Issa_dsm

Hey Adam, I was able to access the menu shortly after the device boots up, when I was trying it initially it was when the vehicle was running, date and time is correct now! the only other thing I need some assistance on is getting some other channels logging in the ecu stream

Ah okay! so something like RF wheel with the same digital input DI 3? Then I assume I pick one of the ecu speeds in RS3. One more thing and it's the clock/ time of day showing incorrectly, the Aim manual says it can be changed by hitting the menu button on the dash but mine seems to do nothing, is that something I can adjust in RS3? Thanks!

Another issue I seem to be having is the vehicle speed isn’t transmitting to the dash, it works in the ecu fine but ecu speed 1-4 on the dash isn’t picking up any speed, on the ecu side of things it’s on gp speed, digital input 3

Hello everyone, Im looking to configure my AiM dash a bit more to suit my configuration but i'm not having much luck finding a way to do so. I'm currently using CAN_BUS_BASE_LLC and a lot of the channels in the config won't be used but I would like to add: AN Volt 5, AN Volt 6, AN Volt 7, AN volt8 AN Temp 3, AN Temp 4 I have unchecked the values I won't be using Here is my current config and calibration file, thanks! Dash test.pclx TEST.zconfig

Yes I will remove the ecu today and get some pictures of the back for you

Yes I double checked both I have continuity on my chassis ground on one pin and continuity to my knock 1 pin from the knock sensor plug. I also checked to see if one pin is grounded but that isn’t the case. Could it be a dead/bad sensor? It’s a 4g63 so the m8 hole needed to be enlarged to 10mm but from what I’ve read on other sources that hasn’t caused issue

I checked one of the pins and it does go to chassis ground, I checked multiple areas and it has continuity. Does polarity matter in this case? This is the sensor I’m using and the connector

Yes I will check the connector and verify if I have a good ground, I will report back.

The file attached isn’t updated but I have changed everything to correct that on my end, I will send an updated file The factory signal wire is attached to a flying lead harness link added, and the other side was hooked up hooked up to pin 9 but I have swapped it to knock 1 that link added for me the white wire from pin 9 is wired into knock 1 on this harness currently

Thanks adam, I have zeroed out my blend tables up until 20% ethanol content so I believe I shouldn't have any influence on fueling at this time. As for fuel temp reading I have changed the active edge from falling to rising, is that correct? Currently my VE is around 72-76% at wot but now I suspect the fuel temp change and charge temp approximation table will help with that.. IF the values are still too low would I change overall injector size to reduce overall fueling to get my WOT numbers ~100%+? or do I mess with injector deadtimes? As for the knock sensor I sent my ecu in for a knock pin to be added, its a bosch donut style knock sensor hooked up to the factory harness and then tapped to the KNOCK1 pin on my expansion harness, I suspected there being an issue only due to how quiet it is and essentially the gain is cranked. is there another way its supposed to be wired? Thanks adam.

Hello all, Im looking for some advice on some things in my calibration.. Mainly my knock values and my lower than normal VE table. The vehicle is an automatic 90 GSX Im mainly concerned with my knock values and am wondering if this is real knock or if its just getting noisy as boost increases. If you look at the log it rises and falls in an odd way (id assume it would steadily increase as rpms increase) but it peaks right around peak boost/ cylinder pressure and tapers off as redline increases. maybe ignition timing is too aggressive in that area and its real? im not so sure until I retest with lower ignition timing values. My other concern is the lower values in my VE table in Modelled Multi-fuel. It hits my targets fine but i feel as though the valves should be closer to 100% if not slightly more? Maybe Im overthinking it but im not so sure. Thank you for the input! Other then those 2 things it feels good am going to be transitioning to ethanol very soon but I wanted to get the 91 octane side of things taken care of first. 2 wot pulls and some driving.llgx2 wot pulls and some driving.llgx2 wot pulls and some driving.llgx2 wot pulls and some driving.llgx BRANDON 1G GETTING SAFETIES SETUP AND FINALIZING 91OCT TUNE.pclx 2 wot pulls and some driving.llgx

No unfortunately no can bus, it’s a pretty simple box with a few inputs for rpm, tps and vehicle speed to control the trans, in the software I can calibrate it and also reverse the signal if needed but I wanted to see if it was okay to splice the throttle body for my 0-5v signal

Hello I am looking to run an e throttle from an Evo x however I am needing a tps signal out to a standalone TCU to control my auto trans, is this possible? Can I just tap off tps main?

Hey there! Just recently got a G4x for my 1g and would like to get the information to get the knock sensor wired up in the ecu, thanks!

Hello all, I purchased a link ecu from a dsm member who had initially purchased it from someone new however this was back in 2021 and the original seller can’t find the unlock code so I’m now left at a dead end. I’m hoping to either obtain the unlock code from the dealer or hope that someone from link could potentially help? My main concern is I don’t know who originally is the dealer for this ecu so I don’t know who to contact.. Link PN:223-4003 TE/PN:7-1866810-1 Date: 26 march 2021 TE shop Order:200223078347 serial number on box:109212