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Everything posted by 007

  1. I'm definitely now going to crunch the car on any speed breakers. LOL. Thanks for the information though. *If* this happens the next time and I'm in a position to have the car towed straight back to the shop, I'll try to hunt for the short. Just wanted to make sure that this is usual behaviour under the circumstances and the ECU is fine. Thanks Adam!
  2. There's a bit of background I need to establish here, so apologies if this is slightly long. I was hooning around one night as usual and on the way back, ran into a couple of extremely lousy speed bumps in quick succession. If sounded like the downpipe and / or oil sump bore the brunt of the blows. After the second hit, I noticed my CEL and oil pressure warning light come on, and the engine died. When I broke out my laptop and connected to the ECU, imagine my surprise when every single sensor was spazzing out. Even the ECU temp read -12C, which it pretty much impossible. The root cau
  3. 007

    Fuel table max VE

    Another related question: if I've wired a fuel temp sensor to the ECU, is the density change automatically accounted for by the fuel model or do I need to set up a separate table for this? I ask because the block diagram in the help file did not seem to show a fuel temp input like it did for fuel pressure.
  4. 007

    Fuel table max VE

    Thanks Adam. I think I understand. I was equating VE with cylinder filling. Per your explanation, VE for the most part - especially in boost - should be 100% or thereabouts, right?
  5. 007

    Fuel table max VE

    Hi. I was curious about the reason why the max VE value in the fuel tables maxes out at 150. Wouldn't higher numbers be required for higher boost levels?
  6. Ended up using a relay.
  7. Thanks for the clarification Adam. I understand the warranty implications. Both my eThrottle outputs are free, and since you confirmed that they have active current limitation, I'll try combining the two of them.
  8. Thanks Adam. What do you think of: 1. Using two combined injector outpputs and configuring them identically. 2. Using one of the eThrottle motor outputs. Also, from what I gather, both the above outputs are over current protected, right? Meaning I should be able to experiment without frying something in the ECU?
  9. That would be Ignition output. Injector outs can deliver a max peak current of 10A. I'm just not sure if they can hold 7A continuously. I reckon eThrottle outputs could support this. Thanks! This looks interesting. However, it looks like the PMU is handling power in your case while the Link only provides a control signal. The pump I intend to use is a simple 2 pin affair that will kick on when a certain condition is true and remain that way.
  10. Hi. As the title says, I'm planning to use a G4+ Thunder to drive a water pump in a W2A system. The pump I plan to use is one from a BMW M2C, and per the documentation, it draws 6-7 amp. Now I could wire a relay and get it over with, but in the interest of keeping things clean and simple I was wondering if I could wire it up directly to the ECU. I reckon an INJ or IGN output could be used for this purpose. Can somebody confirm? In case 6-7 amp is too high for a single output, could I join two of them together to supply the required current? Thanks in advance.
  11. Thank you. I'll try this with the pull up resistor. The other method didn't seem to work.
  12. Thank you. I'm located in India, but should be able to find some time when the car isn't going to be used and ship the ECU over.
  13. 007

