Blue

Another update, I think my problem is the wiring block "A" that goes to the ECU. If I give it a little wiggle the engine cuts out, if I unplug and reconnect it, I don't have any misfires for a few miles, once I hit a some bumps, the misfire returns to cylinder number 4. This also seems to be why I was having a problem with my MAP sensor a few days ago. Does the rate at which the blue LED light flashes on the ECU mean anything if that changes?

I just fitted some new plugs gapped to 0.58mm and took it out for a drive, it ran great for about 5 minutes and then started to misfire again. Attached is a log once it started to misfire. I pulled the plugs and it is cylinder number 4 again, its black and covered in petrol. My guess is a wiring fault, seeing as I already tried swapping coils around and the issue remains on cylinder number 4? PC Datalog - 2024-04-6 5;22;59 pm.llgx

Can someone please have a look at my tune and my log to see if there is some obvious reason why I am constantly plagued by misfires and fouling plugs? It seems to be on cylinder number 4 most of the time and when I remove the spark plug is black and wet with petrol. I tried swapping the coil with cylinder number one and plug 4 still gets wet and dirty. I have tried various spark plug gaps and spark plug temps to try and solve this, but I think it is either the tune or something else going on. The smallest spark plug gap I have tried has been 0.58mm and the largest has been 0.70mm. When I am lucky enough to drive the car for a period of time without a misfire, it runs great except for a small misfire or hesitation high up in the rev range. The log attached is once it started to misfire and just a run around the block. I need to get a log from a cold start as I wonder if it's running too rich during cold start and that compounds the problem. link_pro_dash.pclx PC Datalog - 2024-04-6 3;14;29 pm.llgx

I thought I would check the connector on the MAP sensor and I wiggled the wiring block that goes to the ECU, I then tried to start the engine and it fired up and stayed running. It must be a lose pin either at the ECU or the MAP sensor. It's too late to run the engine and post a new log, one of my neighbours already hates me for my car being (in his opinion) too loud. I will post a log tomorrow morning.

Thanks Adam. None of the wiring has changed on my loom, chances are the MAP sensor is bad and will need replacing. I have the standalone Link 4 Bar MAP sensor, perhaps its time to try a new one. This one is less than a year old. Is there anyway to test a MAP sensor to see if its bad? Are there any other brands of 4 bar MAP sensors I can get here in the US from an auto parts store that would work?

I just installed Power Tune digital dash and their tech support remotely set it up for me. The dash works fine and so did the engine when I first fired it up. The second time I went to fire up the engine, it would cut out after 2 seconds, the only way to keep it running is blipping the throttle (like an old car on carbs). I tried loading a copy of my tune from before the Power Tune dash was installed and still the same result of the engine cutting out. So it can't be any changes made by the tech support from Power Tune Dash. I have tried recalibrating the TPS, checking that all of my wiring and engine sensors are plugged in and still having issues. Attached is a copy of the tune along with 2 different logs, one log is of the engine starting and running for 2 seconds and the other is running for longer by blipping the throttle pedal. When I looked at the logs, I saw the MAP reading remained the same when blipping the throttle, should that increase just a little even when just revving the engine? I appreciate any help to solve this. link_pro_dash.pclx PC Datalog - 2024-03-26 3;36;56 pm.llgx PC Datalog - 2024-04-3 4_13_02 pm.llgx

That tune worked, I got the car out for a quick drive, didn't have any boost which is something else I need to figure out, got any ideas? Plan is to get it set up by my local race shop on their dyno in about 3 weeks. Thanks again Adam

I was just comparing the two tunes and now I see what you are saying about the changes you have made. I am learning my way around this software and getting a better understanding of the basics required by an engine. Thank you for your help. I will give an update later today.

thanks Adam It has 1000cc injectors

Thanks for the reply, what should I have for min clamp? Max is set at 35%, should I leave it at that?

I can't get my TPS below 10.4% or 10.6%. I have tried calibrating TPS and APS many times. Using XPD-2832-811-214-911-00 TPS on a Tilton 600 Series pedal box. I only need to move the throttle less than 2cm to go from 10.6% to 100%. Attached is the log and the tune, _PC Datalog - 2023-04-25 1;36;56 pm.llgx _4_25-2023.pclx