Steve

yes

Have you tried to hook it up to a different output? like aux 8 or something. Could be some bug sor something. Also, are you getting RPM reading and "yes" on both triggers when cranking?

I pressume you are trying to use AUX 1 as fuelpump? The one set to "test" in the PCL? I see that you ALSO have ignition drive 3 set up for fuel pump. You can only have one output designated to this so you need to switch that one off..

Unnless its fixed this forum wont let us post a pcl file extension. But you can attach it as a zip file. Or use a file host service.

Post your pcl and let us have a look

Just remember that if the car was previously tuned 9 degrees retarded, and you now advanced it 9 degrees your timingmap is now 9 degrees advanced all over. Also under WOT. 9 degrees advanced under high loads is alot and you need a retune.

Do you use some kind of loop on the coilwiring to hook up your light, or are you hooking up a sparkplug wire between the coil and plug? You should do the later as a "loop" usually is highly inaccurate.

Do you have a log from your old triggersetup also?

You could try rising on the cam. Probably wont make a difference anyway. It doesnt matter if it hits tdc with the crank as long as it doesnt start triggering on the wrong side of a crank thooth. Im in Norway so not far of time vise then.

Does it in your mind feel any different now that you got it running with the new triggers? Where are you located? UK? We seem to be awake at roughly the same hours.

Glad to hear. Now to the dyno! :-) Set both to falling.

Probably a software only update cause of all the problems discovered lately with the last update. Firmware is most likely the same.

That should explain alot mate.. I was thinking about sensor-thooth distance, but figured the ross kit isnt adjustable (?) so scraped that idea. Thanks Scott, glad you are with us :-)

Yes leading is rising. Difference is rising is when the thooth "hit" the sensor, and fallinf is when the thooth is "leaving" the sensor. EDIT: I also see that the parameters "trigger signal" on both triggers turns from "yes" to "no" there for a little while. If this is because of the trigger errors its counting or for some other reason i dont know SCOTT! where are you?

No point trying two different theeth. If you are sure its between theeth thats good enough for me. If changing to rising doesnt do anything then maybe you need to look at wiring again. Maybe drag new wires inside the car directly from the sensors to the ECU. Shielded wires!

Well you do have trigger errors climbing at that point. Make sure your cam triggers between two cranktheeth. Dont mind TDC or BDC or anything like that. Thats not relevant. Just make sure it triggers between two crank theeth. You can also try to set "trig 2 edge" to rising instead of falling and see if it helps Your coil dwell times also seems low to me. Check that they are set correctly for your coils. (Google maybe)

Do a pc log where you log everything. your mechanical timing is most likely different up top now that you have stable timing. Might have something to do with it. Could be a limiter kicking in. A log should reveal alot. Post one along with your pcl and lets have a look.. Personaly ill hit the bed now and wont be back until tomorrow night after work, but someone else might have a look in the meantime.

Highly doubt it. Remember it only tells the crank to start counting. As long as its not set so that it starts counting on the wrong thooth due to scatter, cam trigger have nothing to do with it. Any big jumps in your timing map at that point? You should make some logs and see if anything stands out

Exelent! Love when things work out... Report back with results ;-)

Did you do the timing delay adjustment? Ie adjust it so that timing doesnt drift when you rev it.

You can run any sensor you like as long as data for that sensor can be found. If it isn't listed in the dropdown menu then you need the correct data for your particular sensor. Google will probably be your best friend in that regard. Or testing...

No problem. Hope you get it sorted and up and running

Yes. Remember the camsenosrs ONLY job now is to tell the ecu when cyl one is about to come up for business. Thats it. The Crank is doing all the triggering duties now

You have 12 theeth on the crank. Adjust so that the cam triggers in between two of them. Doesnt matter wich ones. Jst make sure you recalibrate in case you actually changed wich theeth the cam triggers between

Your last q first. This is important cause.. well try to follow me here. What happens with your setup is this.. When the CAM synksignal fires it tells the ECU that, HEY Cylinder ONE is coming up for a spark. Start counting theeth on the CRANK and fire when ready! Now when it have counted (say 5 is the correct count at this particular spark event) its crank theet it triggers the spark.... Now, IF you have the cam synk triggering very close to a crank thooth you potentially have a problem due to the fact that the cam trigger is hooked up to the crank via a timingbelt. The same belt and system that made you get the ROSS kit in the first place cause of timing scatter. The camsynk signal STILL scatters as before so there is a possibility that the cam triggers on the WRONG side of the thooth the CRANK was supposed to start counting from. If this happens your timing will be (360/12=) 30 degrees wrong. Wich is bad. If you had a triggerwheel with a missing thooth this would not be an issue though... About the millisecond thing. Press on the setting and hit F1. It should give a good explenation on how it works EDIT: No that wont work. Go to the ignition main page and hit ignition delay then F!