KP_JAMES

Hey Shushpants.
Could not get the IGF idea to work. I've ended up going to waste spark, freeing up 2 aux outputs so I can run a C.E.L and tacho on the 2 outputs. Having trouble with the tacho still. I've changed the resistor from a 46k to a 1k on the board for now to test it. Tacho does not work wired to the aux output alone, however it does work if I add another resistor, anywhere from 1k-56k in the loom on a 12v switched supply and into the tacho feed wire, also works if I simply add a relay instead of that resistor. I also tried plugging the factory ignitor back in and this makes the tacho sweep work fine also?
Currently: ECU aux output spliced into tacho wire--no go
                 ECU aux output spliced into tacho wire + relay pin 86 + 12v switched to 85 pin--works. Or instead of a relay just plug the factory ignitor back in works also

Sorted. Swapped tacho with FP on aux output and put FP on ign output, works with no pullup.

There are two further thoughts I will leave.
I know of at least one car locally that has caught fire due to the end blowing out of one of those sensors, luckily it was saved with minimal damage due to it happening on the dyno with plenty of extinguishers around, but it may not have been be so lucky if it happened on the road.  So perhaps you arent considering the cost of a failed sensor - it may just leave you stranded due to it failing and giving say a false oil pressure limit.  Sometimes when they fail they short the 5V rail so all sensors no longer work.  Or it could be as serious as loosing the car or engine.
The second factor is the tolerance of vibration.  I only really have experience with relatively harsh race engines so road car engines may be more forgiving, but most of the cheap sensors dont last very long if fitted direct to the engine - and I mean even the cheaper name brand ones such as honeywell px3.  Theses all need to be mounted remotely which if you add the cost of decent hose and fittings each end you are probably near the cost of a good sensor that will tolerate direct fitting.   
The only sensors I have have had little failures from when direct mounted:
Honeywell PX2.
Link/Variohm/Eurosensor
Bosch 0261230340 <this is my goto at the moment, decent price, temp sensor built in and have never had one fail.  Unfortunately the connectors arent that nice.
 

I will attach one that I have.  Note 3 wire push/pull type idle valves need to be connected to aux 1&2 so you will need to shuffle a couple of your pins around (they can be popped out of the connector easy).  Close signal is Aux 1 and Open signal is Aux 2.
 
 
G4+ Atom 4AGE 20V Stock NA startup.pclr

Inputs for this engine:
Digital Inputs
Start Position +12v (can connect throttle closed whenever it's supported by Link as an input for idle control) Analog Inputs
83420-20040 factory engine coolant temp sensor
Which Sensor Type should I use here? Factory inlet air temperature sensor
Which Sensor Type should I use here? Factory MAP sensor
Should I even use this?  I'm basing my tune off of TPS and using the built-in MAP sensor as a BAP "Equation load source".
If I do TPS tune, should I also use "No FP Correction"? Factory TPS sensor
Pretty sure I'll need to just spend a few minutes with a volt meter and get the right values, should be ok. If I need to calibrate these sensors, how do I associate a Cal Table with, e.g., the TP(Main) input?