randolph
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Posts posted by randolph
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5 hours ago, Adamw said:
The first line of your post said "wrx link(04)". Aux 6 could be C11 or B33, this is controlled by the 3 pin jumper so you could also check at the middle pin of the 3 pin jumper.
Aux 8 is D13. Can you tell me the voltage on these aux pins with aux set to both off and Test (ON), with nothing else connected.
Adam, sorry about the descriptions,
i will check the exact voltage and get back.
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5 hours ago, Adamw said:
Aux6 could be pin B26 or B27 depending how your jumpers are set, have you checked both?
What voltage do you have on the aux 8 pin with the aux off and in Test mode, with nothing connected?
Adam,i think we are not talking about the same ecu, the ecu manual states the following pins for these two aux, i have also checked the pinout corresponding to 04-06 but for aux 8 it is not populated so it is definitely a 07.
aux 6 is on c11 for the 2007 sti. Jumpers are set for 2007. Aux 8 is d13,
(the ecu is:v10 06-07), maybe you thought of another model because i wrote the first part of the description of the compatibility on the manual that came with it.
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Hello guys,
got a g4+ wrx link(04) not switching aux 6 and 8.
was in the process of fitting twin fuel pumps (relay driven), and when testing the outputs it did not worked. (Tried it on low or high side already). Could this be that the drivers are dead, i have already ruled out wiring and relay.
i’ve attached pics of the board
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A/c control
in G4x
28 minutes ago, Adamw said:Mechanical dual pressure switches are pretty common for this type of application.
Anyhow, this should do something similar to what you ask. Im replying from a hotel room so havent tested this but it shouldnt be far off.
Set up your AC switch DI as a GP input. The GP output will use the on/off delay to do your 3min on, 30s off. Note however it will start with a 30s off period when you first turn the switch on, and when you turn the switch off it may continue to run for up to 3 mins. You can get around that by adding another GP output if it bothers you but try keeping it simple first. Then use the virtual aux as your AC request, this will allow the idle up and clutch delay etc to work correctly.
Adam,
i will this a go and update, thank you
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A/c control
in G4x
1 hour ago, DerekAE86 said:What inputs/outputs do you currently have setup for the AC system?
Typically an AC system will monitor a Low Pressure valve and a Thermister in addition to the Engine RPM.
When the AC button is pressed the Clutch will only engage if:
1) Engine is running
2) AC system has pressure
3) The system isn't getting too cold
Once it's at cooling capacity it will then regulate the temp monitored by the Thermister by cycling the Clutch on and off for a certain period.
Some older cars had an "Eco" mode for the AC which just increased the freqency/duration of that happening.
So to recreate the same AC control within the Link you'll need the Pressure Sensor/Switch, Thermister and Switch as inputs and the Clutch (Relay) as an output. After that you can easily create a Logic state to cycle the system accurately under the "AC Clutch Control" settings if you change the Mode to "Full".
Trying to do full AC control without a pressure or temp input isn't ideal because your cooling performance will change depending on the ambient conditions and you could damage your compressor if you lose gas pressure because you'd never know.I know it isn’t ideal but i have no analogue or digital inputs left on this ecu therefor want to get it to remain on for three minutes and off for 30 sec,(will play a bit with these period using the a/c pressure gauge to decide on this)
we are in a tropical country and the ambient does not fluctuate that much.
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A/c control
in G4x
Hi guys, using a monsoon x that has ran out of analogue.
i want to setup a strategy to leave the a/c on for 3min then of for 30 sec repeatedly when a/c switch is active in order to not overload the system.
can this be done using the timer and gp aux combined and if yes please do suggest some strategies that could work.
thanks
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Hello,
just installed a wrx11 plug-in on a 09 hatch sti that comes with the si system.
wondering if anyone have workout a configuration to get this feature to work with link.
i believe the button is connected via can to the oem(not sure).
if it can be made to work then i would setup the throttle target map,boost and possibly ign timing map to be altered with.
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4 hours ago, Adamw said:
We use Ign drives in many of our plug-in ecu's for hot-fed fan relays without issue. There is no back feed path to ground or to 12V through an ign drive when the ecu is off, it will be open collector.
next time i have the car i will triple check everything again, but just to note that the wiring on this car is still in oem form without any mods to it(rx8) , the fury is being used to control everything except the canbus which is being control by the oem one.
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Adam,
the fan is on ign6 already.
using a test light with ign 6 aux to one side and the other to batt+ the test light turns on when i switch the car off.
