shrug
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Posts posted by shrug
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Surely someone that’s works at link knows how the firing works on a g1 rotary ecu and if it’ll work on normal piston engines with a matched trigger pattern?
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If I matched the trigger pattern could it be used on a 4 cylinder? Or does it fire ignition odd for rotary?
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Just curious as to why you bother sending ecu’s out locked when tech doesn’t even bother replying after well over a week so a stolen ecu could be flagged so it can’t be used and no one would release the code for it or unlock it and if possible return my ecu!!
lol 3k ecu that apparently would of been better spent on a brand that atleast bothers to reply to make use of a ‘security’ feature that seems like it’s nothing more than a sales gimmick considering they don’t even give a crap enough to reply.
been using, installing and tuning link for years but by the looks of this amazing customer service I’ll be taking my money, my customers money and my loyalty elsewhere with a hella sour taste.
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If one was to use a wrx 104/7 plugin ecu and repin to suit bl/p legacy is the canbus information available for the rest of the modules to be happy / the dash cluster to work? the ecu plug is the same 4 pin plug
Or is it better off going the kurofune piggyback route and using thre stock ecu for cluster and fans etc?
Just now, shrug said:If one was to use a wrx 104/7 plugin ecu and repin to suit bl/p legacy is the canbus information available for the rest of the modules to be happy / the dash cluster to work? the ecu plug is the same 4 pin plug
Or is it better off going the kurofune piggyback route and using thre stock ecu for cluster and fans etc?
also is either ecu capable of controlling the quad avcs?
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Are there any other reasons this would happen?
apparently it shouldn’t be that cause codes have been generated for ecu’s sold since that one code was requested.
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Oh weird. Some how I haven’t seen the reply.
Thank you.
He thought was a odd message as had never got it before, I’ll let him know that’s most likely the issue.
Was thinking it was gunna be a issue with the ecu or something.
Hopefully whatever it is can be sorted out soon so this car can stop sitting here dead taking up space. -
Anyone?
Or is it just a useless paperweight cause no one knows what it needs even apparently the people that make it
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I’ve Got a customer’s car here and the unlock code won’t generate for it when the dealer tries too.
says on the Website “You need a higher permission for custom record Type ecu unlock”it’s a g4x storm wire in
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Thank you.
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Okay how do I do that? I’ve just got back to chch.
I discovered last night though that having it on charge with the USB almost doubles the volume of it.
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Yes it’s a g4+ Knock block.
yeah it’s defiantly not uncomfortable at full volume it’s a struggle to hear it most of the time.
tried both cords and a longer one I made myself, used both sensors and even a jecs knock sensors
it seems to pick up a lot of electrical noise too what I’m guessing is unavoidable and just part of life.
I would appreciate being able to have it checked since it’s had limited use and been like that since day 1.
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With normal 3 pole headphones it is still extremely quiet, have tried multiple sets of headphones.
been like that since I bought it, like I struggle to hear it over the car / noise it surroundings.
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Are g4+ knock link usually pretty quiet?
like hard to even hear? and is it normal for headphones with microphones on them like iPhone etc to not work?
seems odd since they work in every other type of normal style headphone jack and my preferred headphones being able put them under ear muffs etc.
it’s been the same every since I bought it so it isn’t a issue that’s just started and has been like that since day one.
Thanks
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Yeah the only issue with that is that’s about all they are worth these days, can buy them for $150-200 so trying to avoid having to do that.
I’m assuming it’s one of the transistors that’s failed being the switched / amplified part and the ecu having one already replaced so would rather just know what ones are related to the coil drives.
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I’ve resoldered the whole board since I have fixed a few like that and it now has injector pulse although it could be a car issue that one since I tried the ecu in another car cause it was closer than the one it’s meant to be in. The ecu turns on and primes pump, kicks it back in well cranking, has rpm signal, tps n ect etc but just won’t fire the coils
In that car the ecu still has the coils constantly charging over heating them, Occasionally when key comes in you get the normal hasn’t started for abit possumlink backfire but apart from that seems to do not much.
