between an temp and an volt on expansion loom? an temp expect ohm and an volt, voltage?

On e36 I am using the head of the filter which can take two sensors https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203909902316?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=mKGGNTToRYu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY probably can buy splitter or ... but things gets complicated alternative is get rid of all gauges, buy sensors and then read it on a dash like real dash I guess

Thanks issue is I have only two sensor so either have to let gauge go and just wire to ecu or use gauge and tap into it you right ground is chassis and I am Fairly new to efi tuning etc so I guess based on what you said if I try and get around accurate value still not worth it with ground being on chassis?

I don’t have calibration table for that sensor. Tried with I think 4600 ohm which is 20 degree. Maybe it is wrong

Thanks Adam i have an oil and oil pressure which I am trying to get read by the ecu. the sensors are part of my prosport premium gauge i am tapping into the signal wire and connecting it to the expansion loom temp 3 which didn’t work then I connected it to an volt 4 and used calibration table and that seems to work however I need to find the value of resistance to temp so value can be accurate switching pull off resistor seems to make matter worse and it shows a very hight number, using 1k it shows ok and 10k more reasonable number i hope I am making sense i don’t know wha is the use of ground and 5v+ on the ecu so hoping I can het some clarification. the sensors are two wires so npt I think they called , one ground and one signal so part of me thought I don’t need to connect the ground and 5v on the expansion loom

I have a G4x plugin for my e36. I am trying to add a temp sensor for water and oil which output using ohm rather than volt to an temp 3 and and temp4 . I see and believe they only support volt output, am I right?

Hi Guys, Can you please share knock monitor you are using , trying to monitor knock whilst doing the ignition table on road. I have seen link knock but seems expensive/prepared to buy though there is then plex which is pricy at around 1k and there is phormula ( uk made ones) which are reasonable but no data logging which link offers

yep

I would say so, have vacume line with no tapping direct to the ecu and can see it is reading values from engine

I have started the car and it is stable. used timing gun and locked it to 0 degree. for anyone who may see this in future, e36 bmw have timing mark on 0 degree or tdc. I used paint marker on harmonic damper and also the aluminuim casing which has a mark on tdc. I then used an inline spark tested and worked out the base -328 set by link should be -324 and set ignition delay to 80s/was stable I don't have an AFR installed yet and trying to see what is the best number for my master fuel as car is running extremly rich. I changed the current 20 ms master fuel to 10 ms and instantly car started to run better. @Adamw I have seen another post you had back in 2018 on what is the best number for master fuel however don't have AFR. Is there any thought on best way of calculating the master fuel ms value whilst installing AFR?

Chaps, I have another car which has link G4 and number of inputs from prosport including fuel pressure, oil temp, oil pressure, afr( AEM) . If I recall correctly the wire which is the signal has been taped into by the ecu expansion loom. speaking to prosport, they said this is not supported/shouldn't be done. This work was done by a garage which tuned/dynoed my car. I am about to do the same for my e36, what are you thoughts?

Ok have spent most of today on the car and started it. I have purchased a spark in-line tester to see if ecu ref timing currently at -328 is correct as car doesn't run well. there are no mark on m50 however tdc has a mark so should be able to know when it is at 0 degree. does the trigger scope attached look normal to you? I applied filtering from level1 to 4 with no impact. if you press the accelerator, it does rev ok / no issues however if you press slowly, it hangs on 2k roughly like a redline limit. I am thinking that is what the base map is really, now i need to start tuning it after I am confident the timing is right. I have read this post re timing/ didnt help https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/setting-base-timing-bmw-m50m52 Tigger 2 set to all.llgx

yes there is a vaccume line from behind the throttle body to the map. re ect, does it use Celcius or F? how can I adjust the units? As I type, I am reading the legnthy manuals and excited to get this running here is the ecu stats suggesting map is working but investigating why limit was reach 1.5k times

thanks Adam. Issue was fuel pump relay, I fixed it and now car starts. It is extremly rough, I am new to link and took a log to try and workout what is wrong . I noticed it is not reading oil temp, water temp and map seems to be consistent/ doesn't move much . I caliberated the map and tps. I think I need to disable maf sensor as it might be using that somewhere I guess. base map and log file attached. Now trigger scope looks ok to me, what do you think ? log E36 first start.llgx E36 Base.pclx

Great thanks, I think I understand now. I appreciate your explanation oscilloscope data is generally instant what confused me re trigger scope capture was, first it wasn't instant, you click on capture and nothing happens for 5-6 sec into engine cranking so it seems that is normal secondly i would at times no press capture thinking it will show the graph but it seems there some sort of short memory in the trigger which once you press capture is activated and capture 1-2 sec and deactivates, is that correct? So if you cranking 15 sec, it is only showing 1-2 sec on the graph. trying to clarify everything so hopefully can start in am( 6 hours from now) and figure out the issue. So here are some questions: re base map, do you know why link has multitooth . I guess based on what you explained earlier m52 won't work but then it makes me wonder why link has m52 when they don't make any plug in ecu's for it other question is do you have any thought on whether i should select rising, falling or all for the sensor? as I can see it reads the engine rom so that should mean crank sensor i working re base timing map, haven't touch it and it seems it is locker/ you can't modify when you select bmw m52 for the trigger setup

It is m50b25 vanos loom, the sensors look identical so does the wheel, oy m52 was plastic housing and m50 had metal housing around the sensor sure will capture rest in am and post back is trigger scope generally unresponsive? Seems very slow if i crank but don't click capture, will it still show the graph?

I did and didn’t, regardless didn’t seem to respond. Checked my laptop and utilisation was quite low on my laptop should you start cranking and then press capture? re fuel pump, any thoughts?

Hi All, setting up my first link from sratch. a bit of background The car is BMW 1998 M52 Engine which is the EU Spec with alluminium block. The standard ECU is the Siemens MS41. Link plug in won't work with it as it is suitable for M50 with Bosch MS3 ECU so I bought the loom I swapped the loom, water temp sensor from M50 block, Crank and Camshaft sensor from M50 block and car won't start. I have loaded the base map for G4x and can see it selects the multitooth for trigger and doesn't have anything for M50, very strange as they have one for M52! I have tried changing the trigger to M52 and still no luck. So far: ecu enabled Tested individual injectors and can hear them clicking . Tested via link Tested individual coil and can hear them clicking. tested via link FUel pump is on AUX8, when I trun the key on, no sound and also when I test no sound as if no fuel is delivered Trigger was on what came with base map (multitooth) and then changed to m52. Sensors are three pin both so should be hall effect and have tested with pull up resistor on and off as well as raising and failing edge Trigger scope is extremly slow and unresponsive, is it going to show live data once you press capture? I have attached few screenshots . What do you think is the issue? Trigger scope certainly doesn't look right.