    Honda CAN protocol

    The only info from the ECU they expect are RPM and VSS. The HDS scanner also expects a repeating VIN frame to be able to connect. Because no other modules are touched, they remain happy and chatty as usual. There are two major issues here 1. the cluster expects a speedo pulse from the ECU once every 10 meters to keep the odo ticking 2. The last byte of each frame is like a checksum, which must be valid, or the cluster rejects the entire frame and everything goes haywire. I've managed to figure out enough of the logic to have the Macchina compute this byte and keep th
  14. Hello. I've spent a considerable amount of time analyzing the CAN data for a Civic FD2 in order to retain the stock cluster functionality. Now I can operate it with a G4+ Thunder and without requiring the stock ECU to be present on the CAN bus. There are some quirks of the Honda protocol that cannot be defined using CAN Manager, so I use CAN Manager to put the bulk of the data on the bus, pick it up with a Macchina M2, do the required transformation and retransmit. I was wondering if you would be Keen to incorporate this logic into the Thunder directly. This will hold good for a lot
  15. Thank you for the response Simon. What you say makes sense, but do you reckon that the nice and round threshold at 55C is coincidental? I've disabled ECU Hold Power for now by using he same switched ignition output to A5 and C2. Would it be possible for the team there to recreate the issue in the lab by putting a Thunder under a hot air blower? I don't have another unit with me at the moment, or I'd have tested that one in the bench myself. In case there's a suspect joint, would it be worth the effort for me to take the case off and visually inspect the board?
  16. I haven't been able to find a way to generate a high side driven PWM output. I'd like to use this to implement alternator output control. Since the entire unit is grounded to the chassis, low side driven PWM isn't an option. Using GP Output and setting a threshold voltage causes the output to keep thrashing on and off, and makes the idle really lumpy and the lights flicker.
  17. It's been a while, but the build is finally alive once again, and this time, I have concrete information. The issue is most definitely with the ECU and not the wiring. There are no problems below ECU temp 55*C. When the temp crosses 55, the ignition signal input (pin C2) stops registering key off, and instead reads Active. When this was happening, I even snipped the wire going to C2 clean off and probed the voltage from the ECU, and it read 3V. I left things untouched and let the ECU cool down, with C2 still snipped off and the moment the temp dropped below 55, the ignition input cor
  18. After everything's been installed, there's hardly any room to fit even a pinky finger around the ECU. So I'll try to completely wrap it in heat reflective tape and have a tiny opening facing the firewall. I don't think a diagonal sheet will do much good once the hot air from the fan diffuses everywhere in the engine bay. Summer temps here nudge 50*C. Thanks for the confirmation Simon. I must compliment you guys on this ECU. Even above 80*C, it handled itself like a champ. I had previously installed a Haltech Elite 1500 in a similar position, and that thing would start going into
  19. Thank you for your response. To your points: The engine isn't self idling. The ECU isn't powering down. It isn't a sticky relay.I triple checked, and once when this was going on, pulled the relay clean off and the ECU still wouldn't power down. Pretty much impossible because the line that goes to the ECU's ignition signal pin is the only thing aforementioned relay controls. The low power side is wired to the ignition key, and the high power side to the ECU and nothing else. When I turn off the key, everything else in the the car that is on ignition power g
  20. Hello. I've been running a Thunder on a build I did recently. This ECU is installed in the engine bay like shown in the attached image. For the most part, the ECU doesn't seem to mind this at all but I did notice one glitch that would repeat consistently after some crawling through traffic. The ECU would not recognize the ignition key being turned off and would continue to idle the engine even after the key was removed. This doesn't happen when the engine bay is relatively cool. I haven't been able to identify the exact threshold past which this takes place, but I'd guess around 70*C ECU
  21. Hey Adam. The ABS module provides individual wheel speeds in a 8 byte frame. However, the speed displayed on the gauge and the odo tick information comes from the ECU utilizing input from the vehicle speed sensor mounted on the gearbox. I understand that it will take a lot of generic CAN functions to cover all possible OEM strategies, but in the meanwhile, would it not be possible to add a wheel revolution counter for either one or all four wheels, similar to the engine revolution counter that is already available? I feel that is a generic enough function for this purpose. I would re
  22. Hi. I'm going to be building a FD2 Civic with a K24 engine and a Link G4+ Thunder. I plan to drive the gauge cluster using the User Defined CAN feature. I've managed to figure out everything except a tiny detail related to the digital odometer. Honda sends an "odo tick" once every 10 meters to the cluster. This is a 1 byte value that counts up every tick and cycles back to 0 after 255 and repeats. Every 10 ticks, the cluster increments the odo by 0.1. I've searched all the available data items to send in a CAN frame and haven't found a speedo pulse count or anything I could use to enable
  23. Solved! Again, it was the default settings that did me in. The max and min clamps in the IACV settings were holding the commanded duty cycle back. The IACV works as I guessed before. Unpowered, the shutter is halfway open and that is where it returns to rest once any applied signal is removed. Grounding the IACVP pin rotates the shutter one way and grounding IACVN rotates it the other way. 50% duty cycle keeps the shutter at its default position. Anything above or below 50% either increases or decreases idle depending on how IACVP and IACVN are wired.
  24. I believe this IACV requires a PWM ground signal on both pins besides the +12V pin to move the shutter in opposite directions. Let me try to scope the stock ECU's control signals versus the Link and revert.
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