With a noid light there is some pulse there what’s the weird thing what’s making me thinks it’s a failed diode or transistor or something not letting them discharge enough or something
I’m not genius enough to know how a ecu sends its signals etc to everything to know where to start although I can trace the coil drives back along the board I don’t know how each one of the components tells each one to do what so thought a diagram of it might make it a little easier next to just replacing it all along the coil drives.
this test car was a daily driven stock ecu car.
would like to keep another possumlink alive in the wild, like seeing where it all started and they are good for people learning the basics of ecu tuning having only 3 basic tables to them to get their heads around.
I still deal with them relatively often. -
Yep, it shows 1-200rpm cranking, tps voltage works etc.
And pulses a noid light just not the injectors or coils.
coils and injectors both had power, car was running on a g4 plugin previously.
it’s like it’s keeping signal to the coils open cause the coils get hot and the signal shows a constant 12v
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Hi I’m wondering if anyone could help me with a diagram / the technical drawings for a possumlink for v1/2 wrx please, ecu has been repaired before so not wanting to tip more money into it but rather have a go at making it keep running the car for awhile.
ecu has constant power out on ignition drives and seems to have a pulse with a noid light but not actually fire the coils or injectors but has its normal one click fire that possumlink does when key comes on.
even if anyone on the picture could point to what runs the ignition on them on the board.
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Thank you.
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The onboard 2.5bar map is having issues and wanting to read slightly below atmospheric and not calibrating on one of my storms, from memory key on voltage was 1.68v so assuming the sensor is dying and throwing off the calibration.
Want to upgrade it to a 4bar will I have any issues using part number ‘MPX4400AP’?
Thanks
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I’ll go with that, much appreciate your help.
4-6 cylinders are my thing so v8’s are new ground to be wiring.
Thought it was better to ask and do it once than change it assuming.
Thank you again.
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So would you suggest
inj 1, 1-5
inj 2, 2-6
inj 3, 7-3
inj 4, 8-4
appreciate your input, thank you.
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I’ve never touched a v8 with this firing order so checking I wire the wasted setup ls coils correct, with the firing order being 1,2,7,8,4,5,6,3 I wire as?
drive 1, 1-4
drive 2, 2-5
drive 3, 7-6
drive 4, 8-3
also with injectors do I use the normal v8 pairing of injectors like a 1uz or the likes to run sequential injection or just use the same pairing as above?
Sorry v8’s aren’t really my forte but doing this one as a favour so looking for a little guidance on the pairing since it’s a older g4+ storm with 4 drives.
Thanks all.
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As above, set high error to 5v and low error to 0v
only way I’ve been able to combat the error from aem / innovate gauges.
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here's the file from the ecu and a log of launch control
Actually lost all respect!
in G4x
Posted
Seems asking anything on here these days has become about as helpful and useless as the ‘locked’ ecu status to protect against stolen ecu’s being used.
Would help if tech ever bothered to multiple support forms to have it flagged and stop anyone generating the unlock for it, if the 4 others that where taken couldn’t hve anything done about it could of atleast stopped the brand new locked ecu and had a chance of return instead of a 3k ecu getting handed to the theif cause link can’t be assed to bother replying about flagging it as stolen.
Thanks Link!! Perfect way to send a loyal customer of over 10 years sour against a brand that they’ve literally generated you’s stupid amounts of money over the years between the ecu’s for customer and all my personal cars used to run link and liked supporting a company that’s literally down the road, hard pill to swallow when they good enough to take your money but don’t value the customer enough to bother replying to try help make sure the what I’m sure the whole point of ecu being sent out ‘locked’ is to stop it being used in case of theft.
looks like my money will be spent replacing them exploring other options from other companies than the place that pretty much said get f***ed kick dirt like it’s just .5% of the stuff stolen but 3k in anyones world is still a decent amount of money even if it didn’t lead to recovery atleast someone ain’t using it after steeling it or or it being sold to someone for peanuts ignoring it’s clearly stolen using it well the company pretty much hands it to them, kinda rubs one up the wrong way l when the basic so called protections become a joke after having close to 150k of stuff stolen from a storage facility.