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Hello guys,
having a little issue with an oem wiring vehicle fitted with a g4x fury whereby the fan turns on when ignition is off, Before i go fix this in any other way i just want to know if all of the aux out on the g4x switches to ground when the ecu is powered off or is there specific aux(s) that completely disconnects the circuit when off.
thanks
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5 hours ago, Adamw said:
If you use the forum search to search "RX8" you should find one of my maps with most of the CAN working. That was not using the renesis engine though, we dont actually support the renesis well currently, they really need 3 stages of injection and a GP H-bridge function to control the motor on the aux ports.
Thanks Adam i will check, it’s ok regarding the engine as we are not using the same engine too. More interested in the can bus.
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Hi there,
happy new year to you all! Checking if any has done it yet, a complete startup base file for mazda rx8, with all can bus related ancillaries working etc.
tia
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Cyclic idle
in G4x
Ok guys, thanks for your enlightenment, i saw my mistake.
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Cyclic idle
in G4x
Hello Adam,
this could be something i’m doing wrong,
i’m having a bit of difficulty setting up cyclic idle, whereby the cyclic rpm limit is not behaving as it should, please check the attached file.the cyclic rpm limit is not activating properly when antilag is active, in runtime status the cyclic limit stays on 8000 although in the cyclic rpm limit it is 2000,
thank you
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5 hours ago, Adamw said:
You can wire a 1ohm 25W resistor between 12V and the OEM ecu coil drive pin to simulate it having an ign coil connected.
Thank you Adam, will get this done.
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13 minutes ago, Adamw said:
was the factory ECU driving the dumb coil directly, or did it have an ignitor?
13 minutes ago, Adamw said:was the factory ECU driving the dumb coil directly, or did it have an ignitor?
Not sure you got my last reply, the factory ecu is driving the coil directly,
although i have modified the wiring to use ignitor when it’s on link.
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20 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Do you not think the erratic idle is just because the oem ecu no longer has control of ignition timing? Typically for engines with E-throttle you need a lot of idle ignition control for good idle.
Adam, i did check the ign timing with obd scanning tool to verify if the ecu was playing with timing to keep idle sturdy but it seems not because it idles at 7btdc fix.(it would have been bouncing around a bit.( i did confirm this with a timing light too) and also it does this intermittently, for example it will go erratic for 40 sec, then goes ok for another 40 sec back and forth.
the only way left would be to mimic the coils to confirm, if you know a way that will help a lot.
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Hi guys, i need to fool a eom ecu into thinking it’s ignition coil is still present,
the coil is a dumb type. And the car is running a parallel ecu setup, whereby the g4x monsoon is controlling fuel and ignition, the oem is controlling e/throttle along with the other Basic functions, the problem is that when the coils is being driven by the monsoon(via igniters)for some reason the oem knows and gives out an erratic idle.
in the log i can actually see the tp-main moving, but on oem everything is fine. Thanks for the help.
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Hello guys,
got a vauxhall vxr 1.6 with engine:a16ler, has anyone get the can bus working or has anybody done piggybacking with link on them?
tia
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13 hours ago, Adamw said:
Try the most recent PC Link on the website, 6.22.38 is the current one. 6.22.25 would always say boot mode after an update even though ecu was running fine. Although Im not sure if that is what you are experiencing if it wont even connect.
Let me try this and get back.
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4 hours ago, Adamw said:
So after you do the firmware update and power cycle does the ecu no longer comer back online with PC link?
With .25 after it crashes the ecu does not come online, just gives out the message (ecu is in boot load mode, reinstall firmware again) i should have taken a pics of the screen for this but didn’t, if it is important for you to know the exact message let me know i can pull it out and do it one more time, btw i also did try with both jumper settings too although on bench that does not matter.
On 6/8/2022 at 11:32 PM, k4nnon said:
Did it this way and it worked but only with .24, simply does not work with .25
thanks
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3 hours ago, Adamw said:
Look for the large barrel shaped TVS diode near the header. Connect +12V to the stripped end and ground to the other end.
Here’s the update, it will only work and accept update .24 version, i’ve also tried the latest version .25 again after installing the .24 but it crashes still. All this done on bench with 13.5volts. I’m ok with the .24 anyways.
thanks for the support.
Alteza plug-in ecu to caldina
in G4x
Posted
Hi guys,
Got a customer with a caldina st215 and wants to go plug-in, the only closest one i can see is the alteza one which share the same plugs, has any one used the alteza plug in in the caldina st215? What was the major wiring modes?